computer economy chip

Is there such a thing as a computer upgrade chip for a 92 960 that
would increase fuel mileage? Even though it would reduce
acceleration.........

(E-Mail Removed) wrote:
> Is there such a thing as a computer upgrade chip for a 92 960 that
> would increase fuel mileage? Even though it would reduce
> acceleration.........


I doubt it, but the good news is you can get pretty much the same
result by increasing tire pressure to 10% below the max pressure listed
on the sidewalls, and accelerating gently. Also, don't run the A/C while
getting up to speed or climbing hills. Those changes should be good for
about 3-4mpg more, which is the most you could expect from a chip...

(E-Mail Removed) wrote:
> Is there such a thing as a computer upgrade chip for a 92 960 that
> would increase fuel mileage? Even though it would reduce
> acceleration.........


Not that I'm aware of, I've never seen a chip for an older Volvo, and
chips tend to be to improve economy.

A 960 is a really sweet ride, if you want economy, I'm sure you can find
someone to trade you a nice 940 for it, or if you can find a 740 with a
manual gearbox that will get you into the high 20s highway. 940 Turbo
has decent performance and still can manage 24 highway which is better
than the 960. All US 900 series are automatic which costs you several mpg.

Leftie wrote:
> (E-Mail Removed) wrote:
>> Is there such a thing as a computer upgrade chip for a 92 960 that
>> would increase fuel mileage? Even though it would reduce
>> acceleration.........
>
>
> I doubt it, but the good news is you can get pretty much the same
> result by increasing tire pressure to 10% below the max pressure
> listed on the sidewalls,

.... but don't brake or corner too hard in the wet!


and accelerating gently. Also, don't run the
> A/C while getting up to speed or climbing hills. Those changes should
> be good for about 3-4mpg more, which is the most you could expect
> from a chip...

Centre Parting wrote:
> Leftie wrote:
>> (E-Mail Removed) wrote:
>>> Is there such a thing as a computer upgrade chip for a 92 960 that
>>> would increase fuel mileage? Even though it would reduce
>>> acceleration.........
>>
>> I doubt it, but the good news is you can get pretty much the same
>> result by increasing tire pressure to 10% below the max pressure
>> listed on the sidewalls,
>
> ... but don't brake or corner too hard in the wet!


If you are running good (not even great, just "good") tires it
won't be a problem. If it seems a little too stiff, back off the
pressure one or two psi at a time.

>
>
> and accelerating gently. Also, don't run the
>> A/C while getting up to speed or climbing hills. Those changes should
>> be good for about 3-4mpg more, which is the most you could expect
>> from a chip...
>
>

Leftie wrote:
> Centre Parting wrote:
>> Leftie wrote:
>>> (E-Mail Removed) wrote:
>>>> Is there such a thing as a computer upgrade chip for a 92 960 that
>>>> would increase fuel mileage? Even though it would reduce
>>>> acceleration.........
>>>
>>> I doubt it, but the good news is you can get pretty much the same
>>> result by increasing tire pressure to 10% below the max pressure
>>> listed on the sidewalls,
>>
>> ... but don't brake or corner too hard in the wet!
>
>
> If you are running good (not even great, just "good") tires it
> won't be a problem. If it seems a little too stiff, back off the
> pressure one or two psi at a time.
>
>>

I have Goodyear F1 on the back of my 940 and had the pressure up at
+8psi for a long trip 80% loaded. After finishing the trip and going
back to normal loads I didn't reduce the pressure for a few days, the
back end does breakaway in the wet and you do lose grip, it is simple
physics, the economy goes up because the contact patch with the road is
reduced, you will end up wearing your tyres in the middle and have less
chance at avoiding unexpected obstacles. Not worth the risk IMO.

If you want economy this way then much better to fit the skinniest tyres
(correctly inflated) that will go on the rim, and you benefit from
reduced air resistance as well as rolling resistance.

Of course making sure the tyres are not under-inflated is important too.
--
Tony

Tony wrote:
> Leftie wrote:
>> Centre Parting wrote:
>>> Leftie wrote:
>>>> (E-Mail Removed) wrote:
>>>>> Is there such a thing as a computer upgrade chip for a 92 960 that
>>>>> would increase fuel mileage? Even though it would reduce
>>>>> acceleration.........
>>>>
>>>> I doubt it, but the good news is you can get pretty much the same
>>>> result by increasing tire pressure to 10% below the max pressure
>>>> listed on the sidewalls,
>>>
>>> ... but don't brake or corner too hard in the wet!
>>
>>
>> If you are running good (not even great, just "good") tires it
>> won't be a problem. If it seems a little too stiff, back off the
>> pressure one or two psi at a time.
>>
>>>
>
> I have Goodyear F1 on the back of my 940 and had the pressure up at
> +8psi for a long trip 80% loaded. After finishing the trip and going
> back to normal loads I didn't reduce the pressure for a few days, the
> back end does breakaway in the wet and you do lose grip, it is simple
> physics, the economy goes up because the contact patch with the road is
> reduced, you will end up wearing your tyres in the middle and have less
> chance at avoiding unexpected obstacles. Not worth the risk IMO.
>
> If you want economy this way then much better to fit the skinniest tyres
> (correctly inflated) that will go on the rim, and you benefit from
> reduced air resistance as well as rolling resistance.
>
> Of course making sure the tyres are not under-inflated is important too.
> --
> Tony


It's not quite that simple. The rolling resistance can be reduced
without reducing the size of the contact patch, by making the tire
stiffer - i.e. by increasing the pressure 10%. What is the Goodyear F1?
If it's a Summer tire that could well make it slippery - I wouldn't use
Summer tires for anything except racing on dry pavement. A good
all-season, with somewhat stickier rubber, should be fine running 38psi.

Postscript: I just looked, and the F1 is indeed a Summer radial.

Leftie wrote:
> Tony wrote:
>> Leftie wrote:
>>> Centre Parting wrote:
>>>> Leftie wrote:
>>>>> (E-Mail Removed) wrote:
>>>>>> Is there such a thing as a computer upgrade chip for a 92 960
>>>>>> that would increase fuel mileage? Even though it would reduce
>>>>>> acceleration.........
>>>>>
>>>>> I doubt it, but the good news is you can get pretty much the
>>>>> same result by increasing tire pressure to 10% below the max
>>>>> pressure listed on the sidewalls,
>>>>
>>>> ... but don't brake or corner too hard in the wet!
>>>
>>>
>>> If you are running good (not even great, just "good") tires it
>>> won't be a problem. If it seems a little too stiff, back off the
>>> pressure one or two psi at a time.
>>>
>>>>
>>
>> I have Goodyear F1 on the back of my 940 and had the pressure up at
>> +8psi for a long trip 80% loaded. After finishing the trip and going
>> back to normal loads I didn't reduce the pressure for a few days, the
>> back end does breakaway in the wet and you do lose grip, it is simple
>> physics, the economy goes up because the contact patch with the road
>> is reduced, you will end up wearing your tyres in the middle and
>> have less chance at avoiding unexpected obstacles. Not worth the
>> risk IMO. If you want economy this way then much better to fit the
>> skinniest
>> tyres (correctly inflated) that will go on the rim, and you benefit
>> from reduced air resistance as well as rolling resistance.
>>
>> Of course making sure the tyres are not under-inflated is important
>> too. --
>> Tony
>
>
> It's not quite that simple. The rolling resistance can be reduced
> without reducing the size of the contact patch, by making the tire
> stiffer - i.e. by increasing the pressure 10%. What is the Goodyear
> F1? If it's a Summer tire

With the greatest disrespect, not being a snow-tyre has nothing to do with
rain performance.
If Summer tyres weren't able to deal with rain, they'd be completely
useless - and have absolutely no market.

Wrong definition, wrong application to the situation in question.
In short, you're wrong.

that could well make it slippery - I
> wouldn't use Summer tires for anything except racing on dry pavement.
> A good all-season, with somewhat stickier rubber, should be fine
> running 38psi.
> Postscript: I just looked, and the F1 is indeed a Summer radial.

Centre Parting wrote:
> Leftie wrote:
>> Tony wrote:
>>> Leftie wrote:
>>>> Centre Parting wrote:
>>>>> Leftie wrote:
>>>>>> (E-Mail Removed) wrote:
>>>>>>> Is there such a thing as a computer upgrade chip for a 92 960
>>>>>>> that would increase fuel mileage? Even though it would reduce
>>>>>>> acceleration.........
>>>>>> I doubt it, but the good news is you can get pretty much the
>>>>>> same result by increasing tire pressure to 10% below the max
>>>>>> pressure listed on the sidewalls,
>>>>> ... but don't brake or corner too hard in the wet!
>>>>
>>>> If you are running good (not even great, just "good") tires it
>>>> won't be a problem. If it seems a little too stiff, back off the
>>>> pressure one or two psi at a time.
>>>>
>>> I have Goodyear F1 on the back of my 940 and had the pressure up at
>>> +8psi for a long trip 80% loaded. After finishing the trip and going
>>> back to normal loads I didn't reduce the pressure for a few days, the
>>> back end does breakaway in the wet and you do lose grip, it is simple
>>> physics, the economy goes up because the contact patch with the road
>>> is reduced, you will end up wearing your tyres in the middle and
>>> have less chance at avoiding unexpected obstacles. Not worth the
>>> risk IMO. If you want economy this way then much better to fit the
>>> skinniest
>>> tyres (correctly inflated) that will go on the rim, and you benefit
>>> from reduced air resistance as well as rolling resistance.
>>>
>>> Of course making sure the tyres are not under-inflated is important
>>> too. --
>>> Tony
>>
>> It's not quite that simple. The rolling resistance can be reduced
>> without reducing the size of the contact patch, by making the tire
>> stiffer - i.e. by increasing the pressure 10%. What is the Goodyear
>> F1? If it's a Summer tire
>
> With the greatest disrespect, not being a snow-tyre has nothing to do with
> rain performance.
> If Summer tyres weren't able to deal with rain, they'd be completely
> useless - and have absolutely no market.
>
> Wrong definition, wrong application to the situation in question.
> In short, you're wrong.
>
> that could well make it slippery - I
>> wouldn't use Summer tires for anything except racing on dry pavement.
>> A good all-season, with somewhat stickier rubber, should be fine
>> running 38psi.
>> Postscript: I just looked, and the F1 is indeed a Summer radial.
>
>

All-Season tires have a more open tread design than Summer tires,
and this helps in rain. Summer tires aren't "useless" in rain, I just
prefer the all-around traction of All-Seasons to the mainly-dry-pavement
traction of performance Summer tires.

Leftie wrote:
> Centre Parting wrote:
>> Leftie wrote:
>>> Tony wrote:
>>>> Leftie wrote:
>>>>> Centre Parting wrote:
>>>>>> Leftie wrote:
>>>>>>> (E-Mail Removed) wrote:
>>>>>>>> Is there such a thing as a computer upgrade chip for a 92 960
>>>>>>>> that would increase fuel mileage? Even though it would reduce
>>>>>>>> acceleration.........
>>>>>>> I doubt it, but the good news is you can get pretty much the
>>>>>>> same result by increasing tire pressure to 10% below the max
>>>>>>> pressure listed on the sidewalls,
>>>>>> ... but don't brake or corner too hard in the wet!
>>>>>
>>>>> If you are running good (not even great, just "good") tires
>>>>> it won't be a problem. If it seems a little too stiff, back off
>>>>> the pressure one or two psi at a time.
>>>>>
>>>> I have Goodyear F1 on the back of my 940 and had the pressure up at
>>>> +8psi for a long trip 80% loaded. After finishing the trip and
>>>> going back to normal loads I didn't reduce the pressure for a few
>>>> days, the back end does breakaway in the wet and you do lose grip,
>>>> it is simple physics, the economy goes up because the contact
>>>> patch with the road is reduced, you will end up wearing your tyres
>>>> in the middle and have less chance at avoiding unexpected
>>>> obstacles. Not worth the risk IMO. If you want economy this way
>>>> then much better to fit the skinniest
>>>> tyres (correctly inflated) that will go on the rim, and you benefit
>>>> from reduced air resistance as well as rolling resistance.
>>>>
>>>> Of course making sure the tyres are not under-inflated is important
>>>> too. --
>>>> Tony
>>>
>>> It's not quite that simple. The rolling resistance can be reduced
>>> without reducing the size of the contact patch, by making the tire
>>> stiffer - i.e. by increasing the pressure 10%. What is the Goodyear
>>> F1? If it's a Summer tire
>>
>> With the greatest disrespect, not being a snow-tyre has nothing to
>> do with rain performance.
>> If Summer tyres weren't able to deal with rain, they'd be completely
>> useless - and have absolutely no market.
>>
>> Wrong definition, wrong application to the situation in question.
>> In short, you're wrong.
>>
>> that could well make it slippery - I
>>> wouldn't use Summer tires for anything except racing on dry
>>> pavement. A good all-season, with somewhat stickier rubber, should
>>> be fine running 38psi.
>>> Postscript: I just looked, and the F1 is indeed a Summer radial.
>>
>>
>
> All-Season tires have a more open tread design than Summer tires,

Dry = slick tyres
Summer = rain tyres
All-season = snow tyres

You're reading too much into the names.

> and this helps in rain. Summer tires aren't "useless" in rain, I just
> prefer the all-around traction of All-Seasons to the
> mainly-dry-pavement traction of performance Summer tires.