Hood latch spring failure

My 1990 240 popped up an odd little failure yesterday. Two of them
simultaneously, actually.

It was reluctant to start and was stumbling on acceleration from a stop;
this was following several days of rain and in the past this has
indicated new spark plug wires being necessary. So I popped the hood
and the wires looked fine. I noticed a strong gasoline smell though and
started looking around. I found a fuel leak just in front of the left
rear wheel, dripping off a sort of cage around what is probably the fuel
pump (I haven't looked at my manuals yet to verify, and I'm not going to
fix it myself anyway. It's also due for a new fuel filter and the
in-tank pump makes a lot of noise too so there are several issues to
attend to).

Figuring that the fuel leak may have been causing the slight stumble, I
closed the hood. It wouldn't stay down. Further investigation showed
that the hood latch retention spring had broken off. Jeez. Now this
seems like something I could fix myself- the question is, do I need a
specific part from Volvo or can I find something suitable at the
hardware store?

--
Faith is believing what you know ain't so.
-Mark Twain

Tim McNamara wrote:
> My 1990 240 popped up an odd little failure yesterday. Two of them
> simultaneously, actually.
>
> It was reluctant to start and was stumbling on acceleration from a stop;
> this was following several days of rain and in the past this has
> indicated new spark plug wires being necessary. So I popped the hood
> and the wires looked fine. I noticed a strong gasoline smell though and
> started looking around. I found a fuel leak just in front of the left
> rear wheel, dripping off a sort of cage around what is probably the fuel
> pump (I haven't looked at my manuals yet to verify, and I'm not going to
> fix it myself anyway. It's also due for a new fuel filter and the
> in-tank pump makes a lot of noise too so there are several issues to
> attend to).
>
> Figuring that the fuel leak may have been causing the slight stumble, I
> closed the hood. It wouldn't stay down. Further investigation showed
> that the hood latch retention spring had broken off. Jeez. Now this
> seems like something I could fix myself- the question is, do I need a
> specific part from Volvo or can I find something suitable at the
> hardware store?
>


The fuel pump and filter are both mounted in that bracket, that leak
certainly needs to be fixed ASAP.

I'm sure you could find a suitable spring somewhere to replace it, but I
would just go to a salvage yard and get one from another 240, there are
millions of them out there and I've never seen that spring break so
there should be plenty of good ones.

In article <hnjce0$5ek$(E-Mail Removed)>,
James Sweet <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:

> Tim McNamara wrote:
> > My 1990 240 popped up an odd little failure yesterday. Two of them
> > simultaneously, actually.
> >
> > It was reluctant to start and was stumbling on acceleration from a
> > stop; this was following several days of rain and in the past this
> > has indicated new spark plug wires being necessary. So I popped
> > the hood and the wires looked fine. I noticed a strong gasoline
> > smell though and started looking around. I found a fuel leak just
> > in front of the left rear wheel, dripping off a sort of cage around
> > what is probably the fuel pump (I haven't looked at my manuals yet
> > to verify, and I'm not going to fix it myself anyway. It's also
> > due for a new fuel filter and the in-tank pump makes a lot of noise
> > too so there are several issues to attend to).
> >
> > Figuring that the fuel leak may have been causing the slight
> > stumble, I closed the hood. It wouldn't stay down. Further
> > investigation showed that the hood latch retention spring had
> > broken off. Jeez. Now this seems like something I could fix
> > myself- the question is, do I need a specific part from Volvo or
> > can I find something suitable at the hardware store?
> >
>
>
> The fuel pump and filter are both mounted in that bracket, that leak
> certainly needs to be fixed ASAP.

Yes, leaving a trail of gasoline is a bad idea on many fronts. I'm
hoping my mechanic can take it in tomorrow.

> I'm sure you could find a suitable spring somewhere to replace it,
> but I would just go to a salvage yard and get one from another 240,
> there are millions of them out there and I've never seen that spring
> break so there should be plenty of good ones.

Looking at the latch, that spring looks surprisingly non-robust. It
appears to have just rusted away.

Thanks!

--
Faith is believing what you know ain't so.
-Mark Twain

On Sun, 14 Mar 2010 12:12:02 -0700, James Sweet
<(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:

>Tim McNamara wrote:
>> My 1990 240 popped up an odd little failure yesterday. Two of them
>> simultaneously, actually.
>>
>> It was reluctant to start and was stumbling on acceleration from a stop;
>> this was following several days of rain and in the past this has
>> indicated new spark plug wires being necessary. So I popped the hood
>> and the wires looked fine. I noticed a strong gasoline smell though and
>> started looking around. I found a fuel leak just in front of the left
>> rear wheel, dripping off a sort of cage around what is probably the fuel
>> pump (I haven't looked at my manuals yet to verify, and I'm not going to
>> fix it myself anyway. It's also due for a new fuel filter and the
>> in-tank pump makes a lot of noise too so there are several issues to
>> attend to).
>>
>> Figuring that the fuel leak may have been causing the slight stumble, I
>> closed the hood. It wouldn't stay down. Further investigation showed
>> that the hood latch retention spring had broken off. Jeez. Now this
>> seems like something I could fix myself- the question is, do I need a
>> specific part from Volvo or can I find something suitable at the
>> hardware store?
>>
>
>
>The fuel pump and filter are both mounted in that bracket, that leak
>certainly needs to be fixed ASAP.
>
>I'm sure you could find a suitable spring somewhere to replace it, but I
>would just go to a salvage yard and get one from another 240, there are
>millions of them out there and I've never seen that spring break so
>there should be plenty of good ones.

in the 70's & 80's there were junk yards. i often knew who had what
vehicles so" presto replaco" i could find what was needed by whom.
mais, l'est plus ca change le plus ca reste meme. we no longer have
yards we have ip adresses. i know a "few" dismemblers but all their
stock is on line.

you don't need the exact spring. @ first guess many other (read
American) hoods opened the same way. on line there will be people who
sell just spings. if you are smarter than the average bear, you will
find one that works. i own an R which i race.... so Volvo, small
package, Swede-air -- first class oh, & two points of attachment,
2x$millions. right now my hood doesn't pop. instead of springs, i use
my wallet or a book, or a.....

the filter, pump, bracket arrangement was fairly comman @ that time.
after 20yrs the connections become aged & fiddled/ refiddled w/. my
lines are monel, "steam fitted" & inspected frequently. alot of vinyl
ended up being used. 5 connections 20 cm -- Houston we may have a
problem.

Richard W Langbauer wrote:
> On Sun, 14 Mar 2010 12:12:02 -0700, James Sweet
> <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:
>
>> Tim McNamara wrote:
>>> My 1990 240 popped up an odd little failure yesterday. Two of them
>>> simultaneously, actually.
>>>
>>> It was reluctant to start and was stumbling on acceleration from a stop;
>>> this was following several days of rain and in the past this has
>>> indicated new spark plug wires being necessary. So I popped the hood
>>> and the wires looked fine. I noticed a strong gasoline smell though and
>>> started looking around. I found a fuel leak just in front of the left
>>> rear wheel, dripping off a sort of cage around what is probably the fuel
>>> pump (I haven't looked at my manuals yet to verify, and I'm not going to
>>> fix it myself anyway. It's also due for a new fuel filter and the
>>> in-tank pump makes a lot of noise too so there are several issues to
>>> attend to).
>>>
>>> Figuring that the fuel leak may have been causing the slight stumble, I
>>> closed the hood. It wouldn't stay down. Further investigation showed
>>> that the hood latch retention spring had broken off. Jeez. Now this
>>> seems like something I could fix myself- the question is, do I need a
>>> specific part from Volvo or can I find something suitable at the
>>> hardware store?
>>>
>>
>> The fuel pump and filter are both mounted in that bracket, that leak
>> certainly needs to be fixed ASAP.
>>
>> I'm sure you could find a suitable spring somewhere to replace it, but I
>> would just go to a salvage yard and get one from another 240, there are
>> millions of them out there and I've never seen that spring break so
>> there should be plenty of good ones.
>
> in the 70's & 80's there were junk yards. i often knew who had what
> vehicles so" presto replaco" i could find what was needed by whom.
> mais, l'est plus ca change le plus ca reste meme. we no longer have
> yards we have ip adresses. i know a "few" dismemblers but all their
> stock is on line.
>


Depends on where you are I guess. There's at least half a dozen well
stocked U-pull yards within an hour or so of me, about half of which
have a good selection of Volvos and cheap prices. Seems to be a thriving
business, the places are almost always packed, especially when the
weather is nice.

Don't forget a new fuel filter as well and maybe the tank sock filter.
"Tim McNamara" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
news:timmcn-(E-Mail Removed)...
> My 1990 240 popped up an odd little failure yesterday. Two of them
> simultaneously, actually.
>
> It was reluctant to start and was stumbling on acceleration from a stop;
> this was following several days of rain and in the past this has
> indicated new spark plug wires being necessary. So I popped the hood
> and the wires looked fine. I noticed a strong gasoline smell though and
> started looking around. I found a fuel leak just in front of the left
> rear wheel, dripping off a sort of cage around what is probably the fuel
> pump (I haven't looked at my manuals yet to verify, and I'm not going to
> fix it myself anyway. It's also due for a new fuel filter and the
> in-tank pump makes a lot of noise too so there are several issues to
> attend to).
>
> Figuring that the fuel leak may have been causing the slight stumble, I
> closed the hood. It wouldn't stay down. Further investigation showed
> that the hood latch retention spring had broken off. Jeez. Now this
> seems like something I could fix myself- the question is, do I need a
> specific part from Volvo or can I find something suitable at the
> hardware store?
>
> --
> Faith is believing what you know ain't so.
> -Mark Twain

James Sweet wrote:
> Richard W Langbauer wrote:
>> On Sun, 14 Mar 2010 12:12:02 -0700, James Sweet
>> <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:
>>
>>>...
>>
>> in the 70's & 80's there were junk yards. i often knew who had what
>> vehicles so" presto replaco" i could find what was needed by whom.
>> mais, l'est plus ca change le plus ca reste meme. we no longer have
>> yards we have ip adresses. i know a "few" dismemblers but all their
>> stock is on line.
>>
>
>
> Depends on where you are I guess. There's at least half a dozen well
> stocked U-pull yards within an hour or so of me, about half of which
> have a good selection of Volvos and cheap prices. Seems to be a thriving
> business, the places are almost always packed, especially when the
> weather is nice.

They ought to be over full after the cash for clunkers debacle.
My uncle is in the used car business (karnutz.com, voted the most
irritating web site on the net) says the junkyards he uses were giving
parts away to make room...

Today the leak was fixed, apparently two things were involved. The
first was that the fuel filter hadn't been changed in about 100,000
miles. The second was corroded aluminum washers/gaskets where the fuel
line attached to the fuel filter.

It was also discovered that the in-tank fuel pump has no output (e.g.,
it's not running). So that's on the list of things to do. A couple
other things were noted included a control arm bushing needing
replacement (which I knew already but had forgotten about) and an inner
tie rod end starting to have some movement.

Jeez, these 20 years old cars... I'm delighted to have it back and
running well, now on to fixing the newly discovered issues.

--
Faith is believing what you know ain't so.
-Mark Twain

Tim McNamara wrote:
> Today the leak was fixed, apparently two things were involved. The
> first was that the fuel filter hadn't been changed in about 100,000
> miles. The second was corroded aluminum washers/gaskets where the fuel
> line attached to the fuel filter.
>
> It was also discovered that the in-tank fuel pump has no output (e.g.,
> it's not running). So that's on the list of things to do. A couple
> other things were noted included a control arm bushing needing
> replacement (which I knew already but had forgotten about) and an inner
> tie rod end starting to have some movement.
>
> Jeez, these 20 years old cars... I'm delighted to have it back and
> running well, now on to fixing the newly discovered issues.
>


The pre-pump failure is very common, and will eventually lead to failure
of the main pump. The rubber accordion hose to the pre-pump is almost
certainly split as well.

In article <hnmo9t$42v$(E-Mail Removed)>,
James Sweet <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:

> Tim McNamara wrote:
> > Today the leak was fixed, apparently two things were involved. The
> > first was that the fuel filter hadn't been changed in about 100,000
> > miles. The second was corroded aluminum washers/gaskets where the
> > fuel line attached to the fuel filter.
> >
> > It was also discovered that the in-tank fuel pump has no output
> > (e.g., it's not running). So that's on the list of things to do.
> > A couple other things were noted included a control arm bushing
> > needing replacement (which I knew already but had forgotten about)
> > and an inner tie rod end starting to have some movement.
> >
> > Jeez, these 20 years old cars... I'm delighted to have it back and
> > running well, now on to fixing the newly discovered issues.
> >
>
>
> The pre-pump failure is very common, and will eventually lead to
> failure of the main pump. The rubber accordion hose to the pre-pump
> is almost certainly split as well.

Ah. That would be bad. OK, the to-do list:

Left control arm bushing (probably should just do all of them)
Inner tie rod end(s)
In-tank pump and associated bits
Replace the plastic radiator with a metal one
New plug and coil wires
Replace the bracket by the coil, which is cracked
Repair or replace the driver's seat.
Replace the center console/rear seat ashtray assembly

I think that's about all the known stuff until the next timing belt
change which is 20,000 miles off.

--
Faith is believing what you know ain't so.
-Mark Twain