Spark plug torque question

Hello...

RE: 2000 C70 Convertible.

When replacing spark plugs, how critical is the torque?

Reason, at 75k it's time to replace the plugs, which should be fairly
straight forward. However, I do not own a torque tensioner, just a ratchet
and plug adapter.

I'd hate to buy a tool I'd never use again...if that critical, then for $10
guess I'd better go for it??


--
Thanks & B'rgds,

Uncle Vinnie

"Uncle Vinnie" wrote:

> RE: 2000 C70 Convertible.
>
> When replacing spark plugs, how critical is the torque?
>
> Reason, at 75k it's time to replace the plugs, which should be fairly
> straight forward. However, I do not own a torque tensioner, just a ratchet
> and plug adapter.
>
> I'd hate to buy a tool I'd never use again...if that critical, then for $10
> guess I'd better go for it??

My sources show that your plugs are the "gasket" type, and the proper
installation is finger tight, plus another 1/2 to 2/3 of a turn.

A torque wrench is still handy for all the other parts on your car.

Thank you.. that I can most likely judge...
I do not do all that much on the car.. mostly basics... Plugs are right on
top, one at a time can't be too bad... I've done them on much older cars, as
well as small engines (gapping, etc..)....

It just seems simple enough for me to do, at a much lower cost than a
shop..and it needs to get done...

Thank you!

MasterBlaster wrote:
> "Uncle Vinnie" wrote:
>
>> RE: 2000 C70 Convertible.
>>
>> When replacing spark plugs, how critical is the torque?
>>
>> Reason, at 75k it's time to replace the plugs, which should be fairly
>> straight forward. However, I do not own a torque tensioner, just a
>> ratchet and plug adapter.
>>
>> I'd hate to buy a tool I'd never use again...if that critical, then
>> for $10 guess I'd better go for it??
>
> My sources show that your plugs are the "gasket" type, and the proper
> installation is finger tight, plus another 1/2 to 2/3 of a turn.
>
> A torque wrench is still handy for all the other parts on your car.

--
Thanks & B'rgds,

Uncle Vinnie

Uncle Vinnie wrote:
> Thank you.. that I can most likely judge...
> I do not do all that much on the car.. mostly basics... Plugs are right on
> top, one at a time can't be too bad... I've done them on much older cars, as
> well as small engines (gapping, etc..)....
>
> It just seems simple enough for me to do, at a much lower cost than a
> shop..and it needs to get done...
>
> Thank you!
>


Yeah it's not difficult. I do recommend a bit of anti-seize compound on
the threads, doesn't take much, just a little dab. It's steel threads in
an aluminum cylinder head so you have to be careful not to get it
crossthreaded or over-tighten it, you can strip the threads right out of
the head.

If you're not certain, you can pick up a cheap but usable torque wrench
for under $20, you're still saving money over having a shop do it. You
might borrow one from a friend or neighbor too.

Make sure your plugs are spotless with no nicks or burrs and use a copper of
graphite agent on the threads so they are easy to get out next time .



"Uncle Vinnie" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
news:4c28d61d$0$31270$(E-Mail Removed)...
> Hello...
>
> RE: 2000 C70 Convertible.
>
> When replacing spark plugs, how critical is the torque?
>
> Reason, at 75k it's time to replace the plugs, which should be fairly
> straight forward. However, I do not own a torque tensioner, just a
> ratchet and plug adapter.
>
> I'd hate to buy a tool I'd never use again...if that critical, then for
> $10 guess I'd better go for it??
>
>
> --
> Thanks & B'rgds,
>
> Uncle Vinnie
>

Thank you all!
They need to get done, for sure... 75k, getting 'rough'...


Jon Robertson wrote:
> Make sure your plugs are spotless with no nicks or burrs and use a
> copper of graphite agent on the threads so they are easy to get out
> next time .
>
>
> "Uncle Vinnie" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
> news:4c28d61d$0$31270$(E-Mail Removed)...
>> Hello...
>>
>> RE: 2000 C70 Convertible.
>>
>> When replacing spark plugs, how critical is the torque?
>>
>> Reason, at 75k it's time to replace the plugs, which should be fairly
>> straight forward. However, I do not own a torque tensioner, just a
>> ratchet and plug adapter.
>>
>> I'd hate to buy a tool I'd never use again...if that critical, then
>> for $10 guess I'd better go for it??
>>
>>
>> --
>> Thanks & B'rgds,
>>
>> Uncle Vinnie

--
Thanks & B'rgds,

Uncle Vinnie

James Sweet wrote:
> Uncle Vinnie wrote:
>> Thank you.. that I can most likely judge...
>> I do not do all that much on the car.. mostly basics... Plugs are
>> right on top, one at a time can't be too bad... I've done them on much
>> older cars, as well as small engines (gapping, etc..)....
>>
>> It just seems simple enough for me to do, at a much lower cost than a
>> shop..and it needs to get done...
>>
>> Thank you!
>>
>
>
> Yeah it's not difficult. I do recommend a bit of anti-seize compound on
> the threads, doesn't take much, just a little dab. It's steel threads in
> an aluminum cylinder head so you have to be careful not to get it
> crossthreaded or over-tighten it, you can strip the threads right out of
> the head.
>
> If you're not certain, you can pick up a cheap but usable torque wrench
> for under $20, you're still saving money over having a shop do it. You
> might borrow one from a friend or neighbor too.

....if you're not done already.
Some chain auto parts have these tools for loan.
You pay full retail for the tool but when you return it, they give you
all your money back.
(AutoZone does this, anyway)

Uncle Vinnie wrote:
> Thank you all!
> They need to get done, for sure... 75k, getting 'rough'...
>
>
>

I'm not so sure it is the plugs that are causing the roughness. 75K is
a long time to go on one set, but I do find plugs are pretty well made
theses days.

I don't know your car but the main problems with sparkers are;

1. Dirt outside and inside causing electrical leakage, mostly can be
cleaned along with plug leads and coil packs. Most modern engines are
very good, my partners 323i has had the same set of plugs since purchase
5-10 years ago. It too is rougher but I doubt its because of plugs.

2. Bits break off, seems very rare if engine is operating correctly and
plugs are of good quality.

3. Gaps widen out, can easily be regapped.

I used to be very diligent with my plugs, regular cleaning, replacement
etc, but I havn't found any difference just leaving them alone. The
Engines still get rougher with miles probably due to bearing/piston ring
wear /valve sealing face etc.


--
Tony

On Wed, 30 Jun 2010 15:01:00 +0100, Tony <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:

>Uncle Vinnie wrote:
>> Thank you all!
>> They need to get done, for sure... 75k, getting 'rough'...
>>
>>
>>
>
>I'm not so sure it is the plugs that are causing the roughness. 75K is
>a long time to go on one set, but I do find plugs are pretty well made
>theses days.
>
>I don't know your car but the main problems with sparkers are;
>
>1. Dirt outside and inside causing electrical leakage, mostly can be
>cleaned along with plug leads and coil packs. Most modern engines are
>very good, my partners 323i has had the same set of plugs since purchase
>5-10 years ago. It too is rougher but I doubt its because of plugs.
>
>2. Bits break off, seems very rare if engine is operating correctly and
>plugs are of good quality.
>
>3. Gaps widen out, can easily be regapped.
>
>I used to be very diligent with my plugs, regular cleaning, replacement
>etc, but I havn't found any difference just leaving them alone. The
>Engines still get rougher with miles probably due to bearing/piston ring
>wear /valve sealing face etc.


it used to be plugs, points & condenser -- sometimes a coil. now its
connections, just like a 'puter.

running rough is not something to expect in the first 10 yrs. new
plugs after 75k is overdue (ok iridium's are supposed to last 100k,
but platinum only 50k.)

you have either a b5234 or a b5244 but there are letters & #s after
that which tell the whole story. look @ your vin & post the 6th &7th
digits. then i will be able to give a more complete answer.

try using premium. on race fuel my r purrrrs.

oh the torque is 17 nm.

53 are the VIN Digits.. as far as I know, I have the B5234 T3. I bought the
car used a few years ago (long story, don't ask) and don't thing the plugs
have been changed.. not since I have it anyway...

The car is now idling roughly, check engine light started to blink, and now
is solid.. c/b bad gas but I added Super... guess I have to get thru the
tank... it almost at times feel as if it is going to stall.. but after a
while of warming up and driving, drives fine.. it's at an idle, stop, etc,
it seems to want to stall, but doesn't...

Hence why I was thinking maybe plugs?
Most likey due anyway...

Richard W Langbauer wrote:
> On Wed, 30 Jun 2010 15:01:00 +0100, Tony <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:
>
>> Uncle Vinnie wrote:
>>> Thank you all!
>>> They need to get done, for sure... 75k, getting 'rough'...
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> I'm not so sure it is the plugs that are causing the roughness. 75K
>> is a long time to go on one set, but I do find plugs are pretty well
>> made theses days.
>>
>> I don't know your car but the main problems with sparkers are;
>>
>> 1. Dirt outside and inside causing electrical leakage, mostly can be
>> cleaned along with plug leads and coil packs. Most modern engines
>> are very good, my partners 323i has had the same set of plugs since
>> purchase 5-10 years ago. It too is rougher but I doubt its because
>> of plugs.
>>
>> 2. Bits break off, seems very rare if engine is operating correctly
>> and plugs are of good quality.
>>
>> 3. Gaps widen out, can easily be regapped.
>>
>> I used to be very diligent with my plugs, regular cleaning,
>> replacement etc, but I havn't found any difference just leaving them
>> alone. The Engines still get rougher with miles probably due to
>> bearing/piston ring wear /valve sealing face etc.
>
>
> it used to be plugs, points & condenser -- sometimes a coil. now its
> connections, just like a 'puter.
>
> running rough is not something to expect in the first 10 yrs. new
> plugs after 75k is overdue (ok iridium's are supposed to last 100k,
> but platinum only 50k.)
>
> you have either a b5234 or a b5244 but there are letters & #s after
> that which tell the whole story. look @ your vin & post the 6th &7th
> digits. then i will be able to give a more complete answer.
>
> try using premium. on race fuel my r purrrrs.
>
> oh the torque is 17 nm.

--
Thanks & B'rgds,

Uncle Vinnie