failed emissions test

Hi all!

I just had an emission tests on my 1994 850 turbo wagon and failed two portions:

ASM2525 Test
HC ppm: limit: 58 reading: 90 FAIL
CO%: limit: 0.32 reading: 0.58 FAIL
NO ppm: limit: 435 reading: 5 PASS
RPM: 1625 VALID
Dilution: 15.5 VALID

Curb Idle test
HC ppm: limit: 200 reading: 43 PASS
CO%: limit: 1.00 reading: 0.12 PASS
NO ppm: N/A
RPM: 877 VALID
Dilution: 13.4 VALID

Don't really know how to interpret these readings. The test was done in Ontario and reads, in part,from the exhaust.

The car had been sitting for a couple of weeks without being driven at all and was pretty cold going into the test. Tester said he would heat up the car before testing. After the failed results he suggested a tune up, but at a not participating drive clean garage where work done could be tallied towards a max limit needed to be spent on imptrovements.
Any suggestions as to what causes or what I can do myself to improve the results besides checking the air filter, spark plugs, changing the oil and taking it for a nice long fast drive?

Hi, I don't really understand emission control tests, but I would think we are talking about the amount of smoke getting past the rings in your engine that mixes with the exhaust fumes after a cylinder burn and is expelled out of your exhaust.
If that is the case, then I would recommend you get in touch with "Super Friction Fighter", 10600 S.145th W.Ave, Sapulpa, Oklahoma 74066 or www.Moly4oil.com and purchase some Molybulibdium Disulphate powder in vials from him. Cost is roughly $5 per vial and must be mixed manually by hand with new oil you are about to pour into your engine after an oil change.Make sure you put the correct amount in for your cars engine size. I mixed mine in a drinking glass, which I threw away afterwards. Alternatively, look for Moly or Swipe or other similar products on e.Bay. This stuff mixes with the engine oil and during combustion it fills the minute pin pricks in the cylinder walls with Moly (like non slip frying pans) the slipperiest substance known to man and restores your engine to as new and increases your compression back to normal, without putting un-necessary strain on your overall engine, which a head job only, would do. You would have to run your engine for about 3,000 miles, but if you can do that, your problems should be resolved for about $5 - $10 tops.
I use Moly in all of my old cars, because old cars is all I can afford in Aussie. Renewing the engine for a few bucks has its advantages, but also, if you lose all of your oil, provided your radiator is full of water and working OK, you can drive your car for hundreds of miles without any oil in the engine at all, after the 3,000 mile oil change, because Moly provides a slippery surface internally which does not cause friction and thus heat, although I would not recommend doing it for long. Tests have been done. Check on line for Moly
BigBenn