1. Very early 1800 in first year, called "Jensen" are very collectible
because of being first, but least reliable. Ever heard of Windows 1.0?
2. Look first for a model with the best body - no or very little rust. Rust
is like cancer - if you can see a little, it is an indicator that there is a
lot you can't see until it has spread and very out of control. Be willing
to pay more for a body that is perfect or near perfect (no rust). Have
someone knowledgeable with this specific model, or vintage cars in general,
inspect the car for sale to look for rust spots. Check your local or state
Volvo Club of America (VCOA) chapter for a recommended and qualified
inspector.
3. Bumper styles changed in the first few years. These are noticeable from
a collectible/cosmetic standpoint.
4. Various steering system and various braking system changes occured
throughout the 13 year run for the 1800. Around 66 - 68, brake system
advanced with dual system and brake pads vs. brake shoes. Also, the
mid-height side body chrome "Nike Swoosh" changed around '67 from a curve
line to a straight line from front of body to back. The earlier side chrome
is much more stylish. The straight chrome is more sleek. Some cars on the
used market have completely removed this chrome.
5. In '69, the sleek space-age aluminum dash switched to the cheesey glue-on
plastic simulated wood-grain dash accent, and the cool aqua-torquoise gauges
face color changed to black face with very refined (almost legal font)
lettering. I own a later '70, but I like the earlier space-age look
(personally).
6. In '70, the 1800E, with electronic fuel injection (Bosch D-Jet, WWI
prototype) replaced the dual SU Carb system. It also had high compression
B20E engine, with increased horse power. Both the earlier carb system and
the fuel injection system have their advantages and disadvantages. Both
vintages can be re-fitted with various options, including aftermarket.
Consult with
www.ipdusa.com for a rundown of available options, and decide
which set of problems you want to embrace.
7. In '71, the hatchback wagon version body was introduced, and was produced
until '73. It has its own coolness. Other than the hatchback body,
everything else was the same as the late 2 door model.
These 7 choices give you a high level overview of the model. Number 2 is
the most important item in your overall purchase decision. Get a clean,
rust-free body to start with. All the other problems are just mechanical,
and (relatively) either repairable or replaceable.
If you are near Dallas/Ft. Worth, you are welcome to look at mine, I will
probably sell within the next year, I'm too old to want to drive it and
tinker with it anymore. Also, check your local VCOA chapter for models for
sale, recommendations, and advice.
Good luck,
Pat Q
"G-yode" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
news:(E-Mail Removed) ups.com...
> I've been looking around for sometime trying to find a decent volvo
> 1800. I have never owned a Volvo and I was wondering what to look for
> when it came to problem areas.
>
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