1989 240 Squeaky front suspension

I've seen some posts about this in my archive searching but I haven't
been able to resolve this yet. I have a squeak that can be reproduced
by pushing down above the right front wheel. Even a small push of just
one inch will cause this fairly loud squeak to happen. It does not
sound like metal to metal. I have sprayed silicone all over the
obvious areas such as control arm and sway bar bushings along with
what I could reach inside the spring/strut area. I have not done
inside the tie rod plastic covers because there is no noise when
turning, only over bumps. This is driving me mildly batty. Any ideas?

Danny

 

You didn't mention how many miles or what the maintenance/repair in
this area has been, (and I don't know the car specifically) but
generally:

If this car has McPherson struts then the first likely spot are the
cone bushings where the radius arm meets the front control arm. These
are a wear item and should be replaced about every 80,000-100,000
miles- more often depending on the driving conditions. If you have
sprayed silicone in there, then just go ahead and replace them. These
are not supposed to slip. If worn and then lubed they will begin to
move and very soon thereafter destroy themselves. Metal to metal
contact follows and will damage the control arm.

The next likely place is the stabilizer (anti-roll bar). The mounts
where the bar attaches to the frame (one on each side) is prone to
squeak. Although not as likely to wear from the silicone spray there,
ones it starts to squeak it is time for replacement. The links that
attach the stabilizer to the control arm are the next place to check.

I mention all the above as they are well within the ability of the
backyard mechanic to repair. Beyond these it gets more difficult.
__ __
Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
\__/olvo
'93 960 Estate

 

All true on a 7 series, however a 240 has none of those problems. The
squeeky bedspring noise comes from the inner tie rod end. The ball end
rusts and squeeks against the teflon liner inside the ball socket formed
over the tie rod end. If you remove the boot from the rack and unscrew
the rod end you may, with a goos bit of luck, be able to work some
lubricant in between the mating surface. Unfortunately this seldom more
than a temporary fix and the noisey tie rod will need to be re[;aced.

Bob

 

The thing that doesn't make sense to me about the tie rod ends causing
this is that the noise is only when hitting a small bump, never from
any sort of turning. Would't a tie rod squek manifest during a turn
and NOT a bump?

Danny

 

Possible silly answer.

You say if you push down only 1 inch you have the noise.
You should lay under the car or put it on a ramp and get someone to push
down, sound a silly answer but you ears should direct you to the area where
the noise is.
Another option is if you think you have found the area hold it with the palm
of you hand and get someone to push, the noise will travel through the palm
of you hand and tell you where the noise is.

Don't let it drive you crazy, treat it as a challenge you are able to solve.
Remember we have the brains at the end its only a machine.

 

My 240 had a bad squeak where the large bushing at the rear of the
control arm was rubbing on the large washer welded to the rear of the
control arm. I had to loosen the nut to get space to get lube
inbetween.

Also, ipd sway bars are notorious for squeaking in the bushings between
the sway bar and frame rails. These also require disassembly to lube
properly.

--
Mike F.
Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

NOTE: new address!!
Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
(But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)

 

....to do this with such limited clearance vehicles (I had a vw van,
full-size Blazer and a 4wd Ford PU) drive two wheels up onto a curb
with the other two still in the street- instant ramps! You can change
oil or such this way, but it does give you a was to get under the car
when you need to without getting out the jack and stands.
__ __
Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
\__/olvo
'93 960 Estate

 

__ __
Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
\__/olvo
'93 960 Estate

 

When changing oil on our 240's, I never need to raise the car. I expect
it would be the same with 700 or 900 series cars. I lay down alongside
the driver's door with my shoulder near the mud flap. I'm able to
extend a wrench to loosen the drain plug, and loosen it with two
fingers. I'm only medium-tall at about 5'9", so I'm sure that many
other shade-tree mechanics will be able to use the same method.

I'm sure it would work just as well from the passenger side. My left
eye is is much better than my right, so my method gives me a good view
via my good eye.

Bruce

 

I bought a pair of ramps. With short lengths of 2" x 12" boards under
the ramp I can drive the 960 up without scraping anything. Since the
drain plug is at the back of the oil pan is works out fine. Probably
lets me get a little more oil out than if it were level.

You can make a set for oil change purposes easily enough. SOrt of like
this (not to scale):
__
| |
|__|_____________
| \
|_________________\______
| \
|_________________________\______
| \
|__________________________________\

Put rubber or non-skid tape on the bottom

__ __
Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
\__/olvo
'93 960 Estate