740 GL timing belt

I want to renew the timing belt on my 740, with the B230E engine. I
purchased a Haynes manual this morning and don't find it all that clear. It
keeps jumping about round the different models. Does anyone know if I have
interpreted the manual correctly that you don't need a tension checker when
replacing the belt, you just trust the automatic tensioner to get it right.
Are the timing marks in the sprockets/casings easy to identify?. To be
honest I haven't looked at the engine with the manual in hand yet, that
comes tomorrow, weather permitting. I'm sure it will all become clear once I
start.

Any tips welcomed.

Bill

 

From a point at sea, to the circles of your mind, this is Bill:

If you've done a timing belt on any other car before you won't have
any trouble with this one. The most difficult part is loosening the
crank pulley - easiest way is to put a socket and T-bar on it with an
extension tube braced against something solid, and then briefly
operate the starter motor.

The tensioner is spring loaded to take the slack up - once this is
done you clamp it with a nut so it can't move; then turn the engine
over a couple of times by hand, loosen and re-clamp. After 500 miles
loosen and re-clamp it again - there's a hole in the cover to make
this easy. It's often a good idea to replace the tensioner with the
belt - it's not expensive.

Also note, that you can lever back the tensioner against it's spring
easily enough with a bar of some sort (once the clamp nut is loosened,
obviously), and then you will see a hole in which you can slip a nail
to retain it in this position while you replace the belt. Remove the
clamp nut entirely and the whole tensioner can be pulled off while
it's like this.

The only sprocket wheels you need to get aligned are the crank and
camshaft ones; the intermediate one doesn't matter on this model. The
marks on the wheels are easy enough to find, but the marks on the case
that they align with are not necessarily obvious. If in doubt, put
your own marks on with tippex (typing correction fluid) before you
remove the old belt.

I have used the following method without needing to find any marks:
before you remove the old belt, put a couple of daps of tippex on the
edge of each sprocket, so that the dabs overlap onto the edge of the
belt. Make each dab exactly co-incide with a tooth. Now remove the old
belt, and, by counting the teeth between dabs, mark the new belt with
tippex so that it matches the old one. When you fit the new belt, line
up the tippex dabs and the sprockets will be in the same alignment as
with the old one. Even if the sprockets get turned, it's just a matter
of matching the dabs, and it will be OK.

Another method I read about on here a while ago, but have not yet
tried myself: Before loosening the tensioner and removing the old
belt, slit it longways with a Stanley knife, turning the engine as you
go, so the you have two half-width belts. Loosen the tensioner and
remove the front part of the old belt. Fit the new belt half on. Cut
the other old half off. Fit new belt fully.

BTW, this model is a non-interference engine, which means that pistons
and valves can never come into contact with each other - rotating the
crankshaft is OK when the belt is off.

Finally, regarding the Haynes manual - the one with the blue cover is
a retrograde step by Haynes; it is poorly set out, confusing, and not
particularly comprehensive. Have a look on eBay to see if you can get
a copy of the older black covered book - it is much more informative
and covers 740 and 760 models up to 1989. I got mine for about 4 quid.


--

Stewart Hargrave

A lot faster than public transport


For email, replace 'SpamOnlyToHere' with my name

 

If you're just changing the belt, spin the idler wheel and check for
roughness if fine just lever it back and tighten the nnut to hold it in
the retracted position.

For the record: in the B230 family all E engines and some A engines are
interference types. F engines have never been interference engines.

Bob

 

Thanks for that, I have printed it off and slipped in the manual. I did
buy the blue covered one. The other one you mentioned was on Ebay the other
night with just a few minutes to go at £2:50. I didn't see what the closing
price was. I will have to keep an eye open.

I had a quick look today at the cambelt, and it looks straight forward
enough. I have an air wrench, providing I can get it in the nut will come
off easy. I don't suppose you can remember the size of the nut can you, and
is it a normal right hand thread. I think my biggest socket is 22 mm, I may
need to go shopping.

Bill

 

From a point at sea, to the circles of your mind, this is volvowrench:

You sure about this?

I've never put it to the test, but I've always thought that my B230E
(UK spec.) is non-interference.


--

Stewart Hargrave

A lot faster than public transport


For email, replace 'SpamOnlyToHere' with my name

 

For interest sake would it do any harm if I SLOWLY turned my crankshaft when
the belt is removed and see if anything locks, or if it goes all the way
round. It would settle the debate once and for all.

 

From a point at sea, to the circles of your mind, this is Bill:

An imperial 15/16th socket does it for me. As 1/16th inch is nearly
1.6mm and there are 25.4mm in an inch I guess this equates to a snug
24mm.

It's a normal RH thread.



--

Stewart Hargrave

A lot faster than public transport


For email, replace 'SpamOnlyToHere' with my name

 

From a point at sea, to the circles of your mind, this is Bill:

On behalf of the entire Vovlo owning community we are pleased to
accept your offer.

If you knacker your engine, you're on your own.


--

Stewart Hargrave

A lot faster than public transport


For email, replace 'SpamOnlyToHere' with my name

 

My brother had a 1981 GLT with B23E engine ("K" camshaft) and was
definitely interference, personally checked by me, using above described
method. B230E does use a different camshaft though...

 

I thought that the GLT designation was for 16-valve twin cam engine. At least
that is in UK/Europe and B23E is European engine. Small wonder it was
interference if that is the case. I would be happy to be advised that my
information is wrong, if it is. I have a 745 GLT on my register that is local to
me and that is definitely twin cam.

Cheers, Peter.

: Stewart Hargrave wrote:
: >
: > On behalf of the entire Vovlo owning community we are pleased to
: > accept your offer.
: >
: > If you knacker your engine, you're on your own.
: >
: > --
: >
: > Stewart Hargrave
: >
: > A lot faster than public transport
: >
: > For email, replace 'SpamOnlyToHere' with my name
:
: My brother had a 1981 GLT with B23E engine ("K" camshaft) and was
: definitely interference, personally checked by me, using above described
: method. B230E does use a different camshaft though...
:
: --
: Mike F.
: Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.
:
: Change cant to ca and remove parentheses to email me directly.

 

The GLT designation was around long before the 16 valve engine, and the
B23E was used in lots of places other than Europe. In Canada, all our
1981-1983 GL and GLT models received the B23E engine, although only the
1981 and 1982 models had the high lift "K" camshaft.

 

I have a GB 740 GLT that is an 8 valve engine, it's an '85 model (estate)

Stuart.

 

Thanks for that Mike.

Cheers, Peter.

: Peter Milnes wrote:
: >
: > I thought that the GLT designation was for 16-valve twin cam engine. At
least
: > that is in UK/Europe and B23E is European engine. Small wonder it was
: > interference if that is the case. I would be happy to be advised that my
: > information is wrong, if it is. I have a 745 GLT on my register that is
local to
: > me and that is definitely twin cam.
: >
: > Cheers, Peter.
: >
:
: The GLT designation was around long before the 16 valve engine, and the
: B23E was used in lots of places other than Europe. In Canada, all our
: 1981-1983 GL and GLT models received the B23E engine, although only the
: 1981 and 1982 models had the high lift "K" camshaft.
:
: --
: Mike F.
: Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.
:
: Change cant to ca and remove parentheses to email me directly.