89-780 Battery drains While parked?

Discussion in 'Volvo 780' started by AJ, Jan 25, 2004.

  1. AJ

    AJ Guest

    Still having the same problem. I do have the Green Book, for wiring.
    And some non-auto electrical knowledge.
    I guess I can start taking one of the wires off the possitive battery
    terminal. The 780 has 6 feeds off the terminal.
    What would one of you professionals do?
    I know that I have a short to ground, somewhere.
    I have plenty of time. Just wondering if there is a more systematic
    way to do this. None of the door switch lights are bad.
    I have removed the whole radio, equalizer, lighter assembly.
    So, I have easy access to the fuse/relay panel.

    What a sweet car, I had it out today for a while. Runs fine.
    Battery will last for a couple of days, then dead.
    Had the battery tested today, it is fine and 6 months old.
    Of course I had it on the charger for a few hours.

    Thanks, Again.

    AJ @ Home in Wisconsin
    1989 - 765 w/134k Miles
    1989 - 780T w/143k Miles
    1987 - 245 w/225k Sold
    And the Wife's FORD is still going.
     
    AJ, Jan 25, 2004
    #1
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  2. AJ

    don hodgdon Guest

    Copied from the Brickboard FAQ:
    http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/ElectricalStarting.htm#Slow Battery%
    20Discharge

    Slow Battery Discharge. [Query:] I am having an electrical problem with my
    Volvo. About two months ago the battery went dead--slowly over time. It
    was an old battery, so I though nothing of it and replaced it. All was good
    for a month and a half, then it went dead again. With the car running I
    measured 14volts across the terminals of the battery (12 when stopped) and
    14v off the main positive lead of the alternator. What is the problem here?
    [Battery Drain Diagnostics: Response: Ross Gunn] To check to see if there
    is something draining the battery while the key is off, remove the pos
    battery terminal, and with an ammeter, measure to see if there is any
    current flowing from the battery to the cable. If there is anything more
    than a couple of milliamps, try removing fuses one at a time to see if you
    can identify the circuit that is causing the drain. If this pins down a
    problem, a little more sleuthing through the offending circuit should tell
    you what needs to be done.
    If there is no drain showing with the above test, the charging system is
    suspect. Try measuring the voltage at the alternator output terminal and
    battery pos terminal with all utilities (headlights, rear window heater,
    fan etc.) on high. Any difference in reading indicates a poor connection
    somewhere in the red cable from the alternator. Don't assume that a crimp
    connection of a terminal on the cable is good. Corrosion can introduce
    enough resistance to prevent proper (any?) charging when there is a
    significant load on the system (cold, dark, wet/snowy winter evenings). I
    have experienced this on a 20 year old Brick.

    [Battery Drain Diagnostics: Chris Bowne] I agree with Ross Gunn that the
    best way to trouble shoot a discharging battery is to find the source with
    the engine shut down and a multimeter (set to measure DC current) in series
    with the positive battery terminal lead. Other places to check besides the
    fuse block for drain paths are the alternator and voltage regulator (if not
    internal to the alternator).
    Disconnect/reconnect the connections on them, one at a time, and monitor for
    drain. I had a problem on a Ford Taurus once where the voltage regulator had
    shorted, and was the cause of the drain. You may or may not find a source of
    a drain like this merely by pulling fuses. In fact, you could end up with
    all the fuses pulled, and still have the drain, like I did!
    Someone on an earlier posting of this thread mentioned checking to see if
    his alternator was providing output by lifting the battery + terminal
    connection WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING. DO NOT DO THIS! Many solid state
    regulators will be damaged/destroyed by this condition. (And in turn may
    compound the causes of the battery drain you are troubleshooting!)

    Battery Drain Tips. [Tip from JohnB] Check the specific gravity of the
    cells...if they're accessible.
    With a fully charged battery, either from your battery charger or the
    alternator, disconnect the battery and measure the voltage, measure it again
    12 hours later and it should be virtually the same, maybe .1v less, no more.
    Reconnect the battery to the car and turn on the headlights on full bright
    for 10 minutes and every accessory in the car...if the battery dies in 10
    minutes replace the battery. Otherwise, battery voltage should remain above
    10.5 volts or so after this test. There are load testers available in auto
    parts stores for about $30 or so that will do a higher load test (couple
    hundred amps through a resistance load bank) in about 10-30 seconds against
    a red/bad yellow/weak green/good voltage scale.
    If these tests still have you with a good battery, then you just have to
    trace down the current drain, circuit by circuit.

    Good luck,

    --
    -don

    '81 242t
    '89 744ti



    "AJ" <> wrote in message
    news:...
    > Still having the same problem. I do have the Green Book, for wiring.
    > And some non-auto electrical knowledge.
    > I guess I can start taking one of the wires off the possitive battery
    > terminal. The 780 has 6 feeds off the terminal.
    > What would one of you professionals do?
    > I know that I have a short to ground, somewhere.
    > I have plenty of time. Just wondering if there is a more systematic
    > way to do this. None of the door switch lights are bad.
    > I have removed the whole radio, equalizer, lighter assembly.
    > So, I have easy access to the fuse/relay panel.
    >
    > What a sweet car, I had it out today for a while. Runs fine.
    > Battery will last for a couple of days, then dead.
    > Had the battery tested today, it is fine and 6 months old.
    > Of course I had it on the charger for a few hours.
    >
    > Thanks, Again.
    >
    > AJ @ Home in Wisconsin
    > 1989 - 765 w/134k Miles
    > 1989 - 780T w/143k Miles
    > 1987 - 245 w/225k Sold
    > And the Wife's FORD is still going.
     
    don hodgdon, Jan 25, 2004
    #2
    1. Advertisements

  3. AJ

    A Franken Guest

    Hi,
    Try your luck on the central locking system. I 've had this problem with
    several Volvos in the past and every time it was in this system. Water in
    the doors canb do the harm. Sometimes it will do when you drive about
    40miles and make the car very hot inside. This will dry the doors.


    "don hodgdon" <> schreef in bericht
    news:qaHQb.49928$Xq2.38736@fed1read07...
    > Copied from the Brickboard FAQ:
    >

    http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/ElectricalStarting.htm#Slow Battery%
    > 20Discharge
    >
    > Slow Battery Discharge. [Query:] I am having an electrical problem with

    my
    > Volvo. About two months ago the battery went dead--slowly over time. It
    > was an old battery, so I though nothing of it and replaced it. All was

    good
    > for a month and a half, then it went dead again. With the car running I
    > measured 14volts across the terminals of the battery (12 when stopped) and
    > 14v off the main positive lead of the alternator. What is the problem

    here?
    > [Battery Drain Diagnostics: Response: Ross Gunn] To check to see if

    there
    > is something draining the battery while the key is off, remove the pos
    > battery terminal, and with an ammeter, measure to see if there is any
    > current flowing from the battery to the cable. If there is anything more
    > than a couple of milliamps, try removing fuses one at a time to see if you
    > can identify the circuit that is causing the drain. If this pins down a
    > problem, a little more sleuthing through the offending circuit should tell
    > you what needs to be done.
    > If there is no drain showing with the above test, the charging system is
    > suspect. Try measuring the voltage at the alternator output terminal and
    > battery pos terminal with all utilities (headlights, rear window heater,
    > fan etc.) on high. Any difference in reading indicates a poor connection
    > somewhere in the red cable from the alternator. Don't assume that a crimp
    > connection of a terminal on the cable is good. Corrosion can introduce
    > enough resistance to prevent proper (any?) charging when there is a
    > significant load on the system (cold, dark, wet/snowy winter evenings). I
    > have experienced this on a 20 year old Brick.
    >
    > [Battery Drain Diagnostics: Chris Bowne] I agree with Ross Gunn that the
    > best way to trouble shoot a discharging battery is to find the source with
    > the engine shut down and a multimeter (set to measure DC current) in

    series
    > with the positive battery terminal lead. Other places to check besides

    the
    > fuse block for drain paths are the alternator and voltage regulator (if

    not
    > internal to the alternator).
    > Disconnect/reconnect the connections on them, one at a time, and monitor

    for
    > drain. I had a problem on a Ford Taurus once where the voltage regulator

    had
    > shorted, and was the cause of the drain. You may or may not find a source

    of
    > a drain like this merely by pulling fuses. In fact, you could end up with
    > all the fuses pulled, and still have the drain, like I did!
    > Someone on an earlier posting of this thread mentioned checking to see if
    > his alternator was providing output by lifting the battery + terminal
    > connection WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING. DO NOT DO THIS! Many solid state
    > regulators will be damaged/destroyed by this condition. (And in turn may
    > compound the causes of the battery drain you are troubleshooting!)
    >
    > Battery Drain Tips. [Tip from JohnB] Check the specific gravity of the
    > cells...if they're accessible.
    > With a fully charged battery, either from your battery charger or the
    > alternator, disconnect the battery and measure the voltage, measure it

    again
    > 12 hours later and it should be virtually the same, maybe .1v less, no

    more.
    > Reconnect the battery to the car and turn on the headlights on full bright
    > for 10 minutes and every accessory in the car...if the battery dies in 10
    > minutes replace the battery. Otherwise, battery voltage should remain

    above
    > 10.5 volts or so after this test. There are load testers available in auto
    > parts stores for about $30 or so that will do a higher load test (couple
    > hundred amps through a resistance load bank) in about 10-30 seconds

    against
    > a red/bad yellow/weak green/good voltage scale.
    > If these tests still have you with a good battery, then you just have to
    > trace down the current drain, circuit by circuit.
    >
    > Good luck,
    >
    > --
    > -don
    >
    > '81 242t
    > '89 744ti
    >
    >
    >
    > "AJ" <> wrote in message
    > news:...
    > > Still having the same problem. I do have the Green Book, for wiring.
    > > And some non-auto electrical knowledge.
    > > I guess I can start taking one of the wires off the possitive battery
    > > terminal. The 780 has 6 feeds off the terminal.
    > > What would one of you professionals do?
    > > I know that I have a short to ground, somewhere.
    > > I have plenty of time. Just wondering if there is a more systematic
    > > way to do this. None of the door switch lights are bad.
    > > I have removed the whole radio, equalizer, lighter assembly.
    > > So, I have easy access to the fuse/relay panel.
    > >
    > > What a sweet car, I had it out today for a while. Runs fine.
    > > Battery will last for a couple of days, then dead.
    > > Had the battery tested today, it is fine and 6 months old.
    > > Of course I had it on the charger for a few hours.
    > >
    > > Thanks, Again.
    > >
    > > AJ @ Home in Wisconsin
    > > 1989 - 765 w/134k Miles
    > > 1989 - 780T w/143k Miles
    > > 1987 - 245 w/225k Sold
    > > And the Wife's FORD is still going.

    >
    >
     
    A Franken, Jan 25, 2004
    #3
  4. AJ

    Peter Milnes Guest

    This is most likely to be a loose connection from the +ve busbar inside the car
    at top of bulkhead just under top of dashboard, or your +ve battery terminal is
    loose. Check also for one of the feeds (you say there are six) from the battery
    terminal with about one strand hanging on for dear life. If the battery goes
    dead whilst car is in motion then you need a new battery as it may well have
    enough sludge in the bottom to short out a cell or two, however it is very rare
    for a battery to fail in this way, so best to check for loose connections as
    mentioned above.

    Of course, there will be those who say damned Italian electricians (780s were
    assembled in Italy).

    Cheers, Peter.

    "A Franken" <> wrote in message
    news:bv0h0p$h46$1.nb.home.nl...
    : Hi,
    : Try your luck on the central locking system. I 've had this problem with
    : several Volvos in the past and every time it was in this system. Water in
    : the doors canb do the harm. Sometimes it will do when you drive about
    : 40miles and make the car very hot inside. This will dry the doors.
    :
    :
    : "don hodgdon" <> schreef in bericht
    : news:qaHQb.49928$Xq2.38736@fed1read07...
    : > Copied from the Brickboard FAQ:
    : >
    : http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/ElectricalStarting.htm#Slow Battery%
    : > 20Discharge
    : >
    : > Slow Battery Discharge. [Query:] I am having an electrical problem with
    : my
    : > Volvo. About two months ago the battery went dead--slowly over time. It
    : > was an old battery, so I though nothing of it and replaced it. All was
    : good
    : > for a month and a half, then it went dead again. With the car running I
    : > measured 14volts across the terminals of the battery (12 when stopped) and
    : > 14v off the main positive lead of the alternator. What is the problem
    : here?
    : > [Battery Drain Diagnostics: Response: Ross Gunn] To check to see if
    : there
    : > is something draining the battery while the key is off, remove the pos
    : > battery terminal, and with an ammeter, measure to see if there is any
    : > current flowing from the battery to the cable. If there is anything more
    : > than a couple of milliamps, try removing fuses one at a time to see if you
    : > can identify the circuit that is causing the drain. If this pins down a
    : > problem, a little more sleuthing through the offending circuit should tell
    : > you what needs to be done.
    : > If there is no drain showing with the above test, the charging system is
    : > suspect. Try measuring the voltage at the alternator output terminal and
    : > battery pos terminal with all utilities (headlights, rear window heater,
    : > fan etc.) on high. Any difference in reading indicates a poor connection
    : > somewhere in the red cable from the alternator. Don't assume that a crimp
    : > connection of a terminal on the cable is good. Corrosion can introduce
    : > enough resistance to prevent proper (any?) charging when there is a
    : > significant load on the system (cold, dark, wet/snowy winter evenings). I
    : > have experienced this on a 20 year old Brick.
    : >
    : > [Battery Drain Diagnostics: Chris Bowne] I agree with Ross Gunn that the
    : > best way to trouble shoot a discharging battery is to find the source with
    : > the engine shut down and a multimeter (set to measure DC current) in
    : series
    : > with the positive battery terminal lead. Other places to check besides
    : the
    : > fuse block for drain paths are the alternator and voltage regulator (if
    : not
    : > internal to the alternator).
    : > Disconnect/reconnect the connections on them, one at a time, and monitor
    : for
    : > drain. I had a problem on a Ford Taurus once where the voltage regulator
    : had
    : > shorted, and was the cause of the drain. You may or may not find a source
    : of
    : > a drain like this merely by pulling fuses. In fact, you could end up with
    : > all the fuses pulled, and still have the drain, like I did!
    : > Someone on an earlier posting of this thread mentioned checking to see if
    : > his alternator was providing output by lifting the battery + terminal
    : > connection WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING. DO NOT DO THIS! Many solid state
    : > regulators will be damaged/destroyed by this condition. (And in turn may
    : > compound the causes of the battery drain you are troubleshooting!)
    : >
    : > Battery Drain Tips. [Tip from JohnB] Check the specific gravity of the
    : > cells...if they're accessible.
    : > With a fully charged battery, either from your battery charger or the
    : > alternator, disconnect the battery and measure the voltage, measure it
    : again
    : > 12 hours later and it should be virtually the same, maybe .1v less, no
    : more.
    : > Reconnect the battery to the car and turn on the headlights on full bright
    : > for 10 minutes and every accessory in the car...if the battery dies in 10
    : > minutes replace the battery. Otherwise, battery voltage should remain
    : above
    : > 10.5 volts or so after this test. There are load testers available in auto
    : > parts stores for about $30 or so that will do a higher load test (couple
    : > hundred amps through a resistance load bank) in about 10-30 seconds
    : against
    : > a red/bad yellow/weak green/good voltage scale.
    : > If these tests still have you with a good battery, then you just have to
    : > trace down the current drain, circuit by circuit.
    : >
    : > Good luck,
    : >
    : > --
    : > -don
    : >
    : > '81 242t
    : > '89 744ti
    : >
    : >
    : >
    : > "AJ" <> wrote in message
    : > news:...
    : > > Still having the same problem. I do have the Green Book, for wiring.
    : > > And some non-auto electrical knowledge.
    : > > I guess I can start taking one of the wires off the possitive battery
    : > > terminal. The 780 has 6 feeds off the terminal.
    : > > What would one of you professionals do?
    : > > I know that I have a short to ground, somewhere.
    : > > I have plenty of time. Just wondering if there is a more systematic
    : > > way to do this. None of the door switch lights are bad.
    : > > I have removed the whole radio, equalizer, lighter assembly.
    : > > So, I have easy access to the fuse/relay panel.
    : > >
    : > > What a sweet car, I had it out today for a while. Runs fine.
    : > > Battery will last for a couple of days, then dead.
    : > > Had the battery tested today, it is fine and 6 months old.
    : > > Of course I had it on the charger for a few hours.
    : > >
    : > > Thanks, Again.
    : > >
    : > > AJ @ Home in Wisconsin
    : > > 1989 - 765 w/134k Miles
    : > > 1989 - 780T w/143k Miles
    : > > 1987 - 245 w/225k Sold
    : > > And the Wife's FORD is still going.
    : >
    : >
    :
    :
     
    Peter Milnes, Jan 25, 2004
    #4
  5. AJ

    Jim Kelly Guest

    Peter,

    I'm trying to understand this . . . why does a loose connection
    cause an additional drain on the battery?

    Thanks,

    Jim Kelly


    "Peter Milnes" <> wrote in message
    news:bv19t1$s57$...
    | This is most likely to be a loose connection from the +ve busbar
    inside the car
    | at top of bulkhead just under top of dashboard, or your +ve
    battery terminal is
    | loose. Check also for one of the feeds (you say there are six)
    from the battery
    | terminal with about one strand hanging on for dear life. If the
    battery goes
    | dead whilst car is in motion then you need a new battery as it may
    well have
    | enough sludge in the bottom to short out a cell or two, however it
    is very rare
    | for a battery to fail in this way, so best to check for loose
    connections as
    | mentioned above.
    |
    | Of course, there will be those who say damned Italian electricians
    (780s were
    | assembled in Italy).
    |
    | Cheers, Peter.
    |
    | "A Franken" <> wrote in message
    | news:bv0h0p$h46$1.nb.home.nl...
    | : Hi,
    | : Try your luck on the central locking system. I 've had this
    problem with
    | : several Volvos in the past and every time it was in this system.
    Water in
    | : the doors canb do the harm. Sometimes it will do when you drive
    about
    | : 40miles and make the car very hot inside. This will dry the
    doors.
    | :
    | :
    | : "don hodgdon" <> schreef in bericht
    | : news:qaHQb.49928$Xq2.38736@fed1read07...
    | : > Copied from the Brickboard FAQ:
    | : >
    | :
    http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/ElectricalStarting.htm#Slow Battery%
    | : > 20Discharge
    | : >
    | : > Slow Battery Discharge. [Query:] I am having an electrical
    problem with
    | : my
    | : > Volvo. About two months ago the battery went dead--slowly
    over time. It
    | : > was an old battery, so I though nothing of it and replaced it.
    All was
    | : good
    | : > for a month and a half, then it went dead again. With the
    car running I
    | : > measured 14volts across the terminals of the battery (12 when
    stopped) and
    | : > 14v off the main positive lead of the alternator. What is the
    problem
    | : here?
    | : > [Battery Drain Diagnostics: Response: Ross Gunn] To check to
    see if
    | : there
    | : > is something draining the battery while the key is off, remove
    the pos
    | : > battery terminal, and with an ammeter, measure to see if there
    is any
    | : > current flowing from the battery to the cable. If there is
    anything more
    | : > than a couple of milliamps, try removing fuses one at a time
    to see if you
    | : > can identify the circuit that is causing the drain. If this
    pins down a
    | : > problem, a little more sleuthing through the offending circuit
    should tell
    | : > you what needs to be done.
    | : > If there is no drain showing with the above test, the charging
    system is
    | : > suspect. Try measuring the voltage at the alternator output
    terminal and
    | : > battery pos terminal with all utilities (headlights, rear
    window heater,
    | : > fan etc.) on high. Any difference in reading indicates a poor
    connection
    | : > somewhere in the red cable from the alternator. Don't assume
    that a crimp
    | : > connection of a terminal on the cable is good. Corrosion can
    introduce
    | : > enough resistance to prevent proper (any?) charging when there
    is a
    | : > significant load on the system (cold, dark, wet/snowy winter
    evenings). I
    | : > have experienced this on a 20 year old Brick.
    | : >
    | : > [Battery Drain Diagnostics: Chris Bowne] I agree with Ross
    Gunn that the
    | : > best way to trouble shoot a discharging battery is to find the
    source with
    | : > the engine shut down and a multimeter (set to measure DC
    current) in
    | : series
    | : > with the positive battery terminal lead. Other places to
    check besides
    | : the
    | : > fuse block for drain paths are the alternator and voltage
    regulator (if
    | : not
    | : > internal to the alternator).
    | : > Disconnect/reconnect the connections on them, one at a time,
    and monitor
    | : for
    | : > drain. I had a problem on a Ford Taurus once where the voltage
    regulator
    | : had
    | : > shorted, and was the cause of the drain. You may or may not
    find a source
    | : of
    | : > a drain like this merely by pulling fuses. In fact, you could
    end up with
    | : > all the fuses pulled, and still have the drain, like I did!
    | : > Someone on an earlier posting of this thread mentioned
    checking to see if
    | : > his alternator was providing output by lifting the battery +
    terminal
    | : > connection WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING. DO NOT DO THIS! Many solid
    state
    | : > regulators will be damaged/destroyed by this condition. (And
    in turn may
    | : > compound the causes of the battery drain you are
    troubleshooting!)
    | : >
    | : > Battery Drain Tips. [Tip from JohnB] Check the specific
    gravity of the
    | : > cells...if they're accessible.
    | : > With a fully charged battery, either from your battery charger
    or the
    | : > alternator, disconnect the battery and measure the voltage,
    measure it
    | : again
    | : > 12 hours later and it should be virtually the same, maybe .1v
    less, no
    | : more.
    | : > Reconnect the battery to the car and turn on the headlights on
    full bright
    | : > for 10 minutes and every accessory in the car...if the battery
    dies in 10
    | : > minutes replace the battery. Otherwise, battery voltage should
    remain
    | : above
    | : > 10.5 volts or so after this test. There are load testers
    available in auto
    | : > parts stores for about $30 or so that will do a higher load
    test (couple
    | : > hundred amps through a resistance load bank) in about 10-30
    seconds
    | : against
    | : > a red/bad yellow/weak green/good voltage scale.
    | : > If these tests still have you with a good battery, then you
    just have to
    | : > trace down the current drain, circuit by circuit.
    | : >
    | : > Good luck,
    | : >
    | : > --
    | : > -don
    | : >
    | : > '81 242t
    | : > '89 744ti
    | : >
    | : >
    | : >
    | : > "AJ" <> wrote in message
    | : > news:...
    | : > > Still having the same problem. I do have the Green Book, for
    wiring.
    | : > > And some non-auto electrical knowledge.
    | : > > I guess I can start taking one of the wires off the
    possitive battery
    | : > > terminal. The 780 has 6 feeds off the terminal.
    | : > > What would one of you professionals do?
    | : > > I know that I have a short to ground, somewhere.
    | : > > I have plenty of time. Just wondering if there is a more
    systematic
    | : > > way to do this. None of the door switch lights are bad.
    | : > > I have removed the whole radio, equalizer, lighter assembly.
    | : > > So, I have easy access to the fuse/relay panel.
    | : > >
    | : > > What a sweet car, I had it out today for a while. Runs fine.
    | : > > Battery will last for a couple of days, then dead.
    | : > > Had the battery tested today, it is fine and 6 months old.
    | : > > Of course I had it on the charger for a few hours.
    | : > >
    | : > > Thanks, Again.
    | : > >
    | : > > AJ @ Home in Wisconsin
    | : > > 1989 - 765 w/134k Miles
    | : > > 1989 - 780T w/143k Miles
    | : > > 1987 - 245 w/225k Sold
    | : > > And the Wife's FORD is still going.
    | : >
    | : >
    | :
    | :
    |
     
    Jim Kelly, Jan 28, 2004
    #5
  6. AJ

    Peter Milnes Guest

    It doesn't cause additional drain, it prevents current flow so that everything
    downstream of the Battery seems dead. I had a very similar thing with an
    automatic MGF just before Christmas.

    Cheers, Peter.

    "Jim Kelly" <> wrote in message
    news:4017a00f$0$28869$...
    : Peter,
    :
    : I'm trying to understand this . . . why does a loose connection
    : cause an additional drain on the battery?
    :
    : Thanks,
    :
    : Jim Kelly
    :
    :
    : "Peter Milnes" <> wrote in message
    : news:bv19t1$s57$...
    : | This is most likely to be a loose connection from the +ve busbar
    : inside the car
    : | at top of bulkhead just under top of dashboard, or your +ve
    : battery terminal is
    : | loose. Check also for one of the feeds (you say there are six)
    : from the battery
    : | terminal with about one strand hanging on for dear life. If the
    : battery goes
    : | dead whilst car is in motion then you need a new battery as it may
    : well have
    : | enough sludge in the bottom to short out a cell or two, however it
    : is very rare
    : | for a battery to fail in this way, so best to check for loose
    : connections as
    : | mentioned above.
    : |
    : | Of course, there will be those who say damned Italian electricians
    : (780s were
    : | assembled in Italy).
    : |
    : | Cheers, Peter.
    : |
    : | "A Franken" <> wrote in message
    : | news:bv0h0p$h46$1.nb.home.nl...
    : | : Hi,
    : | : Try your luck on the central locking system. I 've had this
    : problem with
    : | : several Volvos in the past and every time it was in this system.
    : Water in
    : | : the doors canb do the harm. Sometimes it will do when you drive
    : about
    : | : 40miles and make the car very hot inside. This will dry the
    : doors.
    : | :
    : | :
    : | : "don hodgdon" <> schreef in bericht
    : | : news:qaHQb.49928$Xq2.38736@fed1read07...
    : | : > Copied from the Brickboard FAQ:
    : | : >
    : | :
    : http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/ElectricalStarting.htm#Slow Battery%
    : | : > 20Discharge
    : | : >
    : | : > Slow Battery Discharge. [Query:] I am having an electrical
    : problem with
    : | : my
    : | : > Volvo. About two months ago the battery went dead--slowly
    : over time. It
    : | : > was an old battery, so I though nothing of it and replaced it.
    : All was
    : | : good
    : | : > for a month and a half, then it went dead again. With the
    : car running I
    : | : > measured 14volts across the terminals of the battery (12 when
    : stopped) and
    : | : > 14v off the main positive lead of the alternator. What is the
    : problem
    : | : here?
    : | : > [Battery Drain Diagnostics: Response: Ross Gunn] To check to
    : see if
    : | : there
    : | : > is something draining the battery while the key is off, remove
    : the pos
    : | : > battery terminal, and with an ammeter, measure to see if there
    : is any
    : | : > current flowing from the battery to the cable. If there is
    : anything more
    : | : > than a couple of milliamps, try removing fuses one at a time
    : to see if you
    : | : > can identify the circuit that is causing the drain. If this
    : pins down a
    : | : > problem, a little more sleuthing through the offending circuit
    : should tell
    : | : > you what needs to be done.
    : | : > If there is no drain showing with the above test, the charging
    : system is
    : | : > suspect. Try measuring the voltage at the alternator output
    : terminal and
    : | : > battery pos terminal with all utilities (headlights, rear
    : window heater,
    : | : > fan etc.) on high. Any difference in reading indicates a poor
    : connection
    : | : > somewhere in the red cable from the alternator. Don't assume
    : that a crimp
    : | : > connection of a terminal on the cable is good. Corrosion can
    : introduce
    : | : > enough resistance to prevent proper (any?) charging when there
    : is a
    : | : > significant load on the system (cold, dark, wet/snowy winter
    : evenings). I
    : | : > have experienced this on a 20 year old Brick.
    : | : >
    : | : > [Battery Drain Diagnostics: Chris Bowne] I agree with Ross
    : Gunn that the
    : | : > best way to trouble shoot a discharging battery is to find the
    : source with
    : | : > the engine shut down and a multimeter (set to measure DC
    : current) in
    : | : series
    : | : > with the positive battery terminal lead. Other places to
    : check besides
    : | : the
    : | : > fuse block for drain paths are the alternator and voltage
    : regulator (if
    : | : not
    : | : > internal to the alternator).
    : | : > Disconnect/reconnect the connections on them, one at a time,
    : and monitor
    : | : for
    : | : > drain. I had a problem on a Ford Taurus once where the voltage
    : regulator
    : | : had
    : | : > shorted, and was the cause of the drain. You may or may not
    : find a source
    : | : of
    : | : > a drain like this merely by pulling fuses. In fact, you could
    : end up with
    : | : > all the fuses pulled, and still have the drain, like I did!
    : | : > Someone on an earlier posting of this thread mentioned
    : checking to see if
    : | : > his alternator was providing output by lifting the battery +
    : terminal
    : | : > connection WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING. DO NOT DO THIS! Many solid
    : state
    : | : > regulators will be damaged/destroyed by this condition. (And
    : in turn may
    : | : > compound the causes of the battery drain you are
    : troubleshooting!)
    : | : >
    : | : > Battery Drain Tips. [Tip from JohnB] Check the specific
    : gravity of the
    : | : > cells...if they're accessible.
    : | : > With a fully charged battery, either from your battery charger
    : or the
    : | : > alternator, disconnect the battery and measure the voltage,
    : measure it
    : | : again
    : | : > 12 hours later and it should be virtually the same, maybe .1v
    : less, no
    : | : more.
    : | : > Reconnect the battery to the car and turn on the headlights on
    : full bright
    : | : > for 10 minutes and every accessory in the car...if the battery
    : dies in 10
    : | : > minutes replace the battery. Otherwise, battery voltage should
    : remain
    : | : above
    : | : > 10.5 volts or so after this test. There are load testers
    : available in auto
    : | : > parts stores for about $30 or so that will do a higher load
    : test (couple
    : | : > hundred amps through a resistance load bank) in about 10-30
    : seconds
    : | : against
    : | : > a red/bad yellow/weak green/good voltage scale.
    : | : > If these tests still have you with a good battery, then you
    : just have to
    : | : > trace down the current drain, circuit by circuit.
    : | : >
    : | : > Good luck,
    : | : >
    : | : > --
    : | : > -don
    : | : >
    : | : > '81 242t
    : | : > '89 744ti
    : | : >
    : | : >
    : | : >
    : | : > "AJ" <> wrote in message
    : | : > news:...
    : | : > > Still having the same problem. I do have the Green Book, for
    : wiring.
    : | : > > And some non-auto electrical knowledge.
    : | : > > I guess I can start taking one of the wires off the
    : possitive battery
    : | : > > terminal. The 780 has 6 feeds off the terminal.
    : | : > > What would one of you professionals do?
    : | : > > I know that I have a short to ground, somewhere.
    : | : > > I have plenty of time. Just wondering if there is a more
    : systematic
    : | : > > way to do this. None of the door switch lights are bad.
    : | : > > I have removed the whole radio, equalizer, lighter assembly.
    : | : > > So, I have easy access to the fuse/relay panel.
    : | : > >
    : | : > > What a sweet car, I had it out today for a while. Runs fine.
    : | : > > Battery will last for a couple of days, then dead.
    : | : > > Had the battery tested today, it is fine and 6 months old.
    : | : > > Of course I had it on the charger for a few hours.
    : | : > >
    : | : > > Thanks, Again.
    : | : > >
    : | : > > AJ @ Home in Wisconsin
    : | : > > 1989 - 765 w/134k Miles
    : | : > > 1989 - 780T w/143k Miles
    : | : > > 1987 - 245 w/225k Sold
    : | : > > And the Wife's FORD is still going.
    : | : >
    : | : >
    : | :
    : | :
    : |
    :
     
    Peter Milnes, Jan 29, 2004
    #6
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