My "New" 240

Discussion in 'Volvo 240' started by tlr1000, Feb 2, 2007.

  1. tlr1000

    tlr1000 Guest

    Hi,
    My wife finally let me purchase a 1990 Volvo 240 DL for a commuter car
    because she won't give up her V70. I have a few questions about the
    240.

    I'm going to be commuting about 400 miles a week and it already has
    152,000 on it. What sort of issues should I be on the look out for,
    such as electrical, mechanical?

    Also, what type of oil are you other 240 owners using and on what type
    of schedule are your performing these changes?

    If I've forgotten something please feel free to include any comments.

    Thanks in advance!
     
    tlr1000, Feb 2, 2007
    #1
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  2. tlr1000

    z Guest

    On Feb 2, 12:27 pm, "tlr1000" <> wrote:
    > Hi,
    > My wife finally let me purchase a 1990 Volvo 240 DL for a commuter car
    > because she won't give up her V70. I have a few questions about the
    > 240.
    >
    > I'm going to be commuting about 400 miles a week and it already has
    > 152,000 on it. What sort of issues should I be on the look out for,
    > such as electrical, mechanical?
    >
    > Also, what type of oil are you other 240 owners using and on what type
    > of schedule are your performing these changes?
    >
    > If I've forgotten something please feel free to include any comments.
    >
    > Thanks in advance!


    Mechanicals will last a looooong time, which leaves electrical
    problems as the biggest worry, by default. Chafing insulation, that
    kind of thing. The worst problem would seem to be the heater/AC blower
    motor, first getting noisy, then seizing; apparently they are not very
    easy to access. Next thing, as I discovered, is if you don't maintain
    the flame trap, all your seals and gaskets will blow out. You don't
    want that. Look it up.

    I use one of those oils for older engines, No particular hard evidence
    or reason, it just seems appropriate. I forget the brand? probably
    either castrol or valvoline, i would be unlikely to use quaker state
    or some other brand. Change every three months, mostly because that's
    easy to remember rather than trying to keep track of the mileage to
    save a few bucks per month.
     
    z, Feb 2, 2007
    #2
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  3. tlr1000

    tlr1000 Guest

    Thanks, I never would have know about the flame trap. I've read that
    it may not even be necessary, but I'll ask a mechanic.
     
    tlr1000, Feb 2, 2007
    #3
  4. tlr1000

    James Sweet Guest

    tlr1000 wrote:
    > Hi,
    > My wife finally let me purchase a 1990 Volvo 240 DL for a commuter car
    > because she won't give up her V70. I have a few questions about the
    > 240.
    >
    > I'm going to be commuting about 400 miles a week and it already has
    > 152,000 on it. What sort of issues should I be on the look out for,
    > such as electrical, mechanical?
    >
    > Also, what type of oil are you other 240 owners using and on what type
    > of schedule are your performing these changes?
    >
    > If I've forgotten something please feel free to include any comments.
    >
    > Thanks in advance!
    >



    There's a FAQ on this. Clean/replace the flame trap, check all the
    vacuum hoses, change the coolant, transmission fluid, rear end lube, and
    power steering fluid if you want to get fancy.

    Use quality ordinary 10W30 motor oil and more importantly, a *good*
    filter such as Volvo or Mann. Change the oil every 4,000-5,000 miles and
    you'll be fine. If you drive it very hard or in dusty conditions you
    might wish to do 3,000 mile intervals but even if you changed it at
    15,000 miles the interior will probably crumble before the motor dies,
    those B230F engines are tougher than cockroaches.
     
    James Sweet, Feb 3, 2007
    #4
  5. tlr1000

    James Sweet Guest

    tlr1000 wrote:
    > Thanks, I never would have know about the flame trap. I've read that
    > it may not even be necessary, but I'll ask a mechanic.
    >
    >



    Don't chance it, it takes 10 minutes to clean the flame trap or 10 bucks
    to replace it and you don't even need any tools. Do it yearly and rest
    easy. If it clogs it will cost you anywhere from $300-$2,500 to have a
    mechanic replace the oil seals, depending on how many blow out, the rear
    main requires removal of the transmission to get at. When the seals blow
    you lose oil so fast you'll think the drain plug fell out.
     
    James Sweet, Feb 3, 2007
    #5
  6. tlr1000

    tlr1000 Guest

    I appreciate all the info and will definitely keep it clean.
     
    tlr1000, Feb 3, 2007
    #6
  7. tlr1000

    z Guest

    On Feb 2, 7:04 pm, James Sweet <> wrote:
    > tlr1000 wrote:
    > > Thanks, I never would have know about the flame trap. I've read that
    > > it may not even be necessary, but I'll ask a mechanic.

    >
    > Don't chance it, it takes 10 minutes to clean the flame trap or 10 bucks
    > to replace it and you don't even need any tools. Do it yearly and rest
    > easy. If it clogs it will cost you anywhere from $300-$2,500 to have a
    > mechanic replace the oil seals, depending on how many blow out, the rear
    > main requires removal of the transmission to get at. When the seals blow
    > you lose oil so fast you'll think the drain plug fell out.


    If you're lucky. Cost me a cool grand; not including the rear main
    seal.
     
    z, Feb 5, 2007
    #7
  8. tlr1000

    Mr. V Guest

    Things to keep an eye on:

    Wiring harness in engine compartment. If it begins to fail, wierd
    symptoms can develop.

    Water pumps seem to go out more frequently than I would expect.

    Alternator: if it is original, prepare for issues.
     
    Mr. V, Feb 5, 2007
    #8
  9. tlr1000

    z Guest

    On Feb 5, 12:10 pm, "Mr. V" <> wrote:
    > Things to keep an eye on:
    >
    > Wiring harness in engine compartment. If it begins to fail, wierd
    > symptoms can develop.
    >
    > Water pumps seem to go out more frequently than I would expect.
    >
    > Alternator: if it is original, prepare for issues.


    Also, the power steering pump runs off the A/C compressor pulley, so
    if you intend to keep your power steering, you will be needing to fix
    the compressor if it ever goes.
     
    z, Feb 6, 2007
    #9
  10. tlr1000

    James Sweet Guest

    z wrote:
    > On Feb 5, 12:10 pm, "Mr. V" <> wrote:
    >
    >>Things to keep an eye on:
    >>
    >>Wiring harness in engine compartment. If it begins to fail, wierd
    >>symptoms can develop.
    >>
    >>Water pumps seem to go out more frequently than I would expect.
    >>
    >>Alternator: if it is original, prepare for issues.

    >
    >
    > Also, the power steering pump runs off the A/C compressor pulley, so
    > if you intend to keep your power steering, you will be needing to fix
    > the compressor if it ever goes.
    >



    Well if the AC clutch fails you lose power steering, of course you can
    get a bracket to relocate the pump and not use the AC but it's nice to
    have working AC anyway.

    Almost every alternator failure I've ever seen has been the replaceable
    regulator/brushpack on the back of it.
     
    James Sweet, Feb 7, 2007
    #10
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