picked up my new 1985 240 DL Wagon today

Discussion in 'Volvo 240' started by Jamie, Feb 15, 2007.

  1. Jamie

    Jamie Guest

    I finally finished the paperwork and brought the car home today. I'm
    thankful the engine is the same B230F as my 1987 740. Now the question
    is, "where to begin?"

    The oil leak is the obvious so I think I'll start there. I jacked up
    the car and crawled underneath - looks like I'll have to pull some
    body armor off to access the oil pan bolts to tighten.

    On top of the engine the early plan is to replace the plugs, wires,
    rotor and cap. Replace the flame trap and clean the breather box.
    Replace air filter. Clean throttle body. Check vacuum hoses.

    Question: Above and to the right of the oil filter is some type of
    plug/sensor. There is exposed wire going into that sensor. Is that
    some type of oil pressure sensor? Expensive to replace?

    Well, that's where I am now. It's deja vu all over again in the
    garage.

    LOL

    PS: I need to get a Bentley manual. Are they much better than Haynes?

    Thanks,
    Jamie
     
    Jamie, Feb 15, 2007
    #1
  2. Jamie

    zoltamatron Guest

    Yes.....the bentley manual is well worth the $50. It is MUCH better
    than the haynes manual. You will however find that repairs cost you
    more with the bentley manual since it tells you the right way to do
    things, all the proper hardware to replace, etc.
     
    zoltamatron, Feb 15, 2007
    #2
  3. Jamie

    clay Guest

    Cylindrical object with a single male spade connector coming out the
    middle? That would be *the* oil pressure sender.
    If it works, don't fix it.
     
    clay, Feb 15, 2007
    #3
  4. Jamie

    Jamie Guest

    Just curious, if the oil pressure sender was faulty, what would the
    signs be?

    Thanks,
    Jamie
     
    Jamie, Feb 15, 2007
    #4
  5. Jamie

    clay Guest

    In mine, it's an idiot light... the light would stay on. Which is what
    happens every time the spade connector wiggles loose.

    If the light comes on when the ignition is turned on and goes off soon
    as the motor lights, all is well.
     
    clay, Feb 15, 2007
    #5
  6. Jamie

    James Sweet Guest

    That's the oil pressure sender, it also has a connection to control the
    idiot light in the instrument cluster. The sensors can fail, but usually
    it's just the wiring that crumbles, that's part of the infamous engine
    wiring harness.
     
    James Sweet, Feb 15, 2007
    #6
  7. Jamie

    James Sweet Guest

    The guage will read incorrectly or be pegged, and the idiot light will
    either be stuck on, or will not come on at all.
     
    James Sweet, Feb 15, 2007
    #7
  8. Jamie

    Mr. V Guest

    Other things to do:

    Replace gas filter

    Replace all fluids: coolant, power steering, transmission, rear end

    Check and if necessary replace belts / hoses

    Examine condition of timing belt and replace if necessary

    Replace fuel injector seal(s) and clean / test injectors

    Lubricate all areas of car which require lube
     
    Mr. V, Feb 15, 2007
    #8
  9. Jamie

    Roadie Guest

    Check around the valve cover for leaks first.
    Drain and replace ALL fluids and replace any filters.
    Replace ALL belts.
    Why do you want to replace it.

    Sggest that you get Volvo manuals.
     
    Roadie, Feb 15, 2007
    #9
  10. Jamie

    blurp Guest

    The valve cover goes on with a thin gasket and a rubber "half-moon
    seal". If the half moon falls out/fails then oil will leak down the
    back of the engine while driving. It's about a half inch thick
    half-circle with a diameter of about one inch.
     
    blurp, Feb 15, 2007
    #10
  11. Jamie

    Perk Guest

    Degrease the engine area first, so that you, hopefully, can see where
    the oil is leaking from.

    Perk :)>)
     
    Perk, Feb 15, 2007
    #11
  12. Jamie

    Jamie Guest

    Thanks all for the input. As far as my oil leak, I was able to isolate
    it to the front passenger side corner of the oil pan. That was the
    "street assessment" and I need to get the car jacked up to see it
    closer.

    My plan is to do the obvious tune up I mentioned, to make sure the
    engine is at least starting and idling smoothly, and without any
    excess pressure from something like the flame trap.
    it is indeed the oil pan gasket, I am trying to get an understanding
    of just how hard the job is. I've thumbed through my 1987 740 Haynes
    manual because it's the same B230F engine as the 1985 240.

    I understand the process of jacking up the car, remove the dipstick,
    disconnect part of the exhaust and steering, remove the body guard,
    unbolt the motor mounts, lift the engine, remove the oil pan and
    replace the gasket. This is a broad overview.

    My curiosity is, how hard is it to remove the splash pan? Are the
    bolts on the oil pan all easy to get to? Is it tricky to unbolt the
    motor mounts?

    I remember changing the blower motor in my 740. It looked easy in the
    book, until I couldn't get to all of the bolts. The second time was
    fine because I did it before, and the 740 was much better than I hear
    the 240 is. Still, the plan looked easy but was a pain in the butt
    because of minor things.

    Thanks!

    Jamie
     
    Jamie, Feb 15, 2007
    #12
  13. Jamie

    James Sweet Guest


    None of the bolts are hard to get to, there are a few on the oil pan
    that will be blocked by the crossmember, but you can reach them with a
    standard box end wrench. Splash pan is held on by half a dozen bolts in
    plain view.
     
    James Sweet, Feb 16, 2007
    #13
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