Water Leak Source?

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by zencraps@comcast.net, Mar 1, 2006.

  1. Guest

    Just bought an '85 245 DL for $470, a project car for the eventual use
    of my son.

    Engine, transmission, suspension, body are sound, lots of niggling
    problems from benign neglect.

    Car was not driven for a few years until recently.

    Has third row seat: when lifted seat up, found water pooled underneath.

    I can see no source / cause of leakeage to allow water to enter; could
    it somehow have seeped in through a weak rear door / tailgate seal?

    Headliner looks like new, no stain or moisture.

    Baffled...
     
    , Mar 1, 2006
    #1
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  2. M-gineering Guest

    wrote:
    > Just bought an '85 245 DL for $470, a project car for the eventual use
    > of my son.
    >
    > Engine, transmission, suspension, body are sound, lots of niggling
    > problems from benign neglect.
    >
    > Car was not driven for a few years until recently.
    >
    > Has third row seat: when lifted seat up, found water pooled underneath.
    >
    > I can see no source / cause of leakeage to allow water to enter; could
    > it somehow have seeped in through a weak rear door / tailgate seal?
    >
    > Headliner looks like new, no stain or moisture.
    >
    > Baffled...
    >

    Wheelwells L + R. Look behind the spare etc

    --
    ---
    Marten
     
    M-gineering, Mar 1, 2006
    #2
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  3. James Sweet Guest

    wrote:
    > Just bought an '85 245 DL for $470, a project car for the eventual use
    > of my son.
    >
    > Engine, transmission, suspension, body are sound, lots of niggling
    > problems from benign neglect.
    >
    > Car was not driven for a few years until recently.
    >
    > Has third row seat: when lifted seat up, found water pooled underneath.
    >
    > I can see no source / cause of leakeage to allow water to enter; could
    > it somehow have seeped in through a weak rear door / tailgate seal?
    >
    > Headliner looks like new, no stain or moisture.
    >
    > Baffled...
    >



    There's a couple places I've seen water enter 245s. The most common are
    the rear side windows in the cargo area. Water tends to collect on the
    ridge of the body underneath the rubber seal around the glass and rusts
    out the metal there which results in poor rubber to metal seal and water
    entering the car. Another thing to check is the seal around the
    tailgate, and also the rubber gaskets on the hinges. Oh and does the car
    have a roof rack?
     
    James Sweet, Mar 1, 2006
    #3
  4. Guest

    Yes, it has a roof rack.
     
    , Mar 1, 2006
    #4
  5. User Guest

    In article <>,
    says...
    > Yes, it has a roof rack.
    >
    >

    Under each of the brackets for the rack there are or should be 1/2"
    Wellnuts. A top hat shaped molded rubber plug formed around a ca[tive
    nut. When placed in a sheet metal hole as an anchor that abuts a piiece
    to be secured, when the screw pulls the piece together by drawing up on
    the nut the rubber both compresses and expands in the hole to form a
    water tight seal. Over time the rubber shrinks and the seal is no longer
    water tight.

    Unless your wagon was built in New Brunswick (VIN plant code 3, i.e
    YV1AX8854F(3)xxxxxx) then it leaks atthe rear quarter glass. Only the
    Canadian built cars didn't leak.

    Bob


    --
    The goal when driving is to miss the maximum number of objects.
     
    User, Mar 2, 2006
    #5
  6. Guest

    VIN is YV1AX8859F160****
     
    , Mar 2, 2006
    #6
  7. User Guest

    In article <>,
    says...
    > VIN is YV1AX8859F160****
    >
    >

    So it was built in Torslanda and it leaks.

    Bob
    --
    The goal when driving is to miss the maximum number of objects.
     
    User, Mar 2, 2006
    #7
  8. Guest

    Man, as I tear into this beast, I note the carpet is also damp under
    the driver's feet.

    Not good.

    Got to replace the passenger side window mechanism, and the rear
    tailgate lock: both were bent and rendered useless.

    What is the best way to cure the leaking, hopefully without removing
    the glass?

    This car won't be cherried out, it will be for commuting to work, so a
    silicone bead visible on the outside is OK.
     
    , Mar 2, 2006
    #8
  9. User Guest

    In article <>,
    says...
    > Man, as I tear into this beast, I note the carpet is also damp under
    > the driver's feet.
    >
    > Not good.
    >
    > Got to replace the passenger side window mechanism, and the rear
    > tailgate lock: both were bent and rendered useless.
    >
    > What is the best way to cure the leaking, hopefully without removing
    > the glass?
    >
    > This car won't be cherried out, it will be for commuting to work, so a
    > silicone bead visible on the outside is OK.
    >
    >

    It's ugly as sin but you can use a tube of clear silicon sealer. Lift up
    the trim, gently, and run a bead along the edge of the glass to the body
    and work your way all around the perimeter of the windshield. Mostly
    windshield leaks are around the bottom when the glass shifts forward
    away from the butyl tape as it ages. Sometimes yiu'll get a small void
    on the side or at the top, so without tracking it down or replacing the
    butyl tape, you might as well go all the way 'round.

    Bob
    --
    The goal when driving is to miss the maximum number of objects.
     
    User, Mar 3, 2006
    #9
  10. "User" <> wrote in message
    news:...
    > In article <>,
    > says...
    >> Man, as I tear into this beast, I note the carpet is also damp under
    >> the driver's feet.
    >>
    >> Not good.
    >>
    >> Got to replace the passenger side window mechanism, and the rear
    >> tailgate lock: both were bent and rendered useless.
    >>
    >> What is the best way to cure the leaking, hopefully without removing
    >> the glass?
    >>
    >> This car won't be cherried out, it will be for commuting to work, so a
    >> silicone bead visible on the outside is OK.
    >>
    >>

    > It's ugly as sin but you can use a tube of clear silicon sealer. Lift up
    > the trim, gently, and run a bead along the edge of the glass to the body
    > and work your way all around the perimeter of the windshield. Mostly
    > windshield leaks are around the bottom when the glass shifts forward
    > away from the butyl tape as it ages. Sometimes yiu'll get a small void
    > on the side or at the top, so without tracking it down or replacing the
    > butyl tape, you might as well go all the way 'round.
    >
    > Bob
    > --
    > The goal when driving is to miss the maximum number of objects.


    Recently I've been seeing "windshield sealer" at auto parts stores. It's
    like regular clear silicone sealant but actually flows into cracks. It's at
    least as messy as silicone sealant but it does a better job for gaps.

    Mike
     
    Michael Pardee, Mar 3, 2006
    #10
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