High idle on 340

Only when engine is hot, idle up to almost 1000 rpm (very hot) since 400
when is cold. Why could it is?, Engine is 1.7 with solex carb. Trothle is
adjust at min.

How can I adjust mixture?

thanks

"C.M.F." <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
news:1VVWe.3921054$(E-Mail Removed) s...
> Only when engine is hot, idle up to almost 1000 rpm (very hot) since 400
> when is cold. Why could it is?, Engine is 1.7 with solex carb. Trothle is
> adjust at min.
>
> How can I adjust mixture?
>
> thanks

Warped base of carb. I'll put money (and lots of it) on that being your
problem.

Tim..

I have just tighened screws of the carb to base and it improves. So you are
right. Thanks.

What about adjust mixture?



"Tim (remove obvious)" <(E-Mail Removed)> escribió en el
mensaje news:dghsji$6bp$(E-Mail Removed)...
>
> "C.M.F." <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
> news:1VVWe.3921054$(E-Mail Removed) s...
> > Only when engine is hot, idle up to almost 1000 rpm (very hot) since 400
> > when is cold. Why could it is?, Engine is 1.7 with solex carb. Trothle
is
> > adjust at min.
> >
> > How can I adjust mixture?
> >
> > thanks
>
> Warped base of carb. I'll put money (and lots of it) on that being your
> problem.
>
> Tim..
>
>
>

Do NOT overtighten because all you will do is warp the carb base even more
than it is.

This is a very common issue with the Solex and Weber carbs, cost cutting by
Renault is my guess. At the base of the carb is a 1/2 inch thick (or
thereabouts) gasket that was supposedly designed to get around the carb base
bowing, it was never particularly successful. This gasket costs something
stupid like £80 and must be replaced each time the carb is removed.

If the problem returns (and I hate to be the forbearer of bad tidings) but
it could well do so then retightening the bolts is likely to make the matter
worse. You may get away with a replacement gasket, it depends on how badly
warped the carb base is.

The carb base is already on the thin side which does not help the bowing
issue so having the bottom of the base milled is also likely only to be a
temporary fix (and you will still need a new base gasket.

Unless someone knows of a fix (PLEASE LET ME KNOW) you mare heading for a
replacement carb.

A possible alternative is to get a carb AND inlet manifold TOGETHER from a
breakers like CP Motors 01827 331 402, NorthWest Motor TRading 01942 322 880
or Braydon Motors 0208 985 2266, there are probably others but these guys
specialise in breaking up Volvos (CP Motors I found out recently also do
servicing). Cricial that the carb and manifold are NOT seperated and then
all you will need is a manifold to block gasket which will set you back
around a tenner.

If you try and seal the carb base with some sort of gunge I was told by a
Volvo techie that this should be an absolute last resort only job as the
petrol vapoyr usually breaks down whatever sealer you yse and bits of the
sealer end up inside the carbs jets.

We went down the replacement manifold/carb route and with a manifold and
carb from NWMotor Trading for about £80 all up. It came of a good running
1.7 but even that is after 4 years presenting the same problem. We have
come to live with it.

Andy




"C.M.F." <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
news:UO_We.3924745$(E-Mail Removed) s...
>I have just tighened screws of the carb to base and it improves. So you are
> right. Thanks.
>
> What about adjust mixture?
>
>
>
> "Tim (remove obvious)" <(E-Mail Removed)> escribió en
> el
> mensaje news:dghsji$6bp$(E-Mail Removed)...
>>
>> "C.M.F." <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
>> news:1VVWe.3921054$(E-Mail Removed) s...
>> > Only when engine is hot, idle up to almost 1000 rpm (very hot) since
>> > 400
>> > when is cold. Why could it is?, Engine is 1.7 with solex carb. Trothle
> is
>> > adjust at min.
>> >
>> > How can I adjust mixture?
>> >
>> > thanks
>>
>> Warped base of carb. I'll put money (and lots of it) on that being your
>> problem.
>>
>> Tim..
>>
>>
>>
>
>

"Andy" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
news:432d32f7$0$3624$(E-Mail Removed). ..
> Do NOT overtighten because all you will do is warp the carb base even more
> than it is.
>
> This is a very common issue with the Solex and Weber carbs, cost cutting
> by Renault is my guess. At the base of the carb is a 1/2 inch thick (or
> thereabouts) gasket that was supposedly designed to get around the carb
> base bowing, it was never particularly successful. This gasket costs
> something stupid like £80 and must be replaced each time the carb is
> removed.
>
> If the problem returns (and I hate to be the forbearer of bad tidings) but
> it could well do so then retightening the bolts is likely to make the
> matter worse. You may get away with a replacement gasket, it depends on
> how badly warped the carb base is.
>
> The carb base is already on the thin side which does not help the bowing
> issue so having the bottom of the base milled is also likely only to be a
> temporary fix (and you will still need a new base gasket.
>
> Unless someone knows of a fix (PLEASE LET ME KNOW) you mare heading for a
> replacement carb.
>
> A possible alternative is to get a carb AND inlet manifold TOGETHER from a
> breakers like CP Motors 01827 331 402, NorthWest Motor TRading 01942 322
> 880 or Braydon Motors 0208 985 2266, there are probably others but these
> guys specialise in breaking up Volvos (CP Motors I found out recently also
> do servicing). Cricial that the carb and manifold are NOT seperated and
> then all you will need is a manifold to block gasket which will set you
> back around a tenner.
>

Hi all,

Further to my previous post, and Andy's lengthy reply, it is possible to use
the carb and manifold from a Renault 1.7 from either the R19 or 21 with some
modication. You need the 1.7 energy engine though, which has a much better
twin barrel Weber carb.

It will need re-routing of vacuum pipes, and some blanking off for it to
work though, but once fitted and working is warpy-base free.

Tim..

"Andy" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
news:432d32f7$0$3624$(E-Mail Removed). ..
> Do NOT overtighten because all you will do is warp the carb base even more
> than it is.
>
> This is a very common issue with the Solex and Weber carbs, cost cutting
> by Renault is my guess. At the base of the carb is a 1/2 inch thick (or
> thereabouts) gasket that was supposedly designed to get around the carb
> base bowing, it was never particularly successful. This gasket costs
> something stupid like £80 and must be replaced each time the carb is
> removed.
>
> If the problem returns (and I hate to be the forbearer of bad tidings) but
> it could well do so then retightening the bolts is likely to make the
> matter worse. You may get away with a replacement gasket, it depends on
> how badly warped the carb base is.
>
> The carb base is already on the thin side which does not help the bowing
> issue so having the bottom of the base milled is also likely only to be a
> temporary fix (and you will still need a new base gasket.
>
> Unless someone knows of a fix (PLEASE LET ME KNOW) you mare heading for a
> replacement carb.
>
> A possible alternative is to get a carb AND inlet manifold TOGETHER from a
> breakers like CP Motors 01827 331 402, NorthWest Motor TRading 01942 322
> 880 or Braydon Motors 0208 985 2266, there are probably others but these
> guys specialise in breaking up Volvos (CP Motors I found out recently also
> do servicing). Cricial that the carb and manifold are NOT seperated and
> then all you will need is a manifold to block gasket which will set you
> back around a tenner.
>
> If you try and seal the carb base with some sort of gunge I was told by a
> Volvo techie that this should be an absolute last resort only job as the
> petrol vapoyr usually breaks down whatever sealer you yse and bits of the
> sealer end up inside the carbs jets.
>
> We went down the replacement manifold/carb route and with a manifold and
> carb from NWMotor Trading for about £80 all up. It came of a good running
> 1.7 but even that is after 4 years presenting the same problem. We have
> come to live with it.
>
> Andy
>
>

Hi all,

Further to my previous post, and Andy's lengthy reply, it is possible to use
the carb and manifold from a Renault 1.7 from either the R19 or 21 with some
modication. You need the 1.7 energy engine though, which has a much better
twin barrel Weber carb.

It will need re-routing of vacuum pipes, and some blanking off for it to
work though, but once fitted and working is warpy-base free.

Tim..

We have the Weber carb. Usually Weber are a good name in carbs. The ones
fitted to the 1.7 volvo/Renaylt engine has this weakness. Pity cos the
engine (107k miles) goes like a steam train.

Andy
"Tim (remove obvious)" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in
message news:dgjf31$7a9$(E-Mail Removed)...
>
> "Andy" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
> news:432d32f7$0$3624$(E-Mail Removed). ..
>> Do NOT overtighten because all you will do is warp the carb base even
>> more than it is.
>>
>> This is a very common issue with the Solex and Weber carbs, cost cutting
>> by Renault is my guess. At the base of the carb is a 1/2 inch thick (or
>> thereabouts) gasket that was supposedly designed to get around the carb
>> base bowing, it was never particularly successful. This gasket costs
>> something stupid like £80 and must be replaced each time the carb is
>> removed.
>>
>> If the problem returns (and I hate to be the forbearer of bad tidings)
>> but it could well do so then retightening the bolts is likely to make the
>> matter worse. You may get away with a replacement gasket, it depends on
>> how badly warped the carb base is.
>>
>> The carb base is already on the thin side which does not help the bowing
>> issue so having the bottom of the base milled is also likely only to be a
>> temporary fix (and you will still need a new base gasket.
>>
>> Unless someone knows of a fix (PLEASE LET ME KNOW) you mare heading for a
>> replacement carb.
>>
>> A possible alternative is to get a carb AND inlet manifold TOGETHER from
>> a breakers like CP Motors 01827 331 402, NorthWest Motor TRading 01942
>> 322 880 or Braydon Motors 0208 985 2266, there are probably others but
>> these guys specialise in breaking up Volvos (CP Motors I found out
>> recently also do servicing). Cricial that the carb and manifold are NOT
>> seperated and then all you will need is a manifold to block gasket which
>> will set you back around a tenner.
>>
>> If you try and seal the carb base with some sort of gunge I was told by a
>> Volvo techie that this should be an absolute last resort only job as the
>> petrol vapoyr usually breaks down whatever sealer you yse and bits of the
>> sealer end up inside the carbs jets.
>>
>> We went down the replacement manifold/carb route and with a manifold and
>> carb from NWMotor Trading for about £80 all up. It came of a good
>> running 1.7 but even that is after 4 years presenting the same problem.
>> We have come to live with it.
>>
>> Andy
>>
>>
>
> Hi all,
>
> Further to my previous post, and Andy's lengthy reply, it is possible to
> use
> the carb and manifold from a Renault 1.7 from either the R19 or 21 with
> some
> modication. You need the 1.7 energy engine though, which has a much better
> twin barrel Weber carb.
>
> It will need re-routing of vacuum pipes, and some blanking off for it to
> work though, but once fitted and working is warpy-base free.
>
> Tim..
>
>

Thanks at all for yours advices, they are very interestings and useful.


"Tim (remove obvious)" <(E-Mail Removed)> escribió en el
mensaje news:dgjf31$7a9$(E-Mail Removed)...
>
> "Andy" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
> news:432d32f7$0$3624$(E-Mail Removed). ..
> > Do NOT overtighten because all you will do is warp the carb base even
more
> > than it is.
> >
> > This is a very common issue with the Solex and Weber carbs, cost cutting
> > by Renault is my guess. At the base of the carb is a 1/2 inch thick (or
> > thereabouts) gasket that was supposedly designed to get around the carb
> > base bowing, it was never particularly successful. This gasket costs
> > something stupid like £80 and must be replaced each time the carb is
> > removed.
> >
> > If the problem returns (and I hate to be the forbearer of bad tidings)
but
> > it could well do so then retightening the bolts is likely to make the
> > matter worse. You may get away with a replacement gasket, it depends on
> > how badly warped the carb base is.
> >
> > The carb base is already on the thin side which does not help the bowing
> > issue so having the bottom of the base milled is also likely only to be
a
> > temporary fix (and you will still need a new base gasket.
> >
> > Unless someone knows of a fix (PLEASE LET ME KNOW) you mare heading for
a
> > replacement carb.
> >
> > A possible alternative is to get a carb AND inlet manifold TOGETHER from
a
> > breakers like CP Motors 01827 331 402, NorthWest Motor TRading 01942 322
> > 880 or Braydon Motors 0208 985 2266, there are probably others but these
> > guys specialise in breaking up Volvos (CP Motors I found out recently
also
> > do servicing). Cricial that the carb and manifold are NOT seperated and
> > then all you will need is a manifold to block gasket which will set you
> > back around a tenner.
> >
>
> Hi all,
>
> Further to my previous post, and Andy's lengthy reply, it is possible to
use
> the carb and manifold from a Renault 1.7 from either the R19 or 21 with
some
> modication. You need the 1.7 energy engine though, which has a much better
> twin barrel Weber carb.
>
> It will need re-routing of vacuum pipes, and some blanking off for it to
> work though, but once fitted and working is warpy-base free.
>
> Tim..
>
>
>
>
>

"Tim \(remove obvious\)" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:

>> This is a very common issue with the Solex and Weber carbs, cost cutting
>> by Renault is my guess. At the base of the carb is a 1/2 inch thick (or
>> thereabouts) gasket that was supposedly designed to get around the carb
>> base bowing, it was never particularly successful. This gasket costs
>> something stupid like £80 and must be replaced each time the carb is
>> removed.
>>

mind you, I have not worked on these specific carbs but do have some
Solex experience.

Is it actually a gasket, or is it a hard, lastic spacer. usually the
"thick" gaskets are a heat speacer made to insulate the carbh from teh
heat of the intake manifold when the car is turned off after a hot
drive. If that is the case, I would find some gasket material to make
gaskets for both sides.

Another alternative- thoroughly clean the carb base and manifold. Wrap
the bottom of the carb in some stretchy plastic or shrink wrap and do
the same on the intake manifold. Use some JB Weld, put a thin coat on
the gasket and assemble with the least amount of torque possible. Wait
until it hardens, then disassemble, remove the plastic wrap, and
reassemble.

Are there no gas-resistant sealnts? I seem to rmember some epoxy made
to seal gas tanks and such, or even use something like Kreem or other
tank liner material to build up a gasket to form fit the warpage.

Just brainstorming... maybe more the later than the former....


__ __
Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
\__/olvos
'90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate
"Shelby" & "Kate"

On Sat, 17 Sep 2005 19:59:46 +0000 (UTC), "Tim \(remove obvious\)"
<(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:
>"C.M.F." <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
>news:1VVWe.3921054$(E-Mail Removed). es...
>> Only when engine is hot, idle up to almost 1000 rpm (very hot) since 400
>> when is cold. Why could it is?, Engine is 1.7 with solex carb. Trothle is
>> adjust at min.
>> How can I adjust mixture?
>> thanks
>Warped base of carb. I'll put money (and lots of it) on that being your
>problem.
>Tim..

I had an opel kadett long time ago. Wasn't running well. I wanted to
look in the carb, lifted the airfilter and the whole carb came with
it! Was standing completely loose!

Pi