89-780 Battery drains While parked?

Still having the same problem. I do have the Green Book, for wiring.
And some non-auto electrical knowledge.
I guess I can start taking one of the wires off the possitive battery
terminal. The 780 has 6 feeds off the terminal.
What would one of you professionals do?
I know that I have a short to ground, somewhere.
I have plenty of time. Just wondering if there is a more systematic
way to do this. None of the door switch lights are bad.
I have removed the whole radio, equalizer, lighter assembly.
So, I have easy access to the fuse/relay panel.

What a sweet car, I had it out today for a while. Runs fine.
Battery will last for a couple of days, then dead.
Had the battery tested today, it is fine and 6 months old.
Of course I had it on the charger for a few hours.

Thanks, Again.

AJ @ Home in Wisconsin
1989 - 765 w/134k Miles
1989 - 780T w/143k Miles
1987 - 245 w/225k Sold
And the Wife's FORD is still going.

Copied from the Brickboard FAQ:
http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-90...low%20Battery%
20Discharge

Slow Battery Discharge. [Query:] I am having an electrical problem with my
Volvo. About two months ago the battery went dead--slowly over time. It
was an old battery, so I though nothing of it and replaced it. All was good
for a month and a half, then it went dead again. With the car running I
measured 14volts across the terminals of the battery (12 when stopped) and
14v off the main positive lead of the alternator. What is the problem here?
[Battery Drain Diagnostics: Response: Ross Gunn] To check to see if there
is something draining the battery while the key is off, remove the pos
battery terminal, and with an ammeter, measure to see if there is any
current flowing from the battery to the cable. If there is anything more
than a couple of milliamps, try removing fuses one at a time to see if you
can identify the circuit that is causing the drain. If this pins down a
problem, a little more sleuthing through the offending circuit should tell
you what needs to be done.
If there is no drain showing with the above test, the charging system is
suspect. Try measuring the voltage at the alternator output terminal and
battery pos terminal with all utilities (headlights, rear window heater,
fan etc.) on high. Any difference in reading indicates a poor connection
somewhere in the red cable from the alternator. Don't assume that a crimp
connection of a terminal on the cable is good. Corrosion can introduce
enough resistance to prevent proper (any?) charging when there is a
significant load on the system (cold, dark, wet/snowy winter evenings). I
have experienced this on a 20 year old Brick.

[Battery Drain Diagnostics: Chris Bowne] I agree with Ross Gunn that the
best way to trouble shoot a discharging battery is to find the source with
the engine shut down and a multimeter (set to measure DC current) in series
with the positive battery terminal lead. Other places to check besides the
fuse block for drain paths are the alternator and voltage regulator (if not
internal to the alternator).
Disconnect/reconnect the connections on them, one at a time, and monitor for
drain. I had a problem on a Ford Taurus once where the voltage regulator had
shorted, and was the cause of the drain. You may or may not find a source of
a drain like this merely by pulling fuses. In fact, you could end up with
all the fuses pulled, and still have the drain, like I did!
Someone on an earlier posting of this thread mentioned checking to see if
his alternator was providing output by lifting the battery + terminal
connection WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING. DO NOT DO THIS! Many solid state
regulators will be damaged/destroyed by this condition. (And in turn may
compound the causes of the battery drain you are troubleshooting!)

Battery Drain Tips. [Tip from JohnB] Check the specific gravity of the
cells...if they're accessible.
With a fully charged battery, either from your battery charger or the
alternator, disconnect the battery and measure the voltage, measure it again
12 hours later and it should be virtually the same, maybe .1v less, no more.
Reconnect the battery to the car and turn on the headlights on full bright
for 10 minutes and every accessory in the car...if the battery dies in 10
minutes replace the battery. Otherwise, battery voltage should remain above
10.5 volts or so after this test. There are load testers available in auto
parts stores for about $30 or so that will do a higher load test (couple
hundred amps through a resistance load bank) in about 10-30 seconds against
a red/bad yellow/weak green/good voltage scale.
If these tests still have you with a good battery, then you just have to
trace down the current drain, circuit by circuit.

Good luck,

--
-don

'81 242t
'89 744ti



"AJ" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
news:(E-Mail Removed)...
> Still having the same problem. I do have the Green Book, for wiring.
> And some non-auto electrical knowledge.
> I guess I can start taking one of the wires off the possitive battery
> terminal. The 780 has 6 feeds off the terminal.
> What would one of you professionals do?
> I know that I have a short to ground, somewhere.
> I have plenty of time. Just wondering if there is a more systematic
> way to do this. None of the door switch lights are bad.
> I have removed the whole radio, equalizer, lighter assembly.
> So, I have easy access to the fuse/relay panel.
>
> What a sweet car, I had it out today for a while. Runs fine.
> Battery will last for a couple of days, then dead.
> Had the battery tested today, it is fine and 6 months old.
> Of course I had it on the charger for a few hours.
>
> Thanks, Again.
>
> AJ @ Home in Wisconsin
> 1989 - 765 w/134k Miles
> 1989 - 780T w/143k Miles
> 1987 - 245 w/225k Sold
> And the Wife's FORD is still going.

Hi,
Try your luck on the central locking system. I 've had this problem with
several Volvos in the past and every time it was in this system. Water in
the doors canb do the harm. Sometimes it will do when you drive about
40miles and make the car very hot inside. This will dry the doors.


"don hodgdon" <(E-Mail Removed)> schreef in bericht
news:qaHQb.49928$Xq2.38736@fed1read07...
> Copied from the Brickboard FAQ:
>
http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-90...low%20Battery%
> 20Discharge
>
> Slow Battery Discharge. [Query:] I am having an electrical problem with
my
> Volvo. About two months ago the battery went dead--slowly over time. It
> was an old battery, so I though nothing of it and replaced it. All was
good
> for a month and a half, then it went dead again. With the car running I
> measured 14volts across the terminals of the battery (12 when stopped) and
> 14v off the main positive lead of the alternator. What is the problem
here?
> [Battery Drain Diagnostics: Response: Ross Gunn] To check to see if
there
> is something draining the battery while the key is off, remove the pos
> battery terminal, and with an ammeter, measure to see if there is any
> current flowing from the battery to the cable. If there is anything more
> than a couple of milliamps, try removing fuses one at a time to see if you
> can identify the circuit that is causing the drain. If this pins down a
> problem, a little more sleuthing through the offending circuit should tell
> you what needs to be done.
> If there is no drain showing with the above test, the charging system is
> suspect. Try measuring the voltage at the alternator output terminal and
> battery pos terminal with all utilities (headlights, rear window heater,
> fan etc.) on high. Any difference in reading indicates a poor connection
> somewhere in the red cable from the alternator. Don't assume that a crimp
> connection of a terminal on the cable is good. Corrosion can introduce
> enough resistance to prevent proper (any?) charging when there is a
> significant load on the system (cold, dark, wet/snowy winter evenings). I
> have experienced this on a 20 year old Brick.
>
> [Battery Drain Diagnostics: Chris Bowne] I agree with Ross Gunn that the
> best way to trouble shoot a discharging battery is to find the source with
> the engine shut down and a multimeter (set to measure DC current) in
series
> with the positive battery terminal lead. Other places to check besides
the
> fuse block for drain paths are the alternator and voltage regulator (if
not
> internal to the alternator).
> Disconnect/reconnect the connections on them, one at a time, and monitor
for
> drain. I had a problem on a Ford Taurus once where the voltage regulator
had
> shorted, and was the cause of the drain. You may or may not find a source
of
> a drain like this merely by pulling fuses. In fact, you could end up with
> all the fuses pulled, and still have the drain, like I did!
> Someone on an earlier posting of this thread mentioned checking to see if
> his alternator was providing output by lifting the battery + terminal
> connection WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING. DO NOT DO THIS! Many solid state
> regulators will be damaged/destroyed by this condition. (And in turn may
> compound the causes of the battery drain you are troubleshooting!)
>
> Battery Drain Tips. [Tip from JohnB] Check the specific gravity of the
> cells...if they're accessible.
> With a fully charged battery, either from your battery charger or the
> alternator, disconnect the battery and measure the voltage, measure it
again
> 12 hours later and it should be virtually the same, maybe .1v less, no
more.
> Reconnect the battery to the car and turn on the headlights on full bright
> for 10 minutes and every accessory in the car...if the battery dies in 10
> minutes replace the battery. Otherwise, battery voltage should remain
above
> 10.5 volts or so after this test. There are load testers available in auto
> parts stores for about $30 or so that will do a higher load test (couple
> hundred amps through a resistance load bank) in about 10-30 seconds
against
> a red/bad yellow/weak green/good voltage scale.
> If these tests still have you with a good battery, then you just have to
> trace down the current drain, circuit by circuit.
>
> Good luck,
>
> --
> -don
>
> '81 242t
> '89 744ti
>
>
>
> "AJ" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
> news:(E-Mail Removed)...
> > Still having the same problem. I do have the Green Book, for wiring.
> > And some non-auto electrical knowledge.
> > I guess I can start taking one of the wires off the possitive battery
> > terminal. The 780 has 6 feeds off the terminal.
> > What would one of you professionals do?
> > I know that I have a short to ground, somewhere.
> > I have plenty of time. Just wondering if there is a more systematic
> > way to do this. None of the door switch lights are bad.
> > I have removed the whole radio, equalizer, lighter assembly.
> > So, I have easy access to the fuse/relay panel.
> >
> > What a sweet car, I had it out today for a while. Runs fine.
> > Battery will last for a couple of days, then dead.
> > Had the battery tested today, it is fine and 6 months old.
> > Of course I had it on the charger for a few hours.
> >
> > Thanks, Again.
> >
> > AJ @ Home in Wisconsin
> > 1989 - 765 w/134k Miles
> > 1989 - 780T w/143k Miles
> > 1987 - 245 w/225k Sold
> > And the Wife's FORD is still going.
>
>

This is most likely to be a loose connection from the +ve busbar inside the car
at top of bulkhead just under top of dashboard, or your +ve battery terminal is
loose. Check also for one of the feeds (you say there are six) from the battery
terminal with about one strand hanging on for dear life. If the battery goes
dead whilst car is in motion then you need a new battery as it may well have
enough sludge in the bottom to short out a cell or two, however it is very rare
for a battery to fail in this way, so best to check for loose connections as
mentioned above.

Of course, there will be those who say damned Italian electricians (780s were
assembled in Italy).

Cheers, Peter.

"A Franken" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
news:bv0h0p$h46$(E-Mail Removed)...
: Hi,
: Try your luck on the central locking system. I 've had this problem with
: several Volvos in the past and every time it was in this system. Water in
: the doors canb do the harm. Sometimes it will do when you drive about
: 40miles and make the car very hot inside. This will dry the doors.
:
:
: "don hodgdon" <(E-Mail Removed)> schreef in bericht
: news:qaHQb.49928$Xq2.38736@fed1read07...
: > Copied from the Brickboard FAQ:
: >
: http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-90...low%20Battery%
: > 20Discharge
: >
: > Slow Battery Discharge. [Query:] I am having an electrical problem with
: my
: > Volvo. About two months ago the battery went dead--slowly over time. It
: > was an old battery, so I though nothing of it and replaced it. All was
: good
: > for a month and a half, then it went dead again. With the car running I
: > measured 14volts across the terminals of the battery (12 when stopped) and
: > 14v off the main positive lead of the alternator. What is the problem
: here?
: > [Battery Drain Diagnostics: Response: Ross Gunn] To check to see if
: there
: > is something draining the battery while the key is off, remove the pos
: > battery terminal, and with an ammeter, measure to see if there is any
: > current flowing from the battery to the cable. If there is anything more
: > than a couple of milliamps, try removing fuses one at a time to see if you
: > can identify the circuit that is causing the drain. If this pins down a
: > problem, a little more sleuthing through the offending circuit should tell
: > you what needs to be done.
: > If there is no drain showing with the above test, the charging system is
: > suspect. Try measuring the voltage at the alternator output terminal and
: > battery pos terminal with all utilities (headlights, rear window heater,
: > fan etc.) on high. Any difference in reading indicates a poor connection
: > somewhere in the red cable from the alternator. Don't assume that a crimp
: > connection of a terminal on the cable is good. Corrosion can introduce
: > enough resistance to prevent proper (any?) charging when there is a
: > significant load on the system (cold, dark, wet/snowy winter evenings). I
: > have experienced this on a 20 year old Brick.
: >
: > [Battery Drain Diagnostics: Chris Bowne] I agree with Ross Gunn that the
: > best way to trouble shoot a discharging battery is to find the source with
: > the engine shut down and a multimeter (set to measure DC current) in
: series
: > with the positive battery terminal lead. Other places to check besides
: the
: > fuse block for drain paths are the alternator and voltage regulator (if
: not
: > internal to the alternator).
: > Disconnect/reconnect the connections on them, one at a time, and monitor
: for
: > drain. I had a problem on a Ford Taurus once where the voltage regulator
: had
: > shorted, and was the cause of the drain. You may or may not find a source
: of
: > a drain like this merely by pulling fuses. In fact, you could end up with
: > all the fuses pulled, and still have the drain, like I did!
: > Someone on an earlier posting of this thread mentioned checking to see if
: > his alternator was providing output by lifting the battery + terminal
: > connection WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING. DO NOT DO THIS! Many solid state
: > regulators will be damaged/destroyed by this condition. (And in turn may
: > compound the causes of the battery drain you are troubleshooting!)
: >
: > Battery Drain Tips. [Tip from JohnB] Check the specific gravity of the
: > cells...if they're accessible.
: > With a fully charged battery, either from your battery charger or the
: > alternator, disconnect the battery and measure the voltage, measure it
: again
: > 12 hours later and it should be virtually the same, maybe .1v less, no
: more.
: > Reconnect the battery to the car and turn on the headlights on full bright
: > for 10 minutes and every accessory in the car...if the battery dies in 10
: > minutes replace the battery. Otherwise, battery voltage should remain
: above
: > 10.5 volts or so after this test. There are load testers available in auto
: > parts stores for about $30 or so that will do a higher load test (couple
: > hundred amps through a resistance load bank) in about 10-30 seconds
: against
: > a red/bad yellow/weak green/good voltage scale.
: > If these tests still have you with a good battery, then you just have to
: > trace down the current drain, circuit by circuit.
: >
: > Good luck,
: >
: > --
: > -don
: >
: > '81 242t
: > '89 744ti
: >
: >
: >
: > "AJ" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
: > news:(E-Mail Removed)...
: > > Still having the same problem. I do have the Green Book, for wiring.
: > > And some non-auto electrical knowledge.
: > > I guess I can start taking one of the wires off the possitive battery
: > > terminal. The 780 has 6 feeds off the terminal.
: > > What would one of you professionals do?
: > > I know that I have a short to ground, somewhere.
: > > I have plenty of time. Just wondering if there is a more systematic
: > > way to do this. None of the door switch lights are bad.
: > > I have removed the whole radio, equalizer, lighter assembly.
: > > So, I have easy access to the fuse/relay panel.
: > >
: > > What a sweet car, I had it out today for a while. Runs fine.
: > > Battery will last for a couple of days, then dead.
: > > Had the battery tested today, it is fine and 6 months old.
: > > Of course I had it on the charger for a few hours.
: > >
: > > Thanks, Again.
: > >
: > > AJ @ Home in Wisconsin
: > > 1989 - 765 w/134k Miles
: > > 1989 - 780T w/143k Miles
: > > 1987 - 245 w/225k Sold
: > > And the Wife's FORD is still going.
: >
: >
:
:

Peter,

I'm trying to understand this . . . why does a loose connection
cause an additional drain on the battery?

Thanks,

Jim Kelly


"Peter Milnes" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
news:bv19t1$s57$(E-Mail Removed)...
| This is most likely to be a loose connection from the +ve busbar
inside the car
| at top of bulkhead just under top of dashboard, or your +ve
battery terminal is
| loose. Check also for one of the feeds (you say there are six)
from the battery
| terminal with about one strand hanging on for dear life. If the
battery goes
| dead whilst car is in motion then you need a new battery as it may
well have
| enough sludge in the bottom to short out a cell or two, however it
is very rare
| for a battery to fail in this way, so best to check for loose
connections as
| mentioned above.
|
| Of course, there will be those who say damned Italian electricians
(780s were
| assembled in Italy).
|
| Cheers, Peter.
|
| "A Franken" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
| news:bv0h0p$h46$(E-Mail Removed)...
| : Hi,
| : Try your luck on the central locking system. I 've had this
problem with
| : several Volvos in the past and every time it was in this system.
Water in
| : the doors canb do the harm. Sometimes it will do when you drive
about
| : 40miles and make the car very hot inside. This will dry the
doors.
| :
| :
| : "don hodgdon" <(E-Mail Removed)> schreef in bericht
| : news:qaHQb.49928$Xq2.38736@fed1read07...
| : > Copied from the Brickboard FAQ:
| : >
| :
http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-90...low%20Battery%
| : > 20Discharge
| : >
| : > Slow Battery Discharge. [Query:] I am having an electrical
problem with
| : my
| : > Volvo. About two months ago the battery went dead--slowly
over time. It
| : > was an old battery, so I though nothing of it and replaced it.
All was
| : good
| : > for a month and a half, then it went dead again. With the
car running I
| : > measured 14volts across the terminals of the battery (12 when
stopped) and
| : > 14v off the main positive lead of the alternator. What is the
problem
| : here?
| : > [Battery Drain Diagnostics: Response: Ross Gunn] To check to
see if
| : there
| : > is something draining the battery while the key is off, remove
the pos
| : > battery terminal, and with an ammeter, measure to see if there
is any
| : > current flowing from the battery to the cable. If there is
anything more
| : > than a couple of milliamps, try removing fuses one at a time
to see if you
| : > can identify the circuit that is causing the drain. If this
pins down a
| : > problem, a little more sleuthing through the offending circuit
should tell
| : > you what needs to be done.
| : > If there is no drain showing with the above test, the charging
system is
| : > suspect. Try measuring the voltage at the alternator output
terminal and
| : > battery pos terminal with all utilities (headlights, rear
window heater,
| : > fan etc.) on high. Any difference in reading indicates a poor
connection
| : > somewhere in the red cable from the alternator. Don't assume
that a crimp
| : > connection of a terminal on the cable is good. Corrosion can
introduce
| : > enough resistance to prevent proper (any?) charging when there
is a
| : > significant load on the system (cold, dark, wet/snowy winter
evenings). I
| : > have experienced this on a 20 year old Brick.
| : >
| : > [Battery Drain Diagnostics: Chris Bowne] I agree with Ross
Gunn that the
| : > best way to trouble shoot a discharging battery is to find the
source with
| : > the engine shut down and a multimeter (set to measure DC
current) in
| : series
| : > with the positive battery terminal lead. Other places to
check besides
| : the
| : > fuse block for drain paths are the alternator and voltage
regulator (if
| : not
| : > internal to the alternator).
| : > Disconnect/reconnect the connections on them, one at a time,
and monitor
| : for
| : > drain. I had a problem on a Ford Taurus once where the voltage
regulator
| : had
| : > shorted, and was the cause of the drain. You may or may not
find a source
| : of
| : > a drain like this merely by pulling fuses. In fact, you could
end up with
| : > all the fuses pulled, and still have the drain, like I did!
| : > Someone on an earlier posting of this thread mentioned
checking to see if
| : > his alternator was providing output by lifting the battery +
terminal
| : > connection WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING. DO NOT DO THIS! Many solid
state
| : > regulators will be damaged/destroyed by this condition. (And
in turn may
| : > compound the causes of the battery drain you are
troubleshooting!)
| : >
| : > Battery Drain Tips. [Tip from JohnB] Check the specific
gravity of the
| : > cells...if they're accessible.
| : > With a fully charged battery, either from your battery charger
or the
| : > alternator, disconnect the battery and measure the voltage,
measure it
| : again
| : > 12 hours later and it should be virtually the same, maybe .1v
less, no
| : more.
| : > Reconnect the battery to the car and turn on the headlights on
full bright
| : > for 10 minutes and every accessory in the car...if the battery
dies in 10
| : > minutes replace the battery. Otherwise, battery voltage should
remain
| : above
| : > 10.5 volts or so after this test. There are load testers
available in auto
| : > parts stores for about $30 or so that will do a higher load
test (couple
| : > hundred amps through a resistance load bank) in about 10-30
seconds
| : against
| : > a red/bad yellow/weak green/good voltage scale.
| : > If these tests still have you with a good battery, then you
just have to
| : > trace down the current drain, circuit by circuit.
| : >
| : > Good luck,
| : >
| : > --
| : > -don
| : >
| : > '81 242t
| : > '89 744ti
| : >
| : >
| : >
| : > "AJ" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
| : > news:(E-Mail Removed)...
| : > > Still having the same problem. I do have the Green Book, for
wiring.
| : > > And some non-auto electrical knowledge.
| : > > I guess I can start taking one of the wires off the
possitive battery
| : > > terminal. The 780 has 6 feeds off the terminal.
| : > > What would one of you professionals do?
| : > > I know that I have a short to ground, somewhere.
| : > > I have plenty of time. Just wondering if there is a more
systematic
| : > > way to do this. None of the door switch lights are bad.
| : > > I have removed the whole radio, equalizer, lighter assembly.
| : > > So, I have easy access to the fuse/relay panel.
| : > >
| : > > What a sweet car, I had it out today for a while. Runs fine.
| : > > Battery will last for a couple of days, then dead.
| : > > Had the battery tested today, it is fine and 6 months old.
| : > > Of course I had it on the charger for a few hours.
| : > >
| : > > Thanks, Again.
| : > >
| : > > AJ @ Home in Wisconsin
| : > > 1989 - 765 w/134k Miles
| : > > 1989 - 780T w/143k Miles
| : > > 1987 - 245 w/225k Sold
| : > > And the Wife's FORD is still going.
| : >
| : >
| :
| :
|

It doesn't cause additional drain, it prevents current flow so that everything
downstream of the Battery seems dead. I had a very similar thing with an
automatic MGF just before Christmas.

Cheers, Peter.

"Jim Kelly" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
news:4017a00f$0$28869$(E-Mail Removed) u...
: Peter,
:
: I'm trying to understand this . . . why does a loose connection
: cause an additional drain on the battery?
:
: Thanks,
:
: Jim Kelly
:
:
: "Peter Milnes" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
: news:bv19t1$s57$(E-Mail Removed)...
: | This is most likely to be a loose connection from the +ve busbar
: inside the car
: | at top of bulkhead just under top of dashboard, or your +ve
: battery terminal is
: | loose. Check also for one of the feeds (you say there are six)
: from the battery
: | terminal with about one strand hanging on for dear life. If the
: battery goes
: | dead whilst car is in motion then you need a new battery as it may
: well have
: | enough sludge in the bottom to short out a cell or two, however it
: is very rare
: | for a battery to fail in this way, so best to check for loose
: connections as
: | mentioned above.
: |
: | Of course, there will be those who say damned Italian electricians
: (780s were
: | assembled in Italy).
: |
: | Cheers, Peter.
: |
: | "A Franken" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
: | news:bv0h0p$h46$(E-Mail Removed)...
: | : Hi,
: | : Try your luck on the central locking system. I 've had this
: problem with
: | : several Volvos in the past and every time it was in this system.
: Water in
: | : the doors canb do the harm. Sometimes it will do when you drive
: about
: | : 40miles and make the car very hot inside. This will dry the
: doors.
: | :
: | :
: | : "don hodgdon" <(E-Mail Removed)> schreef in bericht
: | : news:qaHQb.49928$Xq2.38736@fed1read07...
: | : > Copied from the Brickboard FAQ:
: | : >
: | :
: http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-90...low%20Battery%
: | : > 20Discharge
: | : >
: | : > Slow Battery Discharge. [Query:] I am having an electrical
: problem with
: | : my
: | : > Volvo. About two months ago the battery went dead--slowly
: over time. It
: | : > was an old battery, so I though nothing of it and replaced it.
: All was
: | : good
: | : > for a month and a half, then it went dead again. With the
: car running I
: | : > measured 14volts across the terminals of the battery (12 when
: stopped) and
: | : > 14v off the main positive lead of the alternator. What is the
: problem
: | : here?
: | : > [Battery Drain Diagnostics: Response: Ross Gunn] To check to
: see if
: | : there
: | : > is something draining the battery while the key is off, remove
: the pos
: | : > battery terminal, and with an ammeter, measure to see if there
: is any
: | : > current flowing from the battery to the cable. If there is
: anything more
: | : > than a couple of milliamps, try removing fuses one at a time
: to see if you
: | : > can identify the circuit that is causing the drain. If this
: pins down a
: | : > problem, a little more sleuthing through the offending circuit
: should tell
: | : > you what needs to be done.
: | : > If there is no drain showing with the above test, the charging
: system is
: | : > suspect. Try measuring the voltage at the alternator output
: terminal and
: | : > battery pos terminal with all utilities (headlights, rear
: window heater,
: | : > fan etc.) on high. Any difference in reading indicates a poor
: connection
: | : > somewhere in the red cable from the alternator. Don't assume
: that a crimp
: | : > connection of a terminal on the cable is good. Corrosion can
: introduce
: | : > enough resistance to prevent proper (any?) charging when there
: is a
: | : > significant load on the system (cold, dark, wet/snowy winter
: evenings). I
: | : > have experienced this on a 20 year old Brick.
: | : >
: | : > [Battery Drain Diagnostics: Chris Bowne] I agree with Ross
: Gunn that the
: | : > best way to trouble shoot a discharging battery is to find the
: source with
: | : > the engine shut down and a multimeter (set to measure DC
: current) in
: | : series
: | : > with the positive battery terminal lead. Other places to
: check besides
: | : the
: | : > fuse block for drain paths are the alternator and voltage
: regulator (if
: | : not
: | : > internal to the alternator).
: | : > Disconnect/reconnect the connections on them, one at a time,
: and monitor
: | : for
: | : > drain. I had a problem on a Ford Taurus once where the voltage
: regulator
: | : had
: | : > shorted, and was the cause of the drain. You may or may not
: find a source
: | : of
: | : > a drain like this merely by pulling fuses. In fact, you could
: end up with
: | : > all the fuses pulled, and still have the drain, like I did!
: | : > Someone on an earlier posting of this thread mentioned
: checking to see if
: | : > his alternator was providing output by lifting the battery +
: terminal
: | : > connection WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING. DO NOT DO THIS! Many solid
: state
: | : > regulators will be damaged/destroyed by this condition. (And
: in turn may
: | : > compound the causes of the battery drain you are
: troubleshooting!)
: | : >
: | : > Battery Drain Tips. [Tip from JohnB] Check the specific
: gravity of the
: | : > cells...if they're accessible.
: | : > With a fully charged battery, either from your battery charger
: or the
: | : > alternator, disconnect the battery and measure the voltage,
: measure it
: | : again
: | : > 12 hours later and it should be virtually the same, maybe .1v
: less, no
: | : more.
: | : > Reconnect the battery to the car and turn on the headlights on
: full bright
: | : > for 10 minutes and every accessory in the car...if the battery
: dies in 10
: | : > minutes replace the battery. Otherwise, battery voltage should
: remain
: | : above
: | : > 10.5 volts or so after this test. There are load testers
: available in auto
: | : > parts stores for about $30 or so that will do a higher load
: test (couple
: | : > hundred amps through a resistance load bank) in about 10-30
: seconds
: | : against
: | : > a red/bad yellow/weak green/good voltage scale.
: | : > If these tests still have you with a good battery, then you
: just have to
: | : > trace down the current drain, circuit by circuit.
: | : >
: | : > Good luck,
: | : >
: | : > --
: | : > -don
: | : >
: | : > '81 242t
: | : > '89 744ti
: | : >
: | : >
: | : >
: | : > "AJ" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
: | : > news:(E-Mail Removed)...
: | : > > Still having the same problem. I do have the Green Book, for
: wiring.
: | : > > And some non-auto electrical knowledge.
: | : > > I guess I can start taking one of the wires off the
: possitive battery
: | : > > terminal. The 780 has 6 feeds off the terminal.
: | : > > What would one of you professionals do?
: | : > > I know that I have a short to ground, somewhere.
: | : > > I have plenty of time. Just wondering if there is a more
: systematic
: | : > > way to do this. None of the door switch lights are bad.
: | : > > I have removed the whole radio, equalizer, lighter assembly.
: | : > > So, I have easy access to the fuse/relay panel.
: | : > >
: | : > > What a sweet car, I had it out today for a while. Runs fine.
: | : > > Battery will last for a couple of days, then dead.
: | : > > Had the battery tested today, it is fine and 6 months old.
: | : > > Of course I had it on the charger for a few hours.
: | : > >
: | : > > Thanks, Again.
: | : > >
: | : > > AJ @ Home in Wisconsin
: | : > > 1989 - 765 w/134k Miles
: | : > > 1989 - 780T w/143k Miles
: | : > > 1987 - 245 w/225k Sold
: | : > > And the Wife's FORD is still going.
: | : >
: | : >
: | :
: | :
: |
: