S40 hard starting, uneven running

Hi all,

I'm hoping to get some direction as to what and where to test with the
purpose of getting to a diagnosis on a problem with my 2001 S40 1.9T
(auto with about 240K).

Since I've had this car it's been quite reliable and has had few
problems (except the recently fixed turn-signal issue). About a month
ago it began getting a little harder to start. The starter motor would
turn but the engine wouldn't catch for a few seconds. Over the past
several weeks this time before starting has been getting longer.

A few observations:

1. The hard starting happens always when the engine is cold and about
50% of the time when it's hot.
2. When it cranks for a long time (5 seconds) before catching there's
a strong smell of gasoline
3. The starter motor cranks hard and steady, there's no sign of weak
battery.
4. It has not yet failed to start or stalled out while running.
5. Once it starts it doesn't idle smoothly insofar as it seems to
'miss' every now and again and give a little shudder. No noise, just a
very short gap in the otherwise even idle.

What I've done to make it worse
A couple of weeks ago I had a driveway to work in so I picked up some
spark plugs thinking they might be the problem. Unfortunately I
couldn't find a gapping tool OR the appropriate gap specifications for
this car so I just swapped them anyway because the old plugs were in
pretty bad shape (the plastic around the annode was almost entirely
worn away and blackened). Since that time the idle has worsened and
there have been more misses at highway speed. I suppose that when I
address this (does anyone have the right spark gap measurement for
this car? I can't find it in VADIS) I'll need to use new plugs again.

A few more observations:
6. The tach shows idling RPMs a bit low, looks like approx. 600rpm.
7. The 4 spark plugs are fed by two ordinary wires and two that have a
sealed box just above the plug socket. In researching them on VADIS I
found that the springs inside the sockets were supposed to protrude
5mm when disconnected from the spark plug but these did not:they were
compressed to even with or lower than the socket edge.

So if that information makes the problem obvious to anyone then that's
great but more likely you might have suggestions on what to test or
inspect to work towards a conclusion.

Whatever you've got I'll take with thanks!

Cheers,
blurp

"blurp" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
news:(E-Mail Removed)...
> Hi all,
>
> I'm hoping to get some direction as to what and where to test with the
> purpose of getting to a diagnosis on a problem with my 2001 S40 1.9T
> (auto with about 240K).
>
> Since I've had this car it's been quite reliable and has had few
> problems (except the recently fixed turn-signal issue). About a month
> ago it began getting a little harder to start. The starter motor would
> turn but the engine wouldn't catch for a few seconds. Over the past
> several weeks this time before starting has been getting longer.
>
> A few observations:
>
> 1. The hard starting happens always when the engine is cold and about
> 50% of the time when it's hot.
> 2. When it cranks for a long time (5 seconds) before catching there's
> a strong smell of gasoline
> 3. The starter motor cranks hard and steady, there's no sign of weak
> battery.
> 4. It has not yet failed to start or stalled out while running.
> 5. Once it starts it doesn't idle smoothly insofar as it seems to
> 'miss' every now and again and give a little shudder. No noise, just a
> very short gap in the otherwise even idle.
>
> What I've done to make it worse
> A couple of weeks ago I had a driveway to work in so I picked up some
> spark plugs thinking they might be the problem. Unfortunately I
> couldn't find a gapping tool OR the appropriate gap specifications for
> this car so I just swapped them anyway because the old plugs were in
> pretty bad shape (the plastic around the annode was almost entirely
> worn away and blackened). Since that time the idle has worsened and
> there have been more misses at highway speed. I suppose that when I
> address this (does anyone have the right spark gap measurement for
> this car? I can't find it in VADIS) I'll need to use new plugs again.
>
> A few more observations:
> 6. The tach shows idling RPMs a bit low, looks like approx. 600rpm.
> 7. The 4 spark plugs are fed by two ordinary wires and two that have a
> sealed box just above the plug socket. In researching them on VADIS I
> found that the springs inside the sockets were supposed to protrude
> 5mm when disconnected from the spark plug but these did not:they were
> compressed to even with or lower than the socket edge.
>
> So if that information makes the problem obvious to anyone then that's
> great but more likely you might have suggestions on what to test or
> inspect to work towards a conclusion.
>
> Whatever you've got I'll take with thanks!
>
> Cheers,
> blurp


My '01 S40 (150K miles) had a similar problem - turns out it was the fuel
regulator.

On 9/18/2009 12:02 PM, blurp wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I'm hoping to get some direction as to what and where to test with the
> purpose of getting to a diagnosis on a problem with my 2001 S40 1.9T
> (auto with about 240K).
>
> Since I've had this car it's been quite reliable and has had few
> problems (except the recently fixed turn-signal issue). About a month
> ago it began getting a little harder to start. The starter motor would
> turn but the engine wouldn't catch for a few seconds. Over the past
> several weeks this time before starting has been getting longer.
>
> A few observations:
>
> 1. The hard starting happens always when the engine is cold and about
> 50% of the time when it's hot.
> 2. When it cranks for a long time (5 seconds) before catching there's
> a strong smell of gasoline
> 3. The starter motor cranks hard and steady, there's no sign of weak
> battery.
> 4. It has not yet failed to start or stalled out while running.
> 5. Once it starts it doesn't idle smoothly insofar as it seems to
> 'miss' every now and again and give a little shudder. No noise, just a
> very short gap in the otherwise even idle.
>
> What I've done to make it worse
> A couple of weeks ago I had a driveway to work in so I picked up some
> spark plugs thinking they might be the problem. Unfortunately I
> couldn't find a gapping tool OR the appropriate gap specifications for
> this car so I just swapped them anyway because the old plugs were in
> pretty bad shape (the plastic around the annode was almost entirely
> worn away and blackened). Since that time the idle has worsened and
> there have been more misses at highway speed. I suppose that when I
> address this (does anyone have the right spark gap measurement for
> this car? I can't find it in VADIS) I'll need to use new plugs again.
>
> A few more observations:
> 6. The tach shows idling RPMs a bit low, looks like approx. 600rpm.
> 7. The 4 spark plugs are fed by two ordinary wires and two that have a
> sealed box just above the plug socket. In researching them on VADIS I
> found that the springs inside the sockets were supposed to protrude
> 5mm when disconnected from the spark plug but these did not:they were
> compressed to even with or lower than the socket edge.
>
> So if that information makes the problem obvious to anyone then that's
> great but more likely you might have suggestions on what to test or
> inspect to work towards a conclusion.
>
> Whatever you've got I'll take with thanks!
>
> Cheers,
> blurp
From what you are describing it sounds like the fuel pressure regulator
is on it's way out not very hard to change remove the fuel line going in
to the regulator remove the torx screw from the side of the fuel rail
very slowly work out the regulator install is opposite of removal
Glenn K
Volvo Certified Technician 2008
ASE Certified Technician 2008

"blurp" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
news:(E-Mail Removed)...
> Hi all,
>
> I'm hoping to get some direction as to what and where to test with the
> purpose of getting to a diagnosis on a problem with my 2001 S40 1.9T
> (auto with about 240K).
>
> Since I've had this car it's been quite reliable and has had few
> problems (except the recently fixed turn-signal issue). About a month
> ago it began getting a little harder to start. The starter motor would
> turn but the engine wouldn't catch for a few seconds. Over the past
> several weeks this time before starting has been getting longer.
>
> A few observations:
>
> 1. The hard starting happens always when the engine is cold and about
> 50% of the time when it's hot.
> 2. When it cranks for a long time (5 seconds) before catching there's
> a strong smell of gasoline
> 3. The starter motor cranks hard and steady, there's no sign of weak
> battery.
> 4. It has not yet failed to start or stalled out while running.
> 5. Once it starts it doesn't idle smoothly insofar as it seems to
> 'miss' every now and again and give a little shudder. No noise, just a
> very short gap in the otherwise even idle.
>
> What I've done to make it worse
> A couple of weeks ago I had a driveway to work in so I picked up some
> spark plugs thinking they might be the problem. Unfortunately I
> couldn't find a gapping tool OR the appropriate gap specifications for
> this car so I just swapped them anyway because the old plugs were in
> pretty bad shape (the plastic around the annode was almost entirely
> worn away and blackened). Since that time the idle has worsened and
> there have been more misses at highway speed. I suppose that when I
> address this (does anyone have the right spark gap measurement for
> this car? I can't find it in VADIS) I'll need to use new plugs again.
>
> A few more observations:
> 6. The tach shows idling RPMs a bit low, looks like approx. 600rpm.
> 7. The 4 spark plugs are fed by two ordinary wires and two that have a
> sealed box just above the plug socket. In researching them on VADIS I
> found that the springs inside the sockets were supposed to protrude
> 5mm when disconnected from the spark plug but these did not:they were
> compressed to even with or lower than the socket edge.
>
> So if that information makes the problem obvious to anyone then that's
> great but more likely you might have suggestions on what to test or
> inspect to work towards a conclusion.
>
> Whatever you've got I'll take with thanks!
>
> Cheers,
> blurp

My 2000 S40, which now has just over 200,000 miles on it, has similar
problems. I have pretty much ignored the hard starting and it has not
gotten any more serious in the two plus years that has been an issue. As
far as the rough idle/missing, I've used a can of Seafoam about once a month
and that seems to clear things up pretty well. Despite the troubles
described, this car has been a trooper for me since I got it new in Nov. of
1999. Maybe I'll give the fuel pressure regulator a shot and see if I can
get a few more years out of her. The suspension and body are starting to
show their age though.

On Fri, 18 Sep 2009 18:09:48 -0400, GlennK <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:

>On 9/18/2009 12:02 PM, blurp wrote:
>> Hi all,
>>
>> I'm hoping to get some direction as to what and where to test with the
>> purpose of getting to a diagnosis on a problem with my 2001 S40 1.9T
>> (auto with about 240K).
>>
>> Since I've had this car it's been quite reliable and has had few
>> problems (except the recently fixed turn-signal issue). About a month
>> ago it began getting a little harder to start. The starter motor would
>> turn but the engine wouldn't catch for a few seconds. Over the past
>> several weeks this time before starting has been getting longer.
>>
>> A few observations:
>>
>> 1. The hard starting happens always when the engine is cold and about
>> 50% of the time when it's hot.
>> 2. When it cranks for a long time (5 seconds) before catching there's
>> a strong smell of gasoline
>> 3. The starter motor cranks hard and steady, there's no sign of weak
>> battery.
>> 4. It has not yet failed to start or stalled out while running.
>> 5. Once it starts it doesn't idle smoothly insofar as it seems to
>> 'miss' every now and again and give a little shudder. No noise, just a
>> very short gap in the otherwise even idle.
>>
>> What I've done to make it worse
>> A couple of weeks ago I had a driveway to work in so I picked up some
>> spark plugs thinking they might be the problem. Unfortunately I
>> couldn't find a gapping tool OR the appropriate gap specifications for
>> this car so I just swapped them anyway because the old plugs were in
>> pretty bad shape (the plastic around the annode was almost entirely
>> worn away and blackened). Since that time the idle has worsened and
>> there have been more misses at highway speed. I suppose that when I
>> address this (does anyone have the right spark gap measurement for
>> this car? I can't find it in VADIS) I'll need to use new plugs again.
>>
>> A few more observations:
>> 6. The tach shows idling RPMs a bit low, looks like approx. 600rpm.
>> 7. The 4 spark plugs are fed by two ordinary wires and two that have a
>> sealed box just above the plug socket. In researching them on VADIS I
>> found that the springs inside the sockets were supposed to protrude
>> 5mm when disconnected from the spark plug but these did not:they were
>> compressed to even with or lower than the socket edge.
>>
>> So if that information makes the problem obvious to anyone then that's
>> great but more likely you might have suggestions on what to test or
>> inspect to work towards a conclusion.
>>
>> Whatever you've got I'll take with thanks!
>>
>> Cheers,
>> blurp
> From what you are describing it sounds like the fuel pressure regulator
>is on it's way out not very hard to change remove the fuel line going in
>to the regulator remove the torx screw from the side of the fuel rail
>very slowly work out the regulator install is opposite of removal
>Glenn K
>Volvo Certified Technician 2008
>ASE Certified Technician 2008

Thanks for the responses I've received, it's good to have something
specific to start chasing down.

So is there any way I could test the Fuel Pressure Regulator without
removing it or am I just replacing it?

UPDATE


> On Fri, 18 Sep 2009 23:30:40 -0500, "Steve and Amy Bernth" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:

>
>"blurp" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
>news:(E-Mail Removed).. .
>> Hi all,
>>
>> I'm hoping to get some direction as to what and where to test with the
>> purpose of getting to a diagnosis on a problem with my 2001 S40 1.9T
>> (auto with about 240K).
>>
>> Since I've had this car it's been quite reliable and has had few
>> problems (except the recently fixed turn-signal issue). About a month
>> ago it began getting a little harder to start. The starter motor would
>> turn but the engine wouldn't catch for a few seconds. Over the past
>> several weeks this time before starting has been getting longer.
>>
>> A few observations:
>>
>> 1. The hard starting happens always when the engine is cold and about
>> 50% of the time when it's hot.
>> 2. When it cranks for a long time (5 seconds) before catching there's
>> a strong smell of gasoline
>> 3. The starter motor cranks hard and steady, there's no sign of weak
>> battery.
>> 4. It has not yet failed to start or stalled out while running.
>> 5. Once it starts it doesn't idle smoothly insofar as it seems to
>> 'miss' every now and again and give a little shudder. No noise, just a
>> very short gap in the otherwise even idle.
>>
>> What I've done to make it worse
>> A couple of weeks ago I had a driveway to work in so I picked up some
>> spark plugs thinking they might be the problem. Unfortunately I
>> couldn't find a gapping tool OR the appropriate gap specifications for
>> this car so I just swapped them anyway because the old plugs were in
>> pretty bad shape (the plastic around the annode was almost entirely
>> worn away and blackened). Since that time the idle has worsened and
>> there have been more misses at highway speed. I suppose that when I
>> address this (does anyone have the right spark gap measurement for
>> this car? I can't find it in VADIS) I'll need to use new plugs again.
>>
>> A few more observations:
>> 6. The tach shows idling RPMs a bit low, looks like approx. 600rpm.
>> 7. The 4 spark plugs are fed by two ordinary wires and two that have a
>> sealed box just above the plug socket. In researching them on VADIS I
>> found that the springs inside the sockets were supposed to protrude
>> 5mm when disconnected from the spark plug but these did not:they were
>> compressed to even with or lower than the socket edge.
>>
>> So if that information makes the problem obvious to anyone then that's
>> great but more likely you might have suggestions on what to test or
>> inspect to work towards a conclusion.
>>
>> Whatever you've got I'll take with thanks!
>>
>> Cheers,
>> blurp
>
>My 2000 S40, which now has just over 200,000 miles on it, has similar
>problems. I have pretty much ignored the hard starting and it has not
>gotten any more serious in the two plus years that has been an issue. As
>far as the rough idle/missing, I've used a can of Seafoam about once a month
>and that seems to clear things up pretty well. Despite the troubles
>described, this car has been a trooper for me since I got it new in Nov. of
>1999. Maybe I'll give the fuel pressure regulator a shot and see if I can
>get a few more years out of her. The suspension and body are starting to
>show their age though.
>

I went to inspect the fuel pressure regulator and found that the short
length of U-shaped hose that connected the regulator to the engine
(the black part AFTER the short length of cream-coloured hose) had
cracks in it. So if it's leaking at those cracks is it leaking fuel
out or leaking air in? The hose seemed dry and dusty so I don't think
anything has come out of those cracks.

The dealer says they sell the double-ended S-shaped hose assembly for
$14 so I think that's what I'll go pick up today after work. Any
procedural suggestions re: swapping that out? Is there going to be
residual pressure in the fuel system when I take the thing off? Can I
alleviate that by opening the fuel tank? Will I need to bleed the fuel
system afterwards for fear of air bubbles or will it correct itself?

I don't have any experience working with the fuel system and want to
be as safe as possible.

Thanks,
blurp

ANOTHER UPDATE (bottom):


> On Mon, 21 Sep 2009 14:39:17 -0400, blurp <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:

>UPDATE
>
>
>> On Fri, 18 Sep 2009 23:30:40 -0500, "Steve and Amy Bernth" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:
>
>>
>>"blurp" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
>>news:(E-Mail Removed). ..
>>> Hi all,
>>>
>>> I'm hoping to get some direction as to what and where to test with the
>>> purpose of getting to a diagnosis on a problem with my 2001 S40 1.9T
>>> (auto with about 240K).
>>>
>>> Since I've had this car it's been quite reliable and has had few
>>> problems (except the recently fixed turn-signal issue). About a month
>>> ago it began getting a little harder to start. The starter motor would
>>> turn but the engine wouldn't catch for a few seconds. Over the past
>>> several weeks this time before starting has been getting longer.
>>>
>>> A few observations:
>>>
>>> 1. The hard starting happens always when the engine is cold and about
>>> 50% of the time when it's hot.
>>> 2. When it cranks for a long time (5 seconds) before catching there's
>>> a strong smell of gasoline
>>> 3. The starter motor cranks hard and steady, there's no sign of weak
>>> battery.
>>> 4. It has not yet failed to start or stalled out while running.
>>> 5. Once it starts it doesn't idle smoothly insofar as it seems to
>>> 'miss' every now and again and give a little shudder. No noise, just a
>>> very short gap in the otherwise even idle.
>>>
>>> What I've done to make it worse
>>> A couple of weeks ago I had a driveway to work in so I picked up some
>>> spark plugs thinking they might be the problem. Unfortunately I
>>> couldn't find a gapping tool OR the appropriate gap specifications for
>>> this car so I just swapped them anyway because the old plugs were in
>>> pretty bad shape (the plastic around the annode was almost entirely
>>> worn away and blackened). Since that time the idle has worsened and
>>> there have been more misses at highway speed. I suppose that when I
>>> address this (does anyone have the right spark gap measurement for
>>> this car? I can't find it in VADIS) I'll need to use new plugs again.
>>>
>>> A few more observations:
>>> 6. The tach shows idling RPMs a bit low, looks like approx. 600rpm.
>>> 7. The 4 spark plugs are fed by two ordinary wires and two that have a
>>> sealed box just above the plug socket. In researching them on VADIS I
>>> found that the springs inside the sockets were supposed to protrude
>>> 5mm when disconnected from the spark plug but these did not:they were
>>> compressed to even with or lower than the socket edge.
>>>
>>> So if that information makes the problem obvious to anyone then that's
>>> great but more likely you might have suggestions on what to test or
>>> inspect to work towards a conclusion.
>>>
>>> Whatever you've got I'll take with thanks!
>>>
>>> Cheers,
>>> blurp
>>
>>My 2000 S40, which now has just over 200,000 miles on it, has similar
>>problems. I have pretty much ignored the hard starting and it has not
>>gotten any more serious in the two plus years that has been an issue. As
>>far as the rough idle/missing, I've used a can of Seafoam about once a month
>>and that seems to clear things up pretty well. Despite the troubles
>>described, this car has been a trooper for me since I got it new in Nov. of
>>1999. Maybe I'll give the fuel pressure regulator a shot and see if I can
>>get a few more years out of her. The suspension and body are starting to
>>show their age though.
>>
>
>I went to inspect the fuel pressure regulator and found that the short
>length of U-shaped hose that connected the regulator to the engine
>(the black part AFTER the short length of cream-coloured hose) had
>cracks in it. So if it's leaking at those cracks is it leaking fuel
>out or leaking air in? The hose seemed dry and dusty so I don't think
>anything has come out of those cracks.
>
>The dealer says they sell the double-ended S-shaped hose assembly for
>$14 so I think that's what I'll go pick up today after work. Any
>procedural suggestions re: swapping that out? Is there going to be
>residual pressure in the fuel system when I take the thing off? Can I
>alleviate that by opening the fuel tank? Will I need to bleed the fuel
>system afterwards for fear of air bubbles or will it correct itself?
>
>I don't have any experience working with the fuel system and want to
>be as safe as possible.
>
>Thanks,
>blurp

I found this beautiful step-by-step for other users:

http://s40concepts.net/forum/index.p...e3d8b35c4d02d3

and I believe the part I'm seeing the cracks in is a vacuum hose so
I'm increasingly thinking no fuel is likely to come out as a result of
this repair.

Hopefully I can change this hose without having to completely remove
the FPR.

Any advice/suggestions still welcome!

Thanks,
blurp

>
> I found this beautiful step-by-step for other users:
>
> http://s40concepts.net/forum/index.p...e3d8b35c4d02d3
>
> and I believe the part I'm seeing the cracks in is a vacuum hose so
> I'm increasingly thinking no fuel is likely to come out as a result of
> this repair.
>
> Hopefully I can change this hose without having to completely remove
> the FPR.
>
> Any advice/suggestions still welcome!
>
> Thanks,
> blurp



The hose is a vacuum line that allows the regulator to maintain a
constant pressure across the injectors as the pressure in the manifold
changes. No fuel will come out if it leaks, but the fuel pressure will
not be correct under many circumstances, as well as it creates a vacuum
leak into the intake manifold which will cause the engine to run poorly.

On Mon, 21 Sep 2009 18:57:23 -0700, James Sweet
<(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:

>
>>
>> I found this beautiful step-by-step for other users:
>>
>> http://s40concepts.net/forum/index.p...e3d8b35c4d02d3
>>
>> and I believe the part I'm seeing the cracks in is a vacuum hose so
>> I'm increasingly thinking no fuel is likely to come out as a result of
>> this repair.
>>
>> Hopefully I can change this hose without having to completely remove
>> the FPR.
>>
>> Any advice/suggestions still welcome!
>>
>> Thanks,
>> blurp
>
>
>
>The hose is a vacuum line that allows the regulator to maintain a
>constant pressure across the injectors as the pressure in the manifold
>changes. No fuel will come out if it leaks, but the fuel pressure will
>not be correct under many circumstances, as well as it creates a vacuum
>leak into the intake manifold which will cause the engine to run poorly.


That sounds promising, I picked up the replacement hose
this evening and hope to swap it tomorrow. It'd be nice to solve this
with a $14 part. So the stuff in my previous post about gapping the
plugs... can I rely on them being correct right out of the box? What
if i had got the plug with 4 grounds?

b

>
> That sounds promising, I picked up the replacement hose
> this evening and hope to swap it tomorrow. It'd be nice to solve this
> with a $14 part. So the stuff in my previous post about gapping the
> plugs... can I rely on them being correct right out of the box? What
> if i had got the plug with 4 grounds?
>
> b


Generally no, you can get pregapped plugs, but it's always a good idea
to check them, a gapping tool is usually under a dollar.

Those multi-electrode plugs are a gimmick, just get plain plugs of the
correct heat range, I've had good luck with NGK. If you pay more than $3
each, you got ripped off.