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S40 hard starting/long crank time (still!)

 
ransley
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Posts: n/a
 
      25-02-2010
On Feb 24, 10:58*am, blurp <clubs...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> On Tue, 23 Feb 2010 13:12:42 -0800 (PST), ransley
>
>
>
>
>
> <Mark_Rans...@Yahoo.com> wrote:
> >On Feb 23, 9:25*am, blurp <clubs...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> >> Hi all,

>
> >> I've posted this before and am still battling the same problem. In
> >> brief:

>
> >> THE CAR: 2001 S40 1.9T (auto with about 250K).

>
> >> THE PROBLEM: Hard starting, long cranking time.

>
> >> OBSERVATIONS:
> >> 1. The hard starting happens always when the engine is cold (sitting
> >> for more than one hour). Car starts best in extreme sub-zero
> >> temperatures
> >> 2. When it cranks for a long time (5 seconds) before catching there's
> >> a strong smell of gasoline
> >> 3. The starter motor cranks hard and steady, there's no sign of weak
> >> battery.
> >> 4. It has not yet failed to start or stalled out while running.
> >> 5. Once it stumbles up to normal idle and then it idles smoothly. This
> >> stumbling lead-up to normal idle has lit the CHECK ENGINE light.

>
> >> STEPS TAKEN:
> >> 1. New spark plugs installed (and properly gapped)
> >> 2. New wireset to plugs installed
> >> 3. New ingition coil packs installed
> >> 4. Installation of exhaust gas venting valve as per Technical Service
> >> Bulletin (specifically meant to address long cranking time)

>
> >> I took the car to a small shop here in Toronto originally suggesting
> >> the fuel pressure regulator be examined but they dismissed this,
> >> citing that the smell of unburned fuel indicates that the regulator
> >> was delivering fuel as it should. I later asked if he used an external
> >> fuel pressure guage to test it and he said he had but I'm not entirely
> >> sure he did. In my mind too much fuel would be just as detrimental as
> >> not enough.

>
> >> Any further ideas? Does all of this point even more strongly toward
> >> the regulator? Is there any way I can test it before dropping another
> >> $300?

>
> >> Your suggestions, comments, and questions are welcomed.

>
> >> Thanks in advance,
> >> blurp

>
> >Do you smell unburnt fuel, then maybe its flooding and fuel related.
> >New coils, wires plugs so spark should be hot if battery is good, but
> >it may not be. Did someone put it on a scope to see if it fires well
> >on starting, or do a test pull a plug or use an extra plug and ground
> >it to see if you have a blue color. What is battery voltage, *12.8v is
> >full charge 13.3 just after its shut off. *Low compression makes
> >starting harder and your motor has the miles, is that 250000 miles, if
> >so its worn. Smelling gas to me means its getting to much fuel to
> >ignite, or not enough spark to ignite it and low compression could
> >agravate the main issue of weak spark or to much fuel.

>
> Thanks all for the terrific insight, I have a few leads to follow up
> on. The garage has offered to help track this oddity down with no
> labor charge.
>
> The battery, I am told, was tested but a start test was not performed.
> I have a voltmeter so I can check some of that myself.
>
> I recall the 240 having a common fuel pressure-related starting
> problem when the car was hot because the elastic membrane that was
> meant to keep pressure once the fuel pump stopped would deteriorate
> and fail. It seems the FPR on this car has the same problem and may be
> prone to a similar failure.
>
> Can the easy starting in extreme cold temperatures be a clue to
> anything?
>
> Thanks for all the input, I'll start checking these things out and
> report back.
>
> Cheers,
> blurp
> ps. The car has almost 250K km (not miles) on it.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -


If the membrane is leaking some gas then sure at warmer temps the
mixture is to rich, it floods, thats why you smell gas. Whatever the
cause you smell gas because its not burning, its also ruined your
motor oil
 
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blurp
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Posts: n/a
 
      19-03-2010
On Tue, 23 Feb 2010 18:58:51 -0500, GlennK <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:

>On 2/23/2010 10:25, blurp wrote:
>> Hi all,
>>
>> I've posted this before and am still battling the same problem. In
>> brief:
>>
>> THE CAR: 2001 S40 1.9T (auto with about 250K).
>>
>> THE PROBLEM: Hard starting, long cranking time.
>>
>> OBSERVATIONS:
>> 1. The hard starting happens always when the engine is cold (sitting
>> for more than one hour). Car starts best in extreme sub-zero
>> temperatures
>> 2. When it cranks for a long time (5 seconds) before catching there's
>> a strong smell of gasoline
>> 3. The starter motor cranks hard and steady, there's no sign of weak
>> battery.
>> 4. It has not yet failed to start or stalled out while running.
>> 5. Once it stumbles up to normal idle and then it idles smoothly. This
>> stumbling lead-up to normal idle has lit the CHECK ENGINE light.
>>
>> STEPS TAKEN:
>> 1. New spark plugs installed (and properly gapped)
>> 2. New wireset to plugs installed
>> 3. New ingition coil packs installed
>> 4. Installation of exhaust gas venting valve as per Technical Service
>> Bulletin (specifically meant to address long cranking time)
>>
>> I took the car to a small shop here in Toronto originally suggesting
>> the fuel pressure regulator be examined but they dismissed this,
>> citing that the smell of unburned fuel indicates that the regulator
>> was delivering fuel as it should. I later asked if he used an external
>> fuel pressure guage to test it and he said he had but I'm not entirely
>> sure he did. In my mind too much fuel would be just as detrimental as
>> not enough.
>>
>> Any further ideas? Does all of this point even more strongly toward
>> the regulator? Is there any way I can test it before dropping another
>> $300?
>>
>> Your suggestions, comments, and questions are welcomed.
>>
>> Thanks in advance,
>> blurp

>Check Engine Light On or Off @ this point I would take a trip to your
>local Volvo Dealer & Have them Diagnose your problem most likely it will
>cost you 1 Hour @ whatever there labor rate is before dropping $300.00
>for a part that you are not sure if it is needed or not if the dealer
>comes back & tells you that you need the fuel pressure regulator then
>purchase & do it yourself
>G Klein
>Volvo Certified Technician 2009
>ASE Certified Technician 2009


It was the fuel pressure regulator! A test for this part is simple:

With the car switched off and cold gently pull off the S-shaped vaccum
line where it connects to the underside of the regulator. If a drop of
gas drips out of the regulator from the connection point then the part
needs replacing.

Thanks all for your help and input.

Cheers,
blurp
 
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