1988 volvo 5 speed clutch disengagement

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by ignatz, Nov 3, 2004.

  1. ignatz

    ignatz Guest

    Hi! Just got a nice 240 4-door which supposedly had a broken clutch return
    spring - ended up needing much more! When depressing the clutch pedal the
    arm at the clutch housing moves but the clutch definitely does not
    disengage. I wondered what this might be as I am very familiar with this
    car but have not dissected a 5 speed clutch assy. I would like to get the
    parts before I take it apart because the car is located about 300 miles
    from my home. Any help on what might cause lack of clutch disengagement
    would be greatly appreciated!~ bob
     
    ignatz, Nov 3, 2004
    #1
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  2. Although you see the arm moving, consider that it may not be moving
    enough. If it is a hydraulic clutch, this could be because the system
    needs bleeding, or a seal has failed (look for fluid leaking around
    the slave cylinder under the car, or inside the car behind the pedal,
    from the master cylinder). If it is cable operated, it could be a
    damaged or maladjusted cable.

    If all this checks out OK, then it could be any of the three main
    parts that make up a clutch kit - friction plate, pressure plate or
    thrust bearing. All three of these should be replaced during a clutch
    change. There is also a chance that the actuating arm could be
    damaged, although this is quite rare.
    --

    Stewart Hargrave


    For email, replace 'SpamOnlyToHere' with my name
     
    Stewart Hargrave, Nov 3, 2004
    #2
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  3. ignatz

    Mike F Guest

    I've seen both a failed (broken) arm and the pivot point worn out. Oil
    leaking on the clutch can cause an otherwise functional friction disc to
    stick to the pressure plate or flywheel. So if you want to be safe,
    you'll want to take the 3 normal clutch parts, release fork, rear main
    engine seal, front transmission seal, pilot bearing, and something to at
    least sand the surface of the flywheel.

    --
    Mike F.
    Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

    Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
    (But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)
     
    Mike F, Nov 3, 2004
    #3
  4. ignatz

    ignatz Guest

    Thanx for the help. On this car, will I be able to see the pressure plate
    and any problem thru an inspection area or will I need to remove the
    transmission to find the problem? This will be handy to know before I dig
    in. thanx, bob
     
    ignatz, Nov 4, 2004
    #4
  5. ignatz

    Robert Dietz Guest

    You'll probably have to go in. You can see some by pulling the clutch
    arm boot out of the way but not much. I would do what Mike F. said plus
    a clutch kit. Most of the aftermarket (ATE) clutch kits come with a disc
    alignment tool.

    Bob
     
    Robert Dietz, Nov 4, 2004
    #5
  6. ignatz

    ignatz Guest

    OK - thats great - I think I will just yank it - thanx for all the help,
    bob ps I am very familiar with this car , and anyone needing any info on
    the 240 series just let me know.
     
    ignatz, Nov 4, 2004
    #6
  7. I once did a far-from-home clutch replacement on a 1987 240. The only piece
    I forgot to take with me was the gasket between the transmission and the
    bellhousing. I fashioned one on the spot from cardboard. Big mistake. I
    made it home o.k. but had to take the transmission back out to put in the
    right gasket two weeks later.

    On a related note, I once had a clutch failure on my 1976 264 where the
    lever point of the release lever snapped off the aluminum bellhousing. I
    had to replace the bellhousing.

    -RL
     
    Robert Lutwak, Nov 5, 2004
    #7
  8. ignatz

    James Sweet Guest


    Why did you even separate the tranny from the bellhousing? I've only ever
    done that once and it was because the original gasket had started leaking.
     
    James Sweet, Nov 6, 2004
    #8
  9. ignatz

    ignatz Guest

    Great info - thanx to all. I have a 1984 volvo 240 wagon that recently
    failed the new NOx standards for Ohio Echeck. It runs fine, and passes
    all other aspects of the emissions check. Any ideas? See no other
    problems. thanx, bob
     
    ignatz, Nov 12, 2004
    #9
  10. ignatz

    Mike F Guest

    High Nox is created by high combustion temperature.

    Common causes:

    1) The compression ratio can be increased by carbon buildup. Cleaning
    the combustion chamber with a top end cleaner may help if this is the
    cause - my uncle had good results with Goodwrench (GM) brand.

    2) Advanced ignition timing - make sure the timing is set correctly.

    3) The catalytic convertor reduces NOx in a different part than it
    cleans up HC and CO - if this part of the convertor is dead, then you'll
    need to change it.

    4) This only applies to the "MPG" version of 1981-1982 and electronic
    injected 240s from 1982 up to 1988 model year (yours is one). These can
    be identified by the ignition box mounted on the bracket with the
    windshield washer bottle. This ignition system tries to run the spark
    advanced as much as possible without detonation for fuel economy
    reasons. If everything else is operating correctly, disconnecting the
    vacuum connection to this box will make it "think" that the engine is
    running at full load all the time, with the resultant more conservative
    advance curve.

    --
    Mike F.
    Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

    Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
    (But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)
     
    Mike F, Nov 12, 2004
    #10
  11. ignatz

    ignatz Guest

    Hi! Thanx for all the info - I will check all this out asap. bob
     
    ignatz, Nov 13, 2004
    #11
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