1989 240 Squeaky front suspension

Discussion in 'Volvo 240' started by Danny, Jul 29, 2004.

  1. Danny

    Danny Guest

    I've seen some posts about this in my archive searching but I haven't
    been able to resolve this yet. I have a squeak that can be reproduced
    by pushing down above the right front wheel. Even a small push of just
    one inch will cause this fairly loud squeak to happen. It does not
    sound like metal to metal. I have sprayed silicone all over the
    obvious areas such as control arm and sway bar bushings along with
    what I could reach inside the spring/strut area. I have not done
    inside the tie rod plastic covers because there is no noise when
    turning, only over bumps. This is driving me mildly batty. Any ideas?

    Danny, Jul 29, 2004
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  2. Danny

    Randy G. Guest

    You didn't mention how many miles or what the maintenance/repair in
    this area has been, (and I don't know the car specifically) but

    If this car has McPherson struts then the first likely spot are the
    cone bushings where the radius arm meets the front control arm. These
    are a wear item and should be replaced about every 80,000-100,000
    miles- more often depending on the driving conditions. If you have
    sprayed silicone in there, then just go ahead and replace them. These
    are not supposed to slip. If worn and then lubed they will begin to
    move and very soon thereafter destroy themselves. Metal to metal
    contact follows and will damage the control arm.

    The next likely place is the stabilizer (anti-roll bar). The mounts
    where the bar attaches to the frame (one on each side) is prone to
    squeak. Although not as likely to wear from the silicone spray there,
    ones it starts to squeak it is time for replacement. The links that
    attach the stabilizer to the control arm are the next place to check.

    I mention all the above as they are well within the ability of the
    backyard mechanic to repair. Beyond these it gets more difficult.
    __ __
    Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
    '93 960 Estate
    Randy G., Jul 29, 2004
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  3. Danny

    Robert Dietz Guest

    All true on a 7 series, however a 240 has none of those problems. The
    squeeky bedspring noise comes from the inner tie rod end. The ball end
    rusts and squeeks against the teflon liner inside the ball socket formed
    over the tie rod end. If you remove the boot from the rack and unscrew
    the rod end you may, with a goos bit of luck, be able to work some
    lubricant in between the mating surface. Unfortunately this seldom more
    than a temporary fix and the noisey tie rod will need to be re[;aced.

    Robert Dietz, Jul 30, 2004
  4. Danny

    Danny Guest

    The thing that doesn't make sense to me about the tie rod ends causing
    this is that the noise is only when hitting a small bump, never from
    any sort of turning. Would't a tie rod squek manifest during a turn
    and NOT a bump?

    Danny, Jul 30, 2004
  5. Possible silly answer.

    You say if you push down only 1 inch you have the noise.
    You should lay under the car or put it on a ramp and get someone to push
    down, sound a silly answer but you ears should direct you to the area where
    the noise is.
    Another option is if you think you have found the area hold it with the palm
    of you hand and get someone to push, the noise will travel through the palm
    of you hand and tell you where the noise is.

    Don't let it drive you crazy, treat it as a challenge you are able to solve.
    Remember we have the brains at the end its only a machine.

    [email protected], Jul 30, 2004
  6. Danny

    Mike F Guest

    My 240 had a bad squeak where the large bushing at the rear of the
    control arm was rubbing on the large washer welded to the rear of the
    control arm. I had to loosen the nut to get space to get lube

    Also, ipd sway bars are notorious for squeaking in the bushings between
    the sway bar and frame rails. These also require disassembly to lube

    Mike F.
    Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

    NOTE: new address!!
    Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
    (But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)
    Mike F, Jul 30, 2004
  7. Danny

    Randy G. Guest

    ....to do this with such limited clearance vehicles (I had a vw van,
    full-size Blazer and a 4wd Ford PU) drive two wheels up onto a curb
    with the other two still in the street- instant ramps! You can change
    oil or such this way, but it does give you a was to get under the car
    when you need to without getting out the jack and stands.
    __ __
    Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
    '93 960 Estate
    Randy G., Jul 30, 2004
  8. Danny

    Randy G. Guest

    __ __
    Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
    '93 960 Estate
    Randy G., Aug 1, 2004
  9. Danny

    Bruce Pick Guest

    When changing oil on our 240's, I never need to raise the car. I expect
    it would be the same with 700 or 900 series cars. I lay down alongside
    the driver's door with my shoulder near the mud flap. I'm able to
    extend a wrench to loosen the drain plug, and loosen it with two
    fingers. I'm only medium-tall at about 5'9", so I'm sure that many
    other shade-tree mechanics will be able to use the same method.

    I'm sure it would work just as well from the passenger side. My left
    eye is is much better than my right, so my method gives me a good view
    via my good eye.

    Bruce Pick, Aug 1, 2004
  10. Danny

    Randy G. Guest

    I bought a pair of ramps. With short lengths of 2" x 12" boards under
    the ramp I can drive the 960 up without scraping anything. Since the
    drain plug is at the back of the oil pan is works out fine. Probably
    lets me get a little more oil out than if it were level.

    You can make a set for oil change purposes easily enough. SOrt of like
    this (not to scale):
    | |
    | \
    | \
    | \

    Put rubber or non-skid tape on the bottom

    __ __
    Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
    '93 960 Estate
    Randy G., Aug 1, 2004
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