1990 240 doesn't want to start anymore

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Someone

1990 240 auto, 90,000 miles. bought the car 4 months ago and drove
3,000 miles with it.

Car was starting fine except I noticed a few times I would turn the
key and nothing would happen except all the lights in the instrument
panel would come on as well as the headlight (just like a normal
start). It seldom happened. Usually I would turn the key off and on
and then it would start. But it happened like once a month.
Yesterday I drove 4 hours on highway, then stop 1 1/2 hour and when I
tried to start it, it was not working. I simply turned the key in the
off position and then turned the key to start it and it worked.

Today I drove a few miles and turned off the engine. When I started a
few minutes later, at first it didn't want to start. I tried and
tried, by rotating the key from the off position to the start position
and then it did start. As soon as I arrived home (a few miles), I
stop the car and then tried to start it again and it did not start.

I waited a few hours and tried again and it didn't start. There is
nothing wrong with the fuses, nor the battery.

If you could make a suggestion as to where I should look, I would be
extremely grateful.

Thanks in advance.
 
Someone said:
1990 240 auto, 90,000 miles. bought the car 4 months ago and drove
3,000 miles with it.

Car was starting fine except I noticed a few times I would turn the
key and nothing would happen except all the lights in the instrument
panel would come on as well as the headlight (just like a normal
start). It seldom happened. Usually I would turn the key off and on
and then it would start. But it happened like once a month.
Yesterday I drove 4 hours on highway, then stop 1 1/2 hour and when I
tried to start it, it was not working. I simply turned the key in the
off position and then turned the key to start it and it worked.

Today I drove a few miles and turned off the engine. When I started a
few minutes later, at first it didn't want to start. I tried and
tried, by rotating the key from the off position to the start position
and then it did start. As soon as I arrived home (a few miles), I
stop the car and then tried to start it again and it did not start.

I waited a few hours and tried again and it didn't start. There is
nothing wrong with the fuses, nor the battery.

If you could make a suggestion as to where I should look, I would be
extremely grateful.

Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...


Wiggle the shifter, assuming this is an automatic, then try to start it.
 
Wiggle the shifter, assuming this is an automatic, then try to start it.
Click to expand...

Yes, it is an auto, but wiggling the shifter as well moving it in all
the gears and then trying does not help.

Is there a solenoid or something like that? My friend who had a early
90's Audi told me that she had teh same problem and after the dealer
changed tehstarter, etc. they found out it was a solenoid (or a name
similar to that). Except it cost her $700 before they find out.

I would appreciate all suggestions as to what to try next.
 
Someone said:
Yes, it is an auto, but wiggling the shifter as well moving it in all
the gears and then trying does not help.

Is there a solenoid or something like that? My friend who had a early
90's Audi told me that she had teh same problem and after the dealer
changed tehstarter, etc. they found out it was a solenoid (or a name
similar to that). Except it cost her $700 before they find out.

I would appreciate all suggestions as to what to try next.
Click to expand...

Its not so common these days, but yes it could be a sticky solenoid or
dry engaging fork the big round thing on the side of the starter, its a
big relay and drives the gear to the engine. Standard practice is light
tapping with a hammer on the solenoid or use the handle of the hammer.
Don't hit it too hard with the metal end of the hammer, you might dent
the casing. Also watch out you don't hit or short the live feed.
 
Its not so common these days, but yes it could be a sticky solenoid or
dry engaging fork the big round thing on the side of the starter, its a
big relay and drives the gear to the engine. Standard practice is light
tapping with a hammer on the solenoid or use the handle of the hammer.
Don't hit it too hard with the metal end of the hammer, you might dent
the casing. Also watch out you don't hit or short the live feed.
Click to expand...

I stopped by the indep. garage I go to and they said that there is a
90%probability that it is the starter. Does that makes sense?
 
Its not so common these days, but yes it could be a sticky solenoid or
dry engaging fork the big round thing on the side of the starter, its a
big relay and drives the gear to the engine. Standard practice is light
tapping with a hammer on the solenoid or use the handle of the hammer.
Don't hit it too hard with the metal end of the hammer, you might dent
the casing. Also watch out you don't hit or short the live feed.
Click to expand...

I tried the best I could what you suggested, but it doesn't seem to
work. Or I'm incompetent, lol!

At the garage, should I tell them to change the solenoid first or go
with the starter if this is what they wish to change?

Thanks.
 
Its not so common these days, but yes it could be a sticky solenoid or
dry engaging fork the big round thing on the side of the starter, its a
big relay and drives the gear to the engine. Standard practice is light
tapping with a hammer on the solenoid or use the handle of the hammer.
Don't hit it too hard with the metal end of the hammer, you might dent
the casing. Also watch out you don't hit or short the live feed.
Click to expand...

One more thing, I also own a 93 240. Are there parts you would
suggest me to switch just to see what happens?
 
Its not so common these days, but yes it could be a sticky solenoid
or dry engaging fork the big round thing on the side of the starter,
its a big relay and drives the gear to the engine. Standard
practice is light tapping with a hammer on the solenoid or use the
handle of the hammer. Don't hit it too hard with the metal end of
the hammer, you might dent the casing. Also watch out you don't hit
or short the live feed.
Click to expand...

I tried the best I could what you suggested, but it doesn't seem to
work. Or I'm incompetent, lol!

At the garage, should I tell them to change the solenoid first or go
with the starter if this is what they wish to change?

Thanks.[/QUOTE]

Have them test first, find out what's wrong and call you with the
results to see what you want to do. Don't just tell them to do
something.

Could be the starter solenoid, could be the ignition lockout from the
transmission, could be the ignition switch, could be a loose wire
somewhere, could be corrosion on the fuse terminals, could be the...
 
Yes, it is an auto, but wiggling the shifter as well moving it in all
the gears and then trying does not help.

Is there a solenoid or something like that? My friend who had a early
90's Audi told me that she had teh same problem and after the dealer
changed tehstarter, etc. they found out it was a solenoid (or a name
similar to that). Except it cost her $700 before they find out.

I would appreciate all suggestions as to what to try next.
Click to expand...


There is an interlock switch in the shifter assembly that allows it to
be started only in P or N, this can wear out or get out of adjustment.

The ignition switches fail from time to time, it's not common but it
does happen.

Starters fail, the solenoid is part of the starter, it's not hard to
test but you'll need a test light or multimeter and an assistant to turn
the key.

I've also seen battery cables fail, the big one from the battery to a
starter, haven't seen it on a Volvo, but it could happen.
 
Someone said:
I tried the best I could what you suggested, but it doesn't seem to
work. Or I'm incompetent, lol!

At the garage, should I tell them to change the solenoid first or go
with the starter if this is what they wish to change?

Thanks.
Click to expand...


The solenoid and the starter are one piece, they can't be replaced
separately.


Starter from any 200, 700, or 900 series Volvo with a 4 cylinder engine
from 1975 to 1994 will bolt right in. There are two different styles,
but they both fit.
 
Someone said:
One more thing, I also own a 93 240. Are there parts you would
suggest me to switch just to see what happens?
Click to expand...

If you can swop over the whole starter assembly then yes it would
eliminate other things, but it is a little easier to start with voltage
tests. Check there is power getting there first from the big cable and
from the ignition key (the small wire to the solenoid) while someone
tries to start it.

The starter is only held in normally by 2 large bolts into the
block/bell housing and a small nut for the big power feed. If you can
remove these its the hardest part. Disconnect the battery first to
avoid shorting to the chassis.

Starters are also easy to fix, you can repair almost any problem at
least temporarily, unless there is a mechanical breakage. Sticky
solenoids can be greased, worn brushes can be cleaned up and the brush
surfaces rubbed down with wet/dry, new brushes cost nothing and can be
resoldered in, bushes can be replaced with basic tools.
 
The starter is only held in normally by 2 large bolts into the
block/bell housing and a small nut for the big power feed. If you can
remove these its the hardest part. Disconnect the battery first to
avoid shorting to the chassis.

Starters are also easy to fix, you can repair almost any problem at
least temporarily, unless there is a mechanical breakage. Sticky
solenoids can be greased, worn brushes can be cleaned up and the brush
surfaces rubbed down with wet/dry, new brushes cost nothing and can be
resoldered in, bushes can be replaced with basic tools.
Click to expand...



Those bolts are a real pain on automatic equipped cars, there's a lot
more room around the manual. Some long extensions and a universal joint
help, a large breaker bar is nice too, they tend to be very tight.

I've not had much luck fixing starters, one car I worked on the innards
of the solenoid had kinda fallen apart, the starter I got from the
junkyard ended up being dead, some chunks of the copper windings had
cracked and fell out, no idea how that happened. The replacement they
gave me for that lasted a couple months then it failed, finally bought a
remanufactured one from Schucks that had a lifetime warranty and it's
been fine. No idea why the string of bad luck there, starter problems in
240s are fairly rare.
 
Thanks to all for your help and advice. Sorry for the delay in
writing back, but I had to leave the country...

The problem was the idiotic wire outside the starter. With years and
rust, the wire ended up cut in two. Volvo shoulw have put some
plastic around that 2 inches long wire!!!

Anyway, I couldn't reach the bolt. The bottom one is fine and could
loosen it up, but the top one was just too hard. So I had it towed to
the indep. garage and they removed it.

$160 for starter and $70 labor
 
Someone said:
Thanks to all for your help and advice. Sorry for the delay in
writing back, but I had to leave the country...

The problem was the idiotic wire outside the starter. With years and
rust, the wire ended up cut in two. Volvo shoulw have put some
plastic around that 2 inches long wire!!!

Anyway, I couldn't reach the bolt. The bottom one is fine and could
loosen it up, but the top one was just too hard. So I had it towed to
the indep. garage and they removed it.

$160 for starter and $70 labor
Click to expand...


That top bolt is a real pain on the automatic transmission 240s. You
need some extensions and a universal joint, as well as some patience.
 
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