1990 740 Turbo - Charged battery outside car, now car won't start

Discussion in 'Volvo 740' started by Skonnie, Sep 10, 2006.

  1. Skonnie

    Skonnie Guest

    Ohdeargodpleasehelpme, I recently charged a relatively new battery,
    reinstalled it correctly, and now can't get the engine or starter to
    turn over. Power windows, locks, lights all work, but no discernable
    sound comes from the car, save for a slight clicking. My thinking is
    that I have unwittingly "reset" some of the sensors, or some such
    thing. I just bought the car ($700, so there was bound to be problems)
    and am unsure of the condition of the alternator. The battery drained
    quickly after I bought it, but it might be due to several hours of
    cleaning and having the doorlights on. Any advice, particularly of the
    DIY variety would be greatly appreciated.
     
    Skonnie, Sep 10, 2006
    #1
    1. Advertisements

  2. Skonnie

    zencraps Guest

     
    zencraps, Sep 10, 2006
    #2
    1. Advertisements

  3. Skonnie

    zencraps Guest

    Are the cables neat and clean, especially where they hook on to the
    battery terminals?

    Is the battery in fact "good?" Perhaps it has a bad cell, and can't
    put out enough power to turn over the engine, although there is enough
    to run the accessories.

    The fact that you hear a "click" would imply you are getting power to
    the solenoid, so the starting circuit is OK.

    If the cables are clean, the battery is good, the problem is most
    likely with the starter / starter solenoid or its connections.
     
    zencraps, Sep 10, 2006
    #3
  4. The starter circuit in the 740 is as simple and classic as they come - no
    sensors or other mystery stuff. The battery should have lasted longer than a
    few hours of the interior lights being on, so I think it's very likely to be
    bad. One of the failure modes I've seen a lot in the last few decades is
    what I believe to be broken connections inside the battery. When that
    happens the car won't start and the headlights go out when you try the
    starter. A shadetree diagnosis (and temporary repair) is done with a hammer,
    around a 12 or 16 ounce is good. A few modest whacks, like driving a nail,
    on each post often jams things back together and will get the car started.

    Alternatively, just swap in a battery from another car if you can borrrow
    one. After all, what are friends for?

    Mike
     
    Michael Pardee, Sep 10, 2006
    #4
  5. Something I should mention, as you don't know how good the alternator is.
    Believe the voltmeter more than the warning light. As long as you are
    noticably above the red you are good. The most common alternator failure by
    far in these is worn brushes, and I dunno for sure about the 1990 but in our
    1985 the warning light does not come on when the brushes wear out. The
    current to light the warning has to go through the brushes.... That
    condition is also heralded by a real non-event; the "battery" warning light
    does not come on in the "run" position of the ignition switch before you
    start the engine.

    When the brushes wear out (expect approx 150K mile life) they can be
    replaced by replacing the regulator assembly they are built into and without
    removing the alternator. The brushes themselves may also be available in the
    Specialty Hardware section of Ace hardware stores (bring 'em in and match
    'em up), but I'm not sure of that. Check back when the time comes.

    Mike
     
    Michael Pardee, Sep 11, 2006
    #5
    1. Advertisements

Ask a Question

Want to reply to this thread or ask your own question?

You'll need to choose a username for the site, which only take a couple of moments (here). After that, you can post your question and our members will help you out.