1995 440 Tried to start - loud bang - now nothing ??

ivandurneen

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Hi

First post on here.

Went to start the 440 this morning, it tried to start as normal then after about a second there was a loud bang. Now it won't do anything.

I know *nothing* really about cars. I have someone coming out later to look at it but just wanted any ideas of what could have happened/how serious this is.

I'm praying its something simple but as always expecting the worst : )

TIA
 
Hi

First post on here.

Went to start the 440 this morning, it tried to start as normal then after about a second there was a loud bang. Now it won't do anything.

I know *nothing* really about cars. I have someone coming out later to look at it but just wanted any ideas of what could have happened/how serious this is.

I'm praying its something simple but as always expecting the worst : )

TIA

Doesn't even turn over, or turns over and doesn't fire? If it still turns over, maybe moisture got in the distributor cap? If it doesn't, the engine may be hydrolocked or something. What motor is in a 440?
 
Doesn't even turn over, or turns over and doesn't fire? If it still turns over, maybe moisture got in the distributor cap? If it doesn't, the engine may be hydrolocked or something. What motor is in a 440?- Hidequoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Thanks.

Doesn't even turn over : (
 
Hi

First post on here.

Went to start the 440 this morning, it tried to start as normal then after about a second  there was a loud bang. Now it won't do anything.

I know *nothing* really about cars. I have someone coming out later to look at it but just wanted any ideas of what could have happened/how serious this is.

I'm praying its something simple but as always expecting the worst    : )

TIA

And what is battery voltage are cables recently cleaned, try a jump
 
And what is battery voltage are cables recently cleaned, try a jump- Hidequoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Thanks for replies.

Kind of embarassing. The guy came out to look at it and what do you know it started up fine ! He checked everything over and couldn't find anything obvious wrong. Has been very very wet here the last few days
- I'm guessing it was something to do with that.

Least it didn't cost me anything.
 
Thanks for replies.

Kind of embarassing. The guy came out to look at it and what do you know it started up fine ! He checked everything over and couldn't find anything obvious wrong. Has been very very wet here the last few days
- I'm guessing it was something to do with that.

Least it didn't cost me anything.

That's good news.

fwiw, the loud bang is fuel igniting in the air box.
Don't touch with the gas pedal while trying to start it. Fuel injected motors (when they're working right) do all the fuel stuff automatically. Pump the gas, risk blowing off a intake hose or the air box.

(Tip I learned here, years ago) Instead of cranking and cranking continuously, let it turn over a couple times, stop, then try again. The fuel system needs pressure in order for all the systems to work. Older fuel injection systems, the pressure bleeds down when the car sits. Try to start it with no pressure and the ignition doesn't get the signal to spark. Turn it over a couple times to get the pressure up. Now all the sensors are happy. You get spark next time you turn it over and it fires right up.
 
That's good news.

fwiw, the loud bang is fuel igniting in the air box.
Don't touch with the gas pedal while trying to start it. Fuel injected motors (when they're working right) do all the fuel stuff automatically. Pump the gas, risk blowing off a intake hose or the air box.

(Tip I learned here, years ago) Instead of cranking and cranking continuously, let it turn over a couple times, stop, then try again. The fuel system needs pressure in order for all the systems to work. Older fuel injection systems, the pressure bleeds down when the car sits. Try to start it with no pressure and the ignition doesn't get the signal to spark. Turn it over a couple times to get the pressure up. Now all the sensors are happy. You get spark next time you turn it over and it fires right up.

I've had a loud bang caused by moisture in the distributor causing unburned fuel vapor to build up in the exhaust system. I've seen it split a muffler open. I had a spark plug wire fall off on my 240T once at nearly full throttle, the backfires sounded like gunshots and the thrust bent the tailpipe.
 
James said:
I've had a loud bang caused by moisture in the distributor causing unburned fuel vapor to build up in the exhaust system. I've seen it split a muffler open. I had a spark plug wire fall off on my 240T once at nearly full throttle, the backfires sounded like gunshots and the thrust bent the tailpipe.

Thats right.
A backfire in the air box is more of a whump than a gunshot.

Click off the ignition for a second while traveling through a tunnel.
The bang is impressive.

Never had much trouble with the plug wire fell off thing. They go on with a click and a twist... But, if you forget to twist it the boot can push it off.

Back when I raced boats, only times we had anything like that was when the electrode squirted out of the plug (16.5:1 will do that) and once the engine builders helper left the rubber grommet out of the plug socket on a plug and pushed the boot down over it.

Burned more than a few wires flopping around on the headers though.

Or the mag isn't tight enough, the motor gets real retarded and melts the headers (and any body parts nearby) from all the raw fuel dumping in them and burning.

I miss racing...
 
clay said:
Thats right.
A backfire in the air box is more of a whump than a gunshot.

Click off the ignition for a second while traveling through a tunnel.
The bang is impressive.

Never had much trouble with the plug wire fell off thing. They go on with a click and a twist... But, if you forget to twist it the boot can push it off.

Back when I raced boats, only times we had anything like that was when the electrode squirted out of the plug (16.5:1 will do that) and once the engine builders helper left the rubber grommet out of the plug socket on a plug and pushed the boot down over it.

Burned more than a few wires flopping around on the headers though.

Or the mag isn't tight enough, the motor gets real retarded and melts the headers (and any body parts nearby) from all the raw fuel dumping in them and burning.

I miss racing...

I had a 340 1.7 (similar engine but carbarettor). When it was oldish (100K miles /10 years) it started to have real trouble running alot of the time, stalling when pulling out of junctions (classic sign of weak spark). Problem was due to oil in the distributor, and the disti/cam seal had worn a lip/dent on the cam. Solution was to move the cam seal up a bit and install flush with the surface rather than all the way in (maunal actually said flush too). However this didn't seem to work indefinately and with other leakings and carb problems I scrapped it eventually.

My 940 has a similar problem with oil in the disti, but much less severe (there are 2 seals), it is responsible for a slight hesitation and some MPG loss. I have been trying to change the seal in it for some time, but need a special tool.

I have hence condemned all engines with head end distis as unreliable (although the 940 soldiers on, the 340 wouldn't run).

I'm fairly sure this 440 will have the same bits at the 340.
 
Tony said:
I had a 340 1.7 (similar engine but carbarettor). When it was oldish (100K miles /10 years) it started to have real trouble running alot of the time, stalling when pulling out of junctions (classic sign of weak spark). Problem was due to oil in the distributor, and the disti/cam seal had worn a lip/dent on the cam. Solution was to move the cam seal up a bit and install flush with the surface rather than all the way in (maunal actually said flush too). However this didn't seem to work indefinately and with other leakings and carb problems I scrapped it eventually.

My 940 has a similar problem with oil in the disti, but much less severe (there are 2 seals), it is responsible for a slight hesitation and some MPG loss. I have been trying to change the seal in it for some time, but need a special tool.

I have hence condemned all engines with head end distis as unreliable (although the 940 soldiers on, the 340 wouldn't run).

I'm fairly sure this 440 will have the same bits at the 340.

There's a LOT of 700/900 cars running around with the head mounted distributor. Mine works fine and doesn't leak there, despite being 22 years old with nearly 300K on it. I did have to replace the o-ring at one point.
 
James said:
There's a LOT of 700/900 cars running around with the head mounted distributor. Mine works fine and doesn't leak there, despite being 22 years old with nearly 300K on it. I did have to replace the o-ring at one point.

Yes, here too, I know they survive for some reason. My sisters family had 2 940s, the first one had a very dry distributor cap, the 2nd one I havn't checked but it doesn't seem to hesitate.

I have seen in a magazine a 940 disti cap totally distroyed by oil/misfire (I think).

The problem is obviously much less prevalent in the 940s, and perhaps 440s could have been upgraded. But at the end of the day the problem is not eliminated in 940s completely and is fundamentally a bad design. However it would not stop me recommending a 940, it would stop me recommending a 340 1.7 or a 440.
 

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