1995 440 Tried to start - loud bang - now nothing ??

  • Thread starter Thread starter ivandurneen
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ivandurneen

Hi

First post on here.

Went to start the 440 this morning, it tried to start as normal then
after about a second there was a loud bang. Now it won't do
anything.

I know *nothing* really about cars. I have someone coming out later to
look at it but just wanted any ideas of what could have happened/how
serious this is.

I'm praying its something simple but as always expecting the
worst : )

TIA
 
Hi

First post on here.

Went to start the 440 this morning, it tried to start as normal then
after about a second there was a loud bang. Now it won't do
anything.

I know *nothing* really about cars. I have someone coming out later to
look at it but just wanted any ideas of what could have happened/how
serious this is.

I'm praying its something simple but as always expecting the
worst : )

TIA
Click to expand...


Doesn't even turn over, or turns over and doesn't fire? If it still
turns over, maybe moisture got in the distributor cap? If it doesn't,
the engine may be hydrolocked or something. What motor is in a 440?
 
Doesn't even turn over, or turns over and doesn't fire? If it still
turns over, maybe moisture got in the distributor cap? If it doesn't,
the engine may be hydrolocked or something. What motor is in a 440?- Hidequoted text -

- Show quoted text -
Click to expand...

Thanks.

Doesn't even turn over : (
 
Hi

First post on here.

Went to start the 440 this morning, it tried to start as normal then
after about a second  there was a loud bang. Now it won't do
anything.

I know *nothing* really about cars. I have someone coming out later to
look at it but just wanted any ideas of what could have happened/how
serious this is.

I'm praying its something simple but as always expecting the
worst    : )

TIA
Click to expand...

And what is battery voltage are cables recently cleaned, try a jump
 
And what is battery voltage are cables recently cleaned, try a jump- Hidequoted text -

- Show quoted text -
Click to expand...


Thanks for replies.

Kind of embarassing. The guy came out to look at it and what do you
know it started up fine ! He checked everything over and couldn't find
anything obvious wrong. Has been very very wet here the last few days
- I'm guessing it was something to do with that.

Least it didn't cost me anything.
 
Thanks for replies.

Kind of embarassing. The guy came out to look at it and what do you
know it started up fine ! He checked everything over and couldn't find
anything obvious wrong. Has been very very wet here the last few days
- I'm guessing it was something to do with that.

Least it didn't cost me anything.
Click to expand...

That's good news.

fwiw, the loud bang is fuel igniting in the air box.
Don't touch with the gas pedal while trying to start it.
Fuel injected motors (when they're working right) do all the fuel stuff
automatically.
Pump the gas, risk blowing off a intake hose or the air box.

(Tip I learned here, years ago) Instead of cranking and cranking
continuously, let it turn over a couple times, stop, then try again.
The fuel system needs pressure in order for all the systems to work.
Older fuel injection systems, the pressure bleeds down when the car
sits. Try to start it with no pressure and the ignition doesn't get the
signal to spark.
Turn it over a couple times to get the pressure up. Now all the sensors
are happy. You get spark next time you turn it over and it fires right up.
 
That's good news.

fwiw, the loud bang is fuel igniting in the air box.
Don't touch with the gas pedal while trying to start it.
Fuel injected motors (when they're working right) do all the fuel stuff
automatically.
Pump the gas, risk blowing off a intake hose or the air box.

(Tip I learned here, years ago) Instead of cranking and cranking
continuously, let it turn over a couple times, stop, then try again.
The fuel system needs pressure in order for all the systems to work.
Older fuel injection systems, the pressure bleeds down when the car
sits. Try to start it with no pressure and the ignition doesn't get the
signal to spark.
Turn it over a couple times to get the pressure up. Now all the sensors
are happy. You get spark next time you turn it over and it fires right up.
Click to expand...



I've had a loud bang caused by moisture in the distributor causing
unburned fuel vapor to build up in the exhaust system. I've seen it
split a muffler open. I had a spark plug wire fall off on my 240T once
at nearly full throttle, the backfires sounded like gunshots and the
thrust bent the tailpipe.
 
James said:
I've had a loud bang caused by moisture in the distributor causing
unburned fuel vapor to build up in the exhaust system. I've seen it
split a muffler open. I had a spark plug wire fall off on my 240T once
at nearly full throttle, the backfires sounded like gunshots and the
thrust bent the tailpipe.
Click to expand...


Thats right.
A backfire in the air box is more of a whump than a gunshot.

Click off the ignition for a second while traveling through a tunnel.
The bang is impressive.

Never had much trouble with the plug wire fell off thing. They go on
with a click and a twist... But, if you forget to twist it the boot can
push it off.

Back when I raced boats, only times we had anything like that was when
the electrode squirted out of the plug (16.5:1 will do that) and once
the engine builders helper left the rubber grommet out of the plug
socket on a plug and pushed the boot down over it.

Burned more than a few wires flopping around on the headers though.

Or the mag isn't tight enough, the motor gets real retarded and melts
the headers (and any body parts nearby) from all the raw fuel dumping in
them and burning.

I miss racing...
 
clay said:
Thats right.
A backfire in the air box is more of a whump than a gunshot.

Click off the ignition for a second while traveling through a tunnel.
The bang is impressive.

Never had much trouble with the plug wire fell off thing. They go on
with a click and a twist... But, if you forget to twist it the boot can
push it off.

Back when I raced boats, only times we had anything like that was when
the electrode squirted out of the plug (16.5:1 will do that) and once
the engine builders helper left the rubber grommet out of the plug
socket on a plug and pushed the boot down over it.

Burned more than a few wires flopping around on the headers though.

Or the mag isn't tight enough, the motor gets real retarded and melts
the headers (and any body parts nearby) from all the raw fuel dumping in
them and burning.

I miss racing...
Click to expand...

I had a 340 1.7 (similar engine but carbarettor). When it was oldish
(100K miles /10 years) it started to have real trouble running alot of
the time, stalling when pulling out of junctions (classic sign of weak
spark). Problem was due to oil in the distributor, and the disti/cam
seal had worn a lip/dent on the cam. Solution was to move the cam seal
up a bit and install flush with the surface rather than all the way in
(maunal actually said flush too). However this didn't seem to work
indefinately and with other leakings and carb problems I scrapped it
eventually.

My 940 has a similar problem with oil in the disti, but much less severe
(there are 2 seals), it is responsible for a slight hesitation and some
MPG loss. I have been trying to change the seal in it for some time,
but need a special tool.

I have hence condemned all engines with head end distis as unreliable
(although the 940 soldiers on, the 340 wouldn't run).

I'm fairly sure this 440 will have the same bits at the 340.
 
Tony said:
I had a 340 1.7 (similar engine but carbarettor). When it was oldish
(100K miles /10 years) it started to have real trouble running alot of
the time, stalling when pulling out of junctions (classic sign of weak
spark). Problem was due to oil in the distributor, and the disti/cam
seal had worn a lip/dent on the cam. Solution was to move the cam seal
up a bit and install flush with the surface rather than all the way in
(maunal actually said flush too). However this didn't seem to work
indefinately and with other leakings and carb problems I scrapped it
eventually.

My 940 has a similar problem with oil in the disti, but much less severe
(there are 2 seals), it is responsible for a slight hesitation and some
MPG loss. I have been trying to change the seal in it for some time,
but need a special tool.

I have hence condemned all engines with head end distis as unreliable
(although the 940 soldiers on, the 340 wouldn't run).

I'm fairly sure this 440 will have the same bits at the 340.
Click to expand...


There's a LOT of 700/900 cars running around with the head mounted
distributor. Mine works fine and doesn't leak there, despite being 22
years old with nearly 300K on it. I did have to replace the o-ring at
one point.
 
James said:
There's a LOT of 700/900 cars running around with the head mounted
distributor. Mine works fine and doesn't leak there, despite being 22
years old with nearly 300K on it. I did have to replace the o-ring at
one point.
Click to expand...

Yes, here too, I know they survive for some reason. My sisters family
had 2 940s, the first one had a very dry distributor cap, the 2nd one I
havn't checked but it doesn't seem to hesitate.

I have seen in a magazine a 940 disti cap totally distroyed by
oil/misfire (I think).

The problem is obviously much less prevalent in the 940s, and perhaps
440s could have been upgraded. But at the end of the day the problem is
not eliminated in 940s completely and is fundamentally a bad design.
However it would not stop me recommending a 940, it would stop me
recommending a 340 1.7 or a 440.
 
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