1997 V70 Handbrake adjustment

  • Thread starter Thread starter Nick
  • Start date Start date
N

Nick

I haven't got a workshop manual yet but one thing needing doing urgently is
to adjust the handbrake - it seems to be just pulling up on one wheel only,
and the lever is about at the top of its travel.

Can someone tell me where the adjusters are and how to get to them if not
obvious please ? I guess they are at the rear of the lever, but I don't want
to start dismantling to find out if that's the wrong place.

Thanks,

Nick
 
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Nick said:
I haven't got a workshop manual yet but one thing needing doing
urgently is to adjust the handbrake - it seems to be just pulling up
on one wheel only, and the lever is about at the top of its travel.

Can someone tell me where the adjusters are and how to get to them if
not obvious please ? I guess they are at the rear of the lever, but I
don't want to start dismantling to find out if that's the wrong place.

Thanks,

Nick
Click to expand...

The rear brakes are combined units - disc brakes for stopping and drum
brakes for parking. You need to make sure that the shoes in the drums are
correctly adjusted before worrying about the cables. With the rear wheels
removed, you can get at the adjusters through holes in the drums. Turn the
adjusters with the end of a screwdriver until you can't rotate the disc, and
then back off about 3 clicks.

The cable is adjusted at the base of the lever, after removing part of the
centre armrest console. But there's only *one* adjuster and a balancing
lever - so this won't remove side to side imbalance if the shoes are too
much out of adjustement. Hence do the wheels first.
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!
 
Roger Mills said:
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,


The rear brakes are combined units - disc brakes for stopping and drum
brakes for parking. You need to make sure that the shoes in the drums are
correctly adjusted before worrying about the cables. With the rear wheels
removed, you can get at the adjusters through holes in the drums. Turn the
adjusters with the end of a screwdriver until you can't rotate the disc,
and then back off about 3 clicks.

The cable is adjusted at the base of the lever, after removing part of the
centre armrest console. But there's only *one* adjuster and a balancing
lever - so this won't remove side to side imbalance if the shoes are too
much out of adjustement. Hence do the wheels first.
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!
Click to expand...

Excellent - thanks Roger - will do it tomorrow

Nick
 
Whilst the wheels are off I guess it would be sensible to remove the drums
to check the state of the brake shoes.

Not having been there yet, is drum removal obvious or are there any obscure
points to look out for / gotchas ?

I did notice that when the handbrake was "full on" when bleeding them the
other day, I could turn the rear wheel by hand one way but not the other, as
if the shoe was grabbing / self-applying in one direction but not in the
other - I guess this would be not unusual though if they were grossly
mal-adjusted ( as I suspect they are )

Thanks,

Nick
 
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Nick said:
Whilst the wheels are off I guess it would be sensible to remove the
drums to check the state of the brake shoes.
Click to expand...
It may be a good idea. They don't normally wear because they're only used
for parking. I wonder whether yours have been binding.
Not having been there yet, is drum removal obvious or are there any
obscure points to look out for / gotchas ?
Click to expand...
The drum and disc are in one piece, so you have to remove the pads and
calliper to be able to remove the disc.

The pads are held in by two little pins which have to be knocked out. Then
use pliers on the ends of ther pads and the sides of the callipers to
retract the pistons. *Don't* lever against the discs. You should then be
able to pull the pads out. You then need to unbolt the calliper from the hub
[1], and support it to avoid straining the pipe. [No need to disconnect the
hydraulics]. Then fully slacken the handbrake adjusters and remove the
wheel-locating spigot pin. The disc/drum should then pull off. Make a note
of its rotational relationship with the hub so as to be able to put it back
in the same place.
I did notice that when the handbrake was "full on" when bleeding them
the other day, I could turn the rear wheel by hand one way but not
the other, as if the shoe was grabbing / self-applying in one
direction but not in the other - I guess this would be not unusual
though if they were grossly mal-adjusted ( as I suspect they are )
Click to expand...
I wonder whether something is deranged, preventing the shoes from being
located correctly. All will be revealed when you remove the drums.

Assuming you're in the UK, it would be worth arming yourself with Haynes
Manual No. 3573 - it contains quite a lot of useful information.

[1] The official instructions say to use new bolts - not refit the old
ones - when re-assembling. I don't know how important this is.
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!
 
Roger Mills said:
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Nick said:
Whilst the wheels are off I guess it would be sensible to remove the
drums to check the state of the brake shoes.
Click to expand...
It may be a good idea. They don't normally wear because they're only used
for parking. I wonder whether yours have been binding.
Not having been there yet, is drum removal obvious or are there any
obscure points to look out for / gotchas ?
Click to expand...
The drum and disc are in one piece, so you have to remove the pads and
calliper to be able to remove the disc.

The pads are held in by two little pins which have to be knocked out. Then
use pliers on the ends of ther pads and the sides of the callipers to
retract the pistons. *Don't* lever against the discs. You should then be
able to pull the pads out. You then need to unbolt the calliper from the
hub [1], and support it to avoid straining the pipe. [No need to
disconnect the hydraulics]. Then fully slacken the handbrake adjusters and
remove the wheel-locating spigot pin. The disc/drum should then pull off.
Make a note of its rotational relationship with the hub so as to be able
to put it back in the same place.
I did notice that when the handbrake was "full on" when bleeding them
the other day, I could turn the rear wheel by hand one way but not
the other, as if the shoe was grabbing / self-applying in one
direction but not in the other - I guess this would be not unusual
though if they were grossly mal-adjusted ( as I suspect they are )
Click to expand...
I wonder whether something is deranged, preventing the shoes from being
located correctly. All will be revealed when you remove the drums.

Assuming you're in the UK, it would be worth arming yourself with Haynes
Manual No. 3573 - it contains quite a lot of useful information.

[1] The official instructions say to use new bolts - not refit the old
ones - when re-assembling. I don't know how important this is.
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!
Click to expand...


Thanks for that - I will find a Haynes manual and study - fortunately I have
two motor factors, and a large Halfords near me and a Volvo main dealer not
too far away as well so won't have to travel too far to get any bits I
need..

Thanks again,

Nick
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top