For sure the harness needs to be (will be) replaced.
I milked it way too long as it is.
Won't be able to get to it for two weeks though.
Barton is pretty much out of stock on replacement stuff. Maybe we can
piece together enough bits so I don't have to run every wire.
Until then, I need to figure which wires to mess with to get it running
(without the starter turning)
I've rebuilt several harnesses from scratch, it's a lot cheaper than a
new one. You'll need a bunch of wire, heatshrink tubing and electrical
tape, as well as a soldering iron, rosin core solder and a heat gun.
Best way is to remove the harness, lay it out on the ground or a sheet
of cardboard or something, and tape it so it stays put. Cut off the
outer sheath and then cut pieces of new wire of the correct size from
spools and lay them out. Solder joints where required and cover with
heatshrink, then slip heatshrink over the large sections of the new
harness to protect and contain the wires. Snip the connectors off the
old harness one at a time and splice them onto the ends of the new
harness by soldering and heatshrink over those too. Usually the big
connector to the ECU has a couple feet of good wire on it that is inside
the passenger compartment, I like to stagger the joints here to reduce
the chance of a sharp bit poking through the heatshrink and shorting. It
should also be mentioned that you do NOT want to cut the wires to the
knock sensor and O2 sensor connector, they are shielded coaxial cables.
Don't try to patch up and keep going on what you've got, it's just
asking for a fried ECU, as well as it's dangerous, your car could stall
while pulling out into traffic or have an engine compartment fire which
can quickly spread to the entire car.
