240 -- removing brake lines?

I've got an '89 240 wagon, and would like to replace the brake calipers. No
problem getting the two bolts holding them in place, but absolutely unable
to get the brake line free from the caliper! Tried penetrating oil (Kroil is
my favorite, but even that failed!), another spray that claimed to cool the
fitting so it would turn, several different wrenches (yes, we used a flare
wrench), but no go...

Anybody got any other suggestions?

 

What's happening when you attempt this? Is the nut stripping, or are
you afraid you'll break the threaded part of the line? I recently
snapped off the bleeder nipple and had a lot of fun drilling that out.
We needed a drill press and then an easy-out tap to get the rest out.
I guess worst case is you end up breaking the connection on the brake
line and have to replace the line - and maybe drill out the bits.

I'd try more penetrating oil and then maybe try a torch.

 

A good dousing with PB Blaster or similar penetrant helps a lot. Also make
sure you're using a proper wrench, not an adjustable one. I recomment a
notched box end wrench made for the purpose, you also can saw a notch out of
any box end to allow it to pass over the line yet still grip several sides.

 

part of the reason for replacing the calipers is that they are old, and I
really need to rebuild them and replace the rubber seals. The other reason
is that I did what you did: broke off 3 of the bleeder valves a couple weeks
ago! Fortunately, the brakes are working, the valves never turned at all
before breaking off...

When we tried to remove the brake line fittings at the caliper, the fitting
never turned at all (similar to the bleeder valves... frozen in place!).
They were starting to round from the wrench , so we finally gave up for now.
A friend wanted to disconnect them farther back, but that looked like too
much trouble by that time, and we'd still have to deal with the caliper
fitting anyway, so we just put it all back and I drove home, no problem.

Would still like to do the replacements, but ......

 

_____
Frozen fittings on a 1989 240 Volvo are not uncommon in areas where salt
is used during the winter months. A bit of heat with a very small torch
may do the trick if the usual stock penetrating fluids don't work. I
rebuilt all the brakes on a 1981 wagon last year. At least two of the
fittings on the front end would turn, but the lines were stuck inside
the fitting, so they just broke off. I made new lines from standard
brake line stock, using the drilled out metric fittings. You will need
a flaring tool that can do the "mushroom flare" style.

Or, you could buy some of the short lengths of pre-manufactured Japanese
brake lines. They come flared with fittings that should work in the
Volvo calipers. The wrapped shape around the strut tube is not that
important, as long as the lines dont't touch anything in full left or
right steering positions.

Or, you could pay many $$ and get real Volvo parts which are made of a
special alloy. You should consider replacing the two rubber brake hoses
as well. This will involve more fittings that could be frozen.

Are you planning to split the calipers to clean and service them with
new rubber parts?

 

Hi, Perry;

Welcome to the rust belt! I like Kroil too, and recently bought a gallon.
PBlaster also works well. But these are just penetrants with a little
lubricating action. Rust - iron oxide - is like an intensely hard ceramic.
Regardless of what the label says, rust doesn't "dissolve". Once it's in
there, it likes to stay. For really stubborn bonding, you need to find a way
of breaking up the grains of rust - cracking them into smaller pieces - so
you can get some movement going.
What often works is tapping the end of the bolt or whatever with a
relatively light hammer. In your case you'll need something that sits over
the line and still lets you pound the fitting. An old heavy-duty adjustable
wrench should work. Just hit it as close to the line as you can.
Between pounding, when your arm needs a rest, try turning the hex
fitting, quite gently, in alternate directions. Try to loosen it a little,
then tighten it, then loosen it and so forth. Then go back to pounding. When
you feel even the slightest movement in the fitting, squirt in more
penetrating oil. Don't assume that, because it'll turn 5 or 10 degrees, it's
ready to come out. That's usually around the time you break things! Keep
going with the pounding and rocking until the rust is completely powdered
and ready to let go.
Heat - maybe. It usually helps, but only if you can get differential
expansion - the outside part hotter than the inside. Tough to do with
calipers. Even tougher to do without damaging piston seals.

About 25 years ago I replaced the brake lines of a '64 long-frame Land
Rover. The steel had rotted completely through and replacements lines
weren't readily available. I used 1/8" copper tubing. Easy to work with and,
last I heard, that repair was still holding up.

Pete (fP)