240 starter removal issue

  • Thread starter Thread starter framed
  • Start date Start date
F

framed

I'm trying to remove the starter from my 91 240 all day, but to no
avail. There are two bolts that attach it to the engine block, and the
bottom one was a breeze. The top one, however, is completely
inaccessable. Any suggestions on getting it off? I even bought 18
inches worth of ratchet extension, and heaved with all my might, and
all I did was break the ratchet extension.
 
framed said:
I'm trying to remove the starter from my 91 240 all day, but to no
avail. There are two bolts that attach it to the engine block, and the
bottom one was a breeze. The top one, however, is completely
inaccessable. Any suggestions on getting it off? I even bought 18
inches worth of ratchet extension, and heaved with all my might, and
all I did was break the ratchet extension.
Click to expand...
I'm not sure, but is there a nut on the other end of that bolt, on the back
side of the bell housing? If so, it is imperative to remove the nut because
the bolt just won't turn with the nut tight.

Mike
 
framed said:
I'm trying to remove the starter from my 91 240 all day, but to no
avail. There are two bolts that attach it to the engine block, and the
bottom one was a breeze. The top one, however, is completely
inaccessable. Any suggestions on getting it off? I even bought 18
inches worth of ratchet extension, and heaved with all my might, and
all I did was break the ratchet extension.
Click to expand...


On the manual gearbox cars there's just enough clearance, but the auto
transmission is larger so you need a U-joint and some extensions. It's
tricky and often you have to go one click at a time for what seems like eons
but it can be done.
 
framed said:
I'm trying to remove the starter from my 91 240 all day, but to no
avail. There are two bolts that attach it to the engine block, and the
bottom one was a breeze. The top one, however, is completely
inaccessable. Any suggestions on getting it off? I even bought 18
inches worth of ratchet extension, and heaved with all my might, and
all I did was break the ratchet extension.
Click to expand...
The only way I am able to do this without any real problem is to lower
the transmission cross member which gives you the clearance to access
the top bolt
Glenn K
Certified Volvo Technician
ASE Certified Technician
 
I removed 3 of these from the local pick-n-pull, because they fit
practically all models back to forever, including the otherwise
cost-prohibitive replacement for vintage 544, 122, and 1800 models from the
'50s through the '70s.

Anyway, two 12" ratchet extensions provide enough length and flex in the
middle joint to get that 2nd nut from the rear. I haven't seen these seized
with rust in Texas, but you may consider an extra long straw/tube to get a
good shot of Liquid Wrench on the nut and bolt threads, and wait about a 1/2
hour to let it do the muscle work for you. Cheaper than broken ratchets.
 
I removed 3 of these from the local pick-n-pull, because they fit
practically all models back to forever, including the otherwise
cost-prohibitive replacement for vintage 544, 122, and 1800 models from the
'50s through the '70s.

Anyway, two 12" ratchet extensions provide enough length and flex in the
middle joint to get that 2nd nut from the rear. I haven't seen these seized
with rust in Texas, but you may consider an extra long straw/tube to get a
good shot of Liquid Wrench on the nut and bolt threads, and wait about a 1/2
hour to let it do the muscle work for you. Cheaper than broken ratchets.






- Show quoted text -
Click to expand...

With all the ratchet extensions I bought (18") it was like I was
coiling a spring every time I tried to apply pressure. Besides, I
couldn't get at it straight on, thereby necessitating the use of a
ratchet joint. I felt I was about to break something when I put all my
weight on it, and I also felt like the nut was not even about to budge.
 
framed said:
With all the ratchet extensions I bought (18") it was like I was
coiling a spring every time I tried to apply pressure. Besides, I
couldn't get at it straight on, thereby necessitating the use of a
ratchet joint. I felt I was about to break something when I put all my
weight on it, and I also felt like the nut was not even about to budge.
Click to expand...
If you are saying the bolt has a nut on the back side, concentrate on that.
The bolt just won't loosen as long as the nut is tight.

If there is a nut and it is accessible enough, try this. Clamp a pair of
vise-grips on the nut as hard as you possibly can, then spray penetrant
(preferably not WD-40; use PB Blaster or other genuine penetrant) on the end
of the nut where the threads disappear into the nut, concentrating on the
area opposite where the vise-grips are clamped down. Let it soak up to half
an hour. If another pair of flats on the nut is accessible, clamp the
vise-grips down hard on those and repeat the spray and soak. Doing this
forces the threads together where the vise-grips are clamped down and opens
up a tiny gap 90 degrees from there. The penetrant can reach deep inside the
fitting and the force breaks any adhesions in the threads. I don't know how
much it reduces the torque, but every time I've had to resort to this
technique and been able to get access it has been successful in freeing the
nut.

If all fails, you may have to rent an impact driver and socket. Again, if
there is a nut don't put the driver on the bolt head - it will likely break
the bolt. But then it will come out....

Mike
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top