240 starter removal issue

Discussion in 'Volvo 240' started by framed, May 17, 2007.

  1. framed

    framed Guest

    I'm trying to remove the starter from my 91 240 all day, but to no
    avail. There are two bolts that attach it to the engine block, and the
    bottom one was a breeze. The top one, however, is completely
    inaccessable. Any suggestions on getting it off? I even bought 18
    inches worth of ratchet extension, and heaved with all my might, and
    all I did was break the ratchet extension.
     
    framed, May 17, 2007
    #1
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  2. I'm not sure, but is there a nut on the other end of that bolt, on the back
    side of the bell housing? If so, it is imperative to remove the nut because
    the bolt just won't turn with the nut tight.

    Mike
     
    Michael Pardee, May 17, 2007
    #2
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  3. framed

    James Sweet Guest


    On the manual gearbox cars there's just enough clearance, but the auto
    transmission is larger so you need a U-joint and some extensions. It's
    tricky and often you have to go one click at a time for what seems like eons
    but it can be done.
     
    James Sweet, May 17, 2007
    #3
  4. framed

    Glenn Klein Guest

    The only way I am able to do this without any real problem is to lower
    the transmission cross member which gives you the clearance to access
    the top bolt
    Glenn K
    Certified Volvo Technician
    ASE Certified Technician
     
    Glenn Klein, May 18, 2007
    #4
  5. I removed 3 of these from the local pick-n-pull, because they fit
    practically all models back to forever, including the otherwise
    cost-prohibitive replacement for vintage 544, 122, and 1800 models from the
    '50s through the '70s.

    Anyway, two 12" ratchet extensions provide enough length and flex in the
    middle joint to get that 2nd nut from the rear. I haven't seen these seized
    with rust in Texas, but you may consider an extra long straw/tube to get a
    good shot of Liquid Wrench on the nut and bolt threads, and wait about a 1/2
    hour to let it do the muscle work for you. Cheaper than broken ratchets.
     
    Pat Quadlander, May 18, 2007
    #5
  6. framed

    framed Guest

    With all the ratchet extensions I bought (18") it was like I was
    coiling a spring every time I tried to apply pressure. Besides, I
    couldn't get at it straight on, thereby necessitating the use of a
    ratchet joint. I felt I was about to break something when I put all my
    weight on it, and I also felt like the nut was not even about to budge.
     
    framed, May 20, 2007
    #6
  7. If you are saying the bolt has a nut on the back side, concentrate on that.
    The bolt just won't loosen as long as the nut is tight.

    If there is a nut and it is accessible enough, try this. Clamp a pair of
    vise-grips on the nut as hard as you possibly can, then spray penetrant
    (preferably not WD-40; use PB Blaster or other genuine penetrant) on the end
    of the nut where the threads disappear into the nut, concentrating on the
    area opposite where the vise-grips are clamped down. Let it soak up to half
    an hour. If another pair of flats on the nut is accessible, clamp the
    vise-grips down hard on those and repeat the spray and soak. Doing this
    forces the threads together where the vise-grips are clamped down and opens
    up a tiny gap 90 degrees from there. The penetrant can reach deep inside the
    fitting and the force breaks any adhesions in the threads. I don't know how
    much it reduces the torque, but every time I've had to resort to this
    technique and been able to get access it has been successful in freeing the
    nut.

    If all fails, you may have to rent an impact driver and socket. Again, if
    there is a nut don't put the driver on the bolt head - it will likely break
    the bolt. But then it will come out....

    Mike
     
    Michael Pardee, May 20, 2007
    #7
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