R
Randy G.
Replaced both tailgate harness cables on Mom's '85 this past weekend.
I used the basic instructions here:
http://www.swedishbricks.net/TechTips/tailgateharness.html
and I bought both harness assemblies from FCP Groton.
A couple of tips to add to that:
- Before removing the tailgate I made a table using two sawhorses, a
piece of plywood, and a couple of blankets. I set this up right behind
the wagon, a few feet back, and just placed the tailgate, face down,
which made it easy to run the cables.
- Lay a towel over the glass to avoid damage if a tool is dropped.
- Running the replacement cables up through the pots can be
challenging. here is a helpful tip: Get some good, light-gauge string.
I used a length of plumb line (available at most hardware stores). Cut
off about ten feet. Tie one end securely to the end of the existing
cable in the tailgate. Pull the cable out through the top of the
tailgate, pulling the cord through with it. Now attach the new cable
to the cord and use it to pull the new cable through.
- If the string is pulled off or one end somehow gets lost, use an air
compressor and air gun to "push" the cord back through.
- As stated in the "swedishbricks" instructions, it is quite helpful
to have an assistant on hand to hold the gate in place while you
remove the bolts from inside the car, to help place the tailgate on
the table, to replace the gate on the car, and to hold the hinges in
place when you replace the bolts.
- Someone (Volvo?) apparently used some sealant in the holes in the
roof and tailgate under the gaskets. Whoever replaced the cables last
time used some unvulcanized rubber on one side (we refer to it as
monkey s---). I cleaned all that up (what a miserable mess!) and I
used plumber's putty. It doesn't harden so stays flexible and is
easily removed.
It all went fairly smoothly. The only difficulty I had was that I had
to change the connector end on one cable (I think it was the defogger)
because this car had a spade terminal and the replacement had a
bullet.
Everything worked after the job. I was worried because the cable had
been bad a LONG time if the condition of what little was left in the
hinges is any indication.
__ __
Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
\__/olvos
'90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate
"Shelby" & "Kate"
I used the basic instructions here:
http://www.swedishbricks.net/TechTips/tailgateharness.html
and I bought both harness assemblies from FCP Groton.
A couple of tips to add to that:
- Before removing the tailgate I made a table using two sawhorses, a
piece of plywood, and a couple of blankets. I set this up right behind
the wagon, a few feet back, and just placed the tailgate, face down,
which made it easy to run the cables.
- Lay a towel over the glass to avoid damage if a tool is dropped.
- Running the replacement cables up through the pots can be
challenging. here is a helpful tip: Get some good, light-gauge string.
I used a length of plumb line (available at most hardware stores). Cut
off about ten feet. Tie one end securely to the end of the existing
cable in the tailgate. Pull the cable out through the top of the
tailgate, pulling the cord through with it. Now attach the new cable
to the cord and use it to pull the new cable through.
- If the string is pulled off or one end somehow gets lost, use an air
compressor and air gun to "push" the cord back through.
- As stated in the "swedishbricks" instructions, it is quite helpful
to have an assistant on hand to hold the gate in place while you
remove the bolts from inside the car, to help place the tailgate on
the table, to replace the gate on the car, and to hold the hinges in
place when you replace the bolts.
- Someone (Volvo?) apparently used some sealant in the holes in the
roof and tailgate under the gaskets. Whoever replaced the cables last
time used some unvulcanized rubber on one side (we refer to it as
monkey s---). I cleaned all that up (what a miserable mess!) and I
used plumber's putty. It doesn't harden so stays flexible and is
easily removed.
It all went fairly smoothly. The only difficulty I had was that I had
to change the connector end on one cable (I think it was the defogger)
because this car had a spade terminal and the replacement had a
bullet.
Everything worked after the job. I was worried because the cable had
been bad a LONG time if the condition of what little was left in the
hinges is any indication.
__ __
Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
\__/olvos
'90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate
"Shelby" & "Kate"