740 GLE sometimes won't start ?

Discussion in 'Volvo 740' started by Mark Bratcher, Jul 10, 2006.

  1. I have a 1989 Volvo 740 GLE, B230F engine (I think ... standard 16-valve
    fuel-injected).

    Anyway... in the summer, it will occasionally not start. I don't recall
    if it has happened in the cooler months. If it has, it has been much
    more rare. The starter cranks fine, very strong. It just won't ignite.
    Not sure if it's due to lack of fuel being pumped, or lack of spark. If
    I wait long enough, from a couple of minutes to ten minutes or so, and
    try again, it will finally start and it's good for a few days or more
    before it happens again. It doesn't happen very frequently.

    Has anyone else experienced this behavior, and know what the cause is?
    My first thought is the fuel pump...

    Thanks.
    Mark
     
    Mark Bratcher, Jul 10, 2006
    #1
  2. Mark Bratcher

    zencraps Guest

  3. Mark Bratcher

    Jamie Guest

    Wow- a rash of 740's these days! Cool!

    I had my engine (B230F) pulled and the lower half rebuilt. When we
    reinstalled the engine, it would only crank with a shot of ether. Make
    sure your fuel pump relay is good. That's a biggie.

    There was something else....brain freeze. Sorry - more tomorrow.
     
    Jamie, Jul 10, 2006
    #3
  4. Happening in warm weather really focuses suspicion on the fuel pump relay.
    The solder connections between the relays and the circuit board inside the
    housing fatigue and crack, making the fuel pump operation intermittent. Warm
    weather makes it worse, for whatever reason.

    The pc board in the relay module can be resoldered or the relay can be
    replaced.

    Mike
     
    Michael Pardee, Jul 10, 2006
    #4
  5. Mark Bratcher

    sweetscent Guest

    Had the same or similar problem with 940 GLE, I changed the "Fuel pump
    relay" (sometimes called "fuel injector relay") and now it is somehow OK.
     
    sweetscent, Jul 10, 2006
    #5
  6. Thanks everyone for your input.

    I pulled the fuel injector relay and resoldered all the contact points.
    I'll see how it goes!
     
    Mark Bratcher, Jul 15, 2006
    #6
  7. Well... I resoldered all the soldering joints in the relay and it
    operated OK. But today it's 95 degrees and while I was stopped at a
    light the car just died and wouldn't start (same symptoms). I pushed the
    car to the side of the road and it finally started after maybe only a
    minute.

    Any other thoughts? Perhaps it just needs a new relay or something?
     
    Mark Bratcher, Jul 16, 2006
    #7
  8. Mark Bratcher

    Jamie Guest

    Jamie, Jul 16, 2006
    #8
  9. B230F is 8-valve not 16-valve. Try the Radio Suppression relay, usually
    attached at the side of one of the suspension strut towers. This feeds the
    power to the injectors via a block of four resistors. Check for power to the
    resistor block before checking relay. It has almost precisely the same
    symptoms as the Fuel Pump relay.

    All the best, Peter.

    700/900/90 Register Keeper,
    Volvo Owners Club (UK).
     
    Peter K L Milnes, Jul 17, 2006
    #9
  10. Thanks Peter and Jamie.

    This is strange indeed.

    The car used to very infrequently have trouble starting. Now that I've
    secured all the solder joints in the injector relay, the thing stalls
    while driving about every 5 to 10 miles. I have to coast to a stop
    somewhere and wait for it to want to start again, usually a couple of
    minutes.

    Tonight when I got home after driving, I when to pull the relay again
    and the injector relay, as well as the two small ones in front of it,
    were very hot. Not enough to burn your hand, but very hot nonetheless.
    More than I would expect. This relay looks pretty simple, and I don't
    see anything wrong with it on the inside. It's just a couple of coils
    etc and looks pretty clean.

    I can try a new one as well as a radio suppression relay. But I am
    puzzled by the connection in events between my fooling with the relay
    the first time and this sudden frequent stalling issue. And I'm no
    slouch when it comes to soldering. I don't get it. :-/

    I appreciate all the help. This is a great news group with very
    knowledgable people. :)

    Mark
     
    Mark Bratcher, Jul 18, 2006
    #10
  11. Thanks Peter and Jamie.

    This is strange indeed.

    The car used to very infrequently have trouble starting. Now that I've
    secured all the solder joints in the injector relay, the thing stalls
    while driving about every 5 to 10 miles. I have to coast to a stop
    somewhere and wait for it to want to start again, usually a couple of
    minutes.

    Tonight when I got home after driving, I when to pull the relay again
    and the injector relay, as well as the two small ones in front of it,
    were very hot. Not enough to burn your hand, but very hot nonetheless.
    More than I would expect. This relay looks pretty simple, and I don't
    see anything wrong with it on the inside. It's just a couple of coils
    etc and looks pretty clean.

    I can try a new one as well as a radio suppression relay. But I am
    puzzled by the connection in events between my fooling with the relay
    the first time and this sudden frequent stalling issue. And I'm no
    slouch when it comes to soldering. I don't get it. :-/

    I appreciate all the help. This is a great news group with very
    knowledgable people. :)

    Mark
     
    Mark Bratcher, Jul 18, 2006
    #11
  12. Mark Bratcher

    Jamie Guest

    Mark,
    thank you but I must defer to the veterans here. Honestly, I am a
    newbie here who only knows the little I know, thanks to the kind,
    knowledgable and intelligent Volvo owners who have been here long
    before me.

    I have probably learned 75% of anything I know by reading here and the
    other 25% by trial and LOTS of error.

    G'luck

    Jamie
     
    Jamie, Jul 18, 2006
    #12
  13. Mark Bratcher

    James Sweet Guest



    I've said this a million times before, but how's the engine wiring
    harness? If it's original and the car is pre-1989, it needs to be replaced.
     
    James Sweet, Jul 18, 2006
    #13
  14. Mark Bratcher

    User Guest

    Here's some food for thought. THere are two fuel pumps in the system.
    A;pw pressure pump in the tank that provides a solid column of fuel to
    the main pump. This is to prevent the main pump from cavitating during
    acceleration in any direction as well as ensuring that the main pump
    lubricating fuel supply is always present. Although the car will run
    with the prepump not working it can hesitate and stall during normal
    driving maneuvers. Ultimately the bearings wear in the main pump causing
    it to draw more current than normal, but not necessarily enough to blow
    the main fuel system fuse.

    Bob
     
    User, Jul 18, 2006
    #14
  15. Mark Bratcher

    Jamie Guest

    I e-mailed Dave Barton and bought a used harness from him not when my
    car died, but when I reached under the hood to grab a hose and my car
    started!

    The wires were so worn that I touched two wires and turned the car
    over. SCAREY!
     
    Jamie, Jul 18, 2006
    #15
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