740 pinion seal replacement

Discussion in 'Volvo 740' started by My_roller2000, Apr 12, 2005.

  1. Hi,
    I have a pinion seal that is allowing lubricant past it.
    I do my repairs in the driveway and am looking for pointers
    to taking this on myself. Are there any special tools or
    fixtures needed to do this? I have never had the axle apart on
    this or any other car and don't want to create problems. I have
    limited experience, I know the only way to get experience is to do
    the work. Model year is 1990 and mileage is around 175K to 180K

    What is a common mileage range for the pinion bushing to
    need to be replaced? If I am doing the seal I would not want to
    over look the bushing (or is it called a bearing?).

    Thanks for any suggestions.
     
    My_roller2000, Apr 12, 2005
    #1
  2. My_roller2000

    Mike F Guest

    The job consists of disconnecting the driveshaft, removing the big nut
    in the center of the flange, pulling the flange off, prying out the old
    seal, then the reverse to reassemble.

    The only problem is getting the flange off, sometimes. The big nut
    inside the flange can be quite tight, if you don't have access to an
    impact gun, you'll need to have a friend hold the wheels still with the
    brakes unless your parking brake is really good. Remember: If you're
    up on ramps, trying to turn that nut will move the car!
    The old seal will pry out quite easily.

    There's no need to do anything else - in fact if there's any problem
    with any of the bearings you'd know about it already - you'd be
    complaining about the noise. Only the auto trans has a problem with the
    rear bushing wearing that usually needs to be changed the same time as
    the seal.

    --
    Mike F.
    Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

    Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
    (But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)
     
    Mike F, Apr 13, 2005
    #2
  3. Thank you Mike!
    I am concerened about being able to come up with enough torque while under
    the
    car, just not a lot of room. I am glad you pointed out that the car will
    move if on ramps.
    I have 2 jack stands that I will place under the rear axel, then I will have
    to depend on
    a friend and the brakes to get the big nut off and back on.
    I have on my list of things to get is impact gun and a
    BIG compressor to run the thing, but that is in the future. Do you happen to
    recall
    the correct socket size for this large nut? I would like to attempt this in
    one try
    so knowing I have the correct size socket would be very helpful.

    I plan to buy an impact socket if it is a size I don't own, Would regular
    depth work?

    I have found an artice on a webpage that talked about the parts needing to
    marked
    and oriented to prevent excessive vibration (balanced at the factory in a
    particular
    orientation) and how to refill the case with a long hose.

    Would you mind commenting on the orientation thing and any other tips that
    you
    can think of would surely be helpful?

    Last thing I guess I need to know is the torque setting that I need to get
    this set back to?
    I think my torque wrench only goes up to 200 ft lbs.
    Really appreciate the help in keeping my Roller going.
     
    My_roller2000, Apr 15, 2005
    #3
  4. My_roller2000

    Mike F Guest


    http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/Driveline.htm
    They don't talk about the socket you need, and it's been quite a while
    since I've done this, but as I remember a normal depth socket is all you
    need, and as for size, I think 24mm, but it may have been 22 or 27.

    When in doubt, mark everything with scratches so you can put it back
    together exactly as it comes apart.

    --
    Mike F.
    Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

    Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
    (But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)
     
    Mike F, Apr 18, 2005
    #4
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