'83 Diesel - No Start

  • Thread starter Thread starter brick
  • Start date Start date
B

brick

I have an 83 240 diesel (Audi 5 cyl) that won't start.

It was running fine on the drive to work, while idling in front of the
office, it suddenly started making a noise similar to fluid under pressure
along with the diesel clatter. The exhaust was very rick (black).

Car sat for 9 hours, and now will not start.

any thoughts on what may make the fuel system suddenly go rich, while
originally running normally?

ambient temperature about -15C
 
brick said:
I have an 83 240 diesel (Audi 5 cyl) that won't start.
Click to expand...

It's a 6 cyl...
It was running fine on the drive to work, while idling in front of the
office, it suddenly started making a noise similar to fluid under pressure
along with the diesel clatter. The exhaust was very rick (black).

Car sat for 9 hours, and now will not start.

any thoughts on what may make the fuel system suddenly go rich, while
originally running normally?

ambient temperature about -15C
Click to expand...

How's the timing belt? If it loses a tooth and slips slightly it could do
this.
 
Didn't know it had a timing belt, I thought it was a chain.

I'll have a look.
 
brick said:
Didn't know it had a timing belt, I thought it was a chain.

I'll have a look.
Click to expand...

It has a belt on the front to drive the camshaft and then one in the back to
drive the injection pump. Failure of the front belt will destroy the engine
so it's a good idea to have it changed on or before schedule. Timing on
these is very critical, and affected by the belt tension. A few special
tools are required to replace the belt.
 
Thanks, James. It is a belt, and is ok.

Still no start, no fuel at the injector. We cracked the injector nut and
cranked the engine, and no fuel was present.

How do you check for the fuel pump operation, apart from checking fuses?
There appears to be two pumps, at least there are two fuses, one 8 amp and
one 16 amp. I can't hear a pump operating when the key is switched on.
 
brick said:
Thanks, James. It is a belt, and is ok.

Still no start, no fuel at the injector. We cracked the injector nut and
cranked the engine, and no fuel was present.

How do you check for the fuel pump operation, apart from checking fuses?
There appears to be two pumps, at least there are two fuses, one 8 amp and
one 16 amp. I can't hear a pump operating when the key is switched on.
Click to expand...

As far as I know the only fuel pump in those Diesels is the engine driven
injection pump. There may be a small pre-pump in the tank but I've never
messed with that end. When the injection pump on the motor fails it's a very
expensive repair ($800-$1200 for the part alone IIRC) unless you can find a
good used one and you need a few special tools to time the new one. No
reason not to replace the timing and injection pump belts at the same time.
 
Brick are you sure that the pump belt is alright? If that breaks no damage
to engine but no fuel gets pumped to the injectors. Have you changed the
fuel filter, it may be full of water or crud and should be drained regularly
by the tap on the bottom. There should be NO electric fuel pumps in the
system. You should also check that the fuel cut-off solenoid is getting a
supply when the ignition is on (wire goes to small dome-like object on top
front body of pump).

Cheers, Peter.
 
Peter K L Milnes said:
Brick are you sure that the pump belt is alright? If that breaks no damage
to engine but no fuel gets pumped to the injectors. Have you changed the
fuel filter, it may be full of water or crud and should be drained regularly
by the tap on the bottom. There should be NO electric fuel pumps in the
system. You should also check that the fuel cut-off solenoid is getting a
supply when the ignition is on (wire goes to small dome-like object on top
front body of pump).
Click to expand...


And if that breaks then the timing belt is not far behind, and that one
*will* wreck the motor.
 
Thanks a lot guys.

Both belts look okay, (I am aware of the dreaded timing belt damage to
interference fit engines). There is power to the fuel shut off solenoid
when the key is in RUN position. This is critical, thanks Peter.

It is minus 40C these days, with threats of warming. We'll tow the car to
our local Volvo enthusiast and have him look at it.

Be happy to share the results here, and really appreciate your input.
 
brick said:
Thanks a lot guys.

Both belts look okay, (I am aware of the dreaded timing belt damage to
interference fit engines). There is power to the fuel shut off solenoid
when the key is in RUN position. This is critical, thanks Peter.

It is minus 40C these days, with threats of warming. We'll tow the car to
our local Volvo enthusiast and have him look at it.

Be happy to share the results here, and really appreciate your input.
Click to expand...


If it's -40, it's possible that the no-start is simply due to low
compression from engine wear.
 
That only leaves either the glow-plug relay or the wiring to the glow-plugs
(including relay contacts which should pass around 36 - 54 Amperes of
current (36A equals four plugs, 54A equals six plugs working fine). If the
glow-plug warning light works as it should then it is likely to be the relay
contacts or the 80A fuse (flat metal strip type on underside of relay by
four-pin connector).

Cheers, Peter.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top