85 240 DL Battery going dead

Discussion in 'Volvo 240' started by disallow, May 17, 2005.

  1. disallow

    disallow Guest

    Hi there,

    Recent rebuild on this car, 300000kms. Auto
    Trannie, B230F motor. Sedan. 3 spd trannie.

    The battery goes dead after about 10 hours of not running. Put my
    multimeter on it, when running
    the voltage is 14 volts, which rules out the
    alternator. When not running, I can observe the
    voltage dropping from 12.75 to about 12.30 or so.

    Amperage drawn when the car is not running is
    0.8 to 0.87 Amps, which shouldn't be enough to drain the battery in 10
    hours.

    The battery is brand new, and I realize it could
    be a dud. However, are there any other things
    I should be checking?

    Thanks
    t
     
    disallow, May 17, 2005
    #1
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  2. 0.8 Amps is a lot of amps. I'd expect something less than 0.05 amp.

    Try pulling the fuses until you find the culprit. In my '89 240 it was one
    of the door-is-open switches.
     
    Robert Lutwak, May 17, 2005
    #2
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  3. disallow

    doc Guest

    I concur with Robert L. It looks to me you have what is known as
    parasitic battery drain. Something is staying on after the ignition is
    off and the car locked up for the night.

    I've often seen this happen and many times it was the glove box light
    staying on as the switch was bad.

    As Rob suggested, start pulling fuses one at a time for ten hours
    until you find the culprit.

    Good Luck,

    Doc
     
    doc, May 18, 2005
    #3
  4. disallow

    disallow Guest

    After taking all of your advice, we found nuthin!

    BUT, there is this blade fuse in line with a wire
    coming directly off of the positive terminal of
    the battery. Apparently, it feeds the fuel pump
    relay? Its a 30 Amp fuse.

    Anyways, when I pulled that fuse, the draw on the
    battery went from 0.87amps to 0.01amps. I'm
    thinking my problem is there.

    Any ideas on how to fix this? Once the power goes
    to the relay, where does it go from there?

    t
     
    disallow, May 18, 2005
    #4
  5. disallow

    Boris Mohar Guest


    It could be a rotting insulation in the wiring harness in the engine bay. I
    had the same problem and I knew that the harness was rotting but didn't
    replace it in time. One fine Sunday morning the car caught fire just sitting
    there stone cold. Do check.



    Regards,

    Boris Mohar

    Got Knock? - see:
    Viatrack Printed Circuit Designs (among other things) http://www.viatrack.ca
     
    Boris Mohar, May 18, 2005
    #5
  6. disallow

    Mike F Guest

    I just happen to have a wire diagram book for '87 handy. That fuse only
    feeds the fuel pump relay. With the key off, check for power at the
    following: The red-yellow wire at the injectors and the orange wire on
    pin 5 at the air mass meter. If either have power then the fuel pump
    relay is stuck in the on position and you need a new one.

    Also, assuming the battery is fully charged, then this draw shouldn't
    kill it in 10 hours. However, car batteries aren't designed for this
    kind of discharge/recharge and can be quickly damaged when subjected to
    it.

    --
    Mike F.
    Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

    Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
    (But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)
     
    Mike F, May 18, 2005
    #6
  7. disallow

    disallow Guest

    Thanks Mike! That is great info!

    Part of todays exercise included charging the
    battery and bringing it in to get it load tested. The alternator has been
    ruled out already
    (14 - 14.4 volts when the engine is running)

    So hopefully we can rule out the battery, but I
    also want to deal with this parasitic draw. Until it
    is figured out, I will just pull that 30Amp
    fuse overnight, so that it can't kill the
    battery.

    Thanks, and any other tips would be greatly
    appreciated!

    Terry
     
    disallow, May 18, 2005
    #7
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