'87 740 gle compressor replacement cost?

  • Thread starter Thread starter golgo13
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golgo13

thanks for all those who replied to my initial question about a missing
v-belt for the compressor.

so when i went to check the compressor to see if it turned by hand, and
lo and behold, it didn't. from the replies to my earlier post, i'm
guessing that the bearing seazed up and threw the belt.

now, for a couple more question... how easy is it to replace the unit
myself? i know i would have to change the dryer (with a dessicant in it)
when i replace the compressor. i can find reconditioned compressors for
about $280. keep in mind that the extent of my engine working has been
changing plugs, oil/filter, and cap/rotor/wires. i've changed rear
shocks before on my jetta, but with a help from my friend.

second question. if i decide that the job requires too much skills that
i don't have, i've gotten a quote to get the whole job done for $576
(all inclusive of tax, new refridgerant, dessicant, and labor). i think
i get 1 year warranty with that. is that a reasonable quote?

thanks in advance,
jun
 
golgo13 said:
thanks for all those who replied to my initial question about a missing
v-belt for the compressor.

so when i went to check the compressor to see if it turned by hand, and lo
and behold, it didn't. from the replies to my earlier post, i'm guessing
that the bearing seazed up and threw the belt.

now, for a couple more question... how easy is it to replace the unit
myself? i know i would have to change the dryer (with a dessicant in it)
when i replace the compressor. i can find reconditioned compressors for
about $280. keep in mind that the extent of my engine working has been
changing plugs, oil/filter, and cap/rotor/wires. i've changed rear shocks
before on my jetta, but with a help from my friend.

second question. if i decide that the job requires too much skills that i
don't have, i've gotten a quote to get the whole job done for $576 (all
inclusive of tax, new refridgerant, dessicant, and labor). i think i get 1
year warranty with that. is that a reasonable quote?

thanks in advance,
jun
Click to expand...
You can take a chance and replace just the clutch. I paid $150 for a clutch
assembly (at a Checker Auto) and replaced it myself - no messing with the
refrigerant. The bearing is part of the clutch assembly. But be advised, the
compressor lasted only one year after replacing the clutch. I paid the
dealer $1100 a decade ago to convert the system to R-134a, but the cooling
is not nearly as good as it used to be.

Mike
 
Michael said:
You can take a chance and replace just the clutch. I paid $150 for a clutch
assembly (at a Checker Auto) and replaced it myself - no messing with the
refrigerant. The bearing is part of the clutch assembly. But be advised, the
compressor lasted only one year after replacing the clutch. I paid the
dealer $1100 a decade ago to convert the system to R-134a, but the cooling
is not nearly as good as it used to be.

Mike
Click to expand...


If it were just the clutch, it would still rotate by hand, the
compressor itself is not difficult to turn. What happens though is the
clutch siezes and then causes the compressor to run, if the system is
dry then it runs without lube and also siezes up which is what has
apparently happened here.

If you can do the work yourself, you should be able to get a used
compressor for around $30 at a U-pull yard, it's a bit of a crapshoot
but if you live in a climate like mine, the AC compressors normally have
relatively few hours on them. I wouldn't bother with a used one in a
place like Texas or Florida.

The quote you got sounds pretty reasonable for the whole works.
 
James Sweet said:
If it were just the clutch, it would still rotate by hand, the compressor
itself is not difficult to turn. What happens though is the clutch siezes
and then causes the compressor to run, if the system is dry then it runs
without lube and also siezes up which is what has apparently happened
here.
Click to expand...

It's easy enough to check while the belt is off. If the clapper can be
rotated by hand (with normal compressor drag) while the pulley can't, it's
the bearing in the clutch. If the clapper can't be moved at all, the
compressor is seized. I've had a couple bearings seize, but never had a
clutch seize clapper-to-pulley.

Mike
 
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