'90 740 Turbo questions

  • Thread starter Thread starter Zaphod
  • Start date Start date
Z

Zaphod

Last Summer my wife and I picked up this car to be our second vehicle.
It drives like a dream, but there have been some maintenance issues to
deal with over time.

First of all, the heater core went. I managed to get that changed out on
my own with some online help from http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/
HeaterCoreReplacement.htm. Of course, I couldn't get *all* of the screws
back in place, but everything seems to work well enough now.

Secondly, the engine service light. I've looked on the net for
information on this one and they show pictures that don't seem to match
my car. I read a post in this group that indicated that the reset is
under a rubber seal next to the speedometer - and indeed there it is. So
what do I do to reset it?

Thirdly, the parking brake cable wasn't up to my son reefing on it. I
bought a replacement and started to replace it but the bolts holding the
rear driver side caliper in place are pretty stuck - just put some wd40
or something in there to free it up or is there a better solution (no pun
intended, but there it is).

That's it for now, and TIA if you have any suggestions.

Mike
 
Secondly, the engine service light. I've looked on the net for
information on this one and they show pictures that don't seem to match
my car. I read a post in this group that indicated that the reset is
under a rubber seal next to the speedometer - and indeed there it is. So
what do I do to reset it?
Click to expand...

IIRC, you pop out the rubber plug, and push the button in and hold it
for several seconds with the ignition on and the light should go out.
Thirdly, the parking brake cable wasn't up to my son reefing on it. I
bought a replacement and started to replace it but the bolts holding the
rear driver side caliper in place are pretty stuck - just put some wd40
or something in there to free it up or is there a better solution (no pun
intended, but there it is).
Click to expand...


WD40 is pretty worthless, you can get much better penetrating oils. I
like P'Blaster, seems to work well. I also frequently abuse wrenches by
slipping a length of iron pipe over the handle to get more leverage, or
you can do it right and pick up a long breaker bar. Make sure you're
turning the bolt in the correct direction too :)
 
IIRC, you pop out the rubber plug, and push the button in and hold it
for several seconds with the ignition on and the light should go out.
Click to expand...

Thanks. Just what I'm looking for. Ignition on, several seconds until
the light goes out.
WD40 is pretty worthless, you can get much better penetrating oils. I
like P'Blaster, seems to work well. I also frequently abuse wrenches by
slipping a length of iron pipe over the handle to get more leverage, or
you can do it right and pick up a long breaker bar. Make sure you're
turning the bolt in the correct direction too :)
Click to expand...

I've got a breaker bar but I don't think it will fit in the gap available
- can't even fit a socket wrench in there, just regular flat wrenches -
so I'll look around for a piece of pipe and see if I can pick up some of
this P'Blaster stuff in town.
 
Last Summer my wife and I picked up this car to be our second vehicle.
It drives like a dream, but there have been some maintenance issues to
deal with over time.

First of all, the heater core went. I managed to get that changed out on
my own with some online help from http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/
HeaterCoreReplacement.htm. Of course, I couldn't get *all* of the screws
back in place, but everything seems to work well enough now.

Secondly, the engine service light. I've looked on the net for
information on this one and they show pictures that don't seem to match
my car. I read a post in this group that indicated that the reset is
under a rubber seal next to the speedometer - and indeed there it is. So
what do I do to reset it?

Thirdly, the parking brake cable wasn't up to my son reefing on it. I
bought a replacement and started to replace it but the bolts holding the
rear driver side caliper in place are pretty stuck - just put some wd40
or something in there to free it up or is there a better solution (no pun
intended, but there it is).

That's it for now, and TIA if you have any suggestions.

Mike
Click to expand...
Remove the rubber plug & just push in the button
 
Zaphod said:
Secondly, the engine service light. I've looked on the net for
information on this one and they show pictures that don't seem to match
my car. I read a post in this group that indicated that the reset is
under a rubber seal next to the speedometer - and indeed there it is. So
what do I do to reset it?
Click to expand...

I also tried the "hold for a few seconds" method as suggested by James Sweet.
Nope... that only works on my old Ford Thunderbird. As I learned a few weeks
ago with *my* new-to-me 1990 740GL, the "Service" light interval is run by gears
inside the cluster, just like the trip odometer. To reset (asssuming yours is like mine,
and they haven't changed things just to make me look bad), you can't just push
it in (like I did) a couple of millimeters, expecting it to be like an electrical switch.
You have to push it that far just to contact the gears inside, then a much harder
push to spin the gears back to "zero". Considering you can't see the gears, it's
difficult to know how hard and how far to push. Once my gears decided to
cooperate, they let go so suddenly that I thought I had punched a hole through
the back of my instrument cluster, but luckily everything still works.
 
Zaphod said:
Thanks. Just what I'm looking for. Ignition on, several seconds until
the light goes out.


I've got a breaker bar but I don't think it will fit in the gap available
- can't even fit a socket wrench in there, just regular flat wrenches -
so I'll look around for a piece of pipe and see if I can pick up some of
this P'Blaster stuff in town.
Click to expand...



You can also hook a couple of wrenches together, just hook the box end
of one on the open end of the other and get more leverage that way. Are
you sure you're taking out the right bolts? It's been a while, but I
don't recall there being any that hard to access on the brakes.
 
MasterBlaster said:
I also tried the "hold for a few seconds" method as suggested by James Sweet.
Nope... that only works on my old Ford Thunderbird. As I learned a few weeks
ago with *my* new-to-me 1990 740GL, the "Service" light interval is run by gears
inside the cluster, just like the trip odometer. To reset (asssuming yours is like mine,
and they haven't changed things just to make me look bad), you can't just push
it in (like I did) a couple of millimeters, expecting it to be like an electrical switch.
You have to push it that far just to contact the gears inside, then a much harder
push to spin the gears back to "zero". Considering you can't see the gears, it's
difficult to know how hard and how far to push. Once my gears decided to
cooperate, they let go so suddenly that I thought I had punched a hole through
the back of my instrument cluster, but luckily everything still works.
Click to expand...
A couple of years ago I had changed the oil myself and couldn't figure
out how to reset the "Service Engine" light. Somewhere on the web (I
hadn't found this list yet) I saw that you just pushed the button below
the speedometer.

I did just that and it worked, EXCEPT that I hadn't realized that it was
not, in fact, a button, but a plug that I was supposed to have removed.

As you can imagine, I still have a rubber plug stuck inside the
instrument glass, but it does still work. Someday I'll take the cover
off and get it out,but it doesn't seem to bother anything.

Best to all,

Perk (:>)
 
Perk said:
A couple of years ago I had changed the oil myself and couldn't figure
out how to reset the "Service Engine" light. Somewhere on the web (I
hadn't found this list yet) I saw that you just pushed the button below
the speedometer.

I did just that and it worked, EXCEPT that I hadn't realized that it was
not, in fact, a button, but a plug that I was supposed to have removed.

As you can imagine, I still have a rubber plug stuck inside the
instrument glass, but it does still work. Someday I'll take the cover
off and get it out,but it doesn't seem to bother anything.

Best to all,

Perk (:>)
Click to expand...


It's actually pretty easy to remove the cluster and take it apart. Just
be careful not to get fingerprints on the gauge faces or inside of the
window, it looks as bad as having something in there.
 
I also tried the "hold for a few seconds" method as suggested by James
Sweet. Nope... that only works on my old Ford Thunderbird. As I learned
a few weeks ago with *my* new-to-me 1990 740GL, the "Service" light
interval is run by gears inside the cluster, just like the trip
odometer. To reset (asssuming yours is like mine, and they haven't
changed things just to make me look bad), you can't just push it in
(like I did) a couple of millimeters, expecting it to be like an
electrical switch. You have to push it that far just to contact the
gears inside, then a much harder push to spin the gears back to "zero".
Considering you can't see the gears, it's difficult to know how hard and
how far to push. Once my gears decided to cooperate, they let go so
suddenly that I thought I had punched a hole through the back of my
instrument cluster, but luckily everything still works.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I figured that out after some experimentation. Had a couple
screws hanging around and started with one that was too short and it
didn't reset no matter how long I held it in so I tried a longer one and
it reset pretty much immediately.
 
You can also hook a couple of wrenches together, just hook the box end
of one on the open end of the other and get more leverage that way. Are
you sure you're taking out the right bolts? It's been a while, but I
don't recall there being any that hard to access on the brakes.
Click to expand...

It's not super tight - just too tight to easily get a socket set or
breaker bar on it. Could probably fit with a low profile socket, but I
usually only buy those as singles for individual jobs. I think the main
problem is the bolts (two of them) are somewhat corroded and stuck to
their threads as a result.
 
Zaphod said:
It's not super tight - just too tight to easily get a socket set or
breaker bar on it. Could probably fit with a low profile socket, but I
usually only buy those as singles for individual jobs. I think the main
problem is the bolts (two of them) are somewhat corroded and stuck to
their threads as a result.
Click to expand...


They have threadlocker on them as well, so you need to use quite a bit
of force. When you reinstall, a dab of loc-tite or similar product is a
good idea, use the removable stuff, not the red permanent locker.
 
Did you know the fellow who invented WD 40 tried 39 times before he came up
with WD40 thats why is is named such .?Tap it heat it wd40 tap more you will
get it loose .
 
Jon said:
Did you know the fellow who invented WD 40 tried 39 times before he came up
with WD40 thats why is is named such .?Tap it heat it wd40 tap more you will
get it loose .
Click to expand...


That's one of many myths surrounding the name of the stuff.

At any rate, WD40 is crap, there's much better stuff out there.
 
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