94 860 odometer kaput... Fixable?

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by Doug Warner, Jun 25, 2004.

  1. Doug Warner

    Doug Warner Guest

    The good Tire shop gave me a free rebalance because I had driven
    only 150 miles in the last 3 months.

    The bad My odometer quit working 150 miles after I had the
    wheels balanced the first time..

    Went to run the Function Test (A7, press button 3 times), but I found
    the wire already plugged into A7. I must have forgotten to unplug it
    when I changed the oil. I figured that this might be the cause and
    unplugged it.

    Next day, odo still NG. Tonight: Ran the Function Test.. All the
    needles point where they're supposed to, but the odometer doesn't even
    twitch. (Speedometer works, so it's getting the the speed input
    signal.

    Leaving A7 plugged in shouldn't have done it, since it just goes
    directly to an IO pin on the combined instrument microprocessor.

    I'm hoping it's just a cracked solder joint. Has anyone
    disassembled the combined instrument enough to see how the odometer
    motor / solenoid is wired up? Is it driven directly by the main
    board, or by electronics within the speedo assembly itself?

    Now to find out how to remove the thing from the dash.


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    Doug Warner, Jun 25, 2004
    #1
  2. Doug Warner

    Mike F Guest

    There's a gear that cracks, so it doesn't grip the shaft that the
    odometer digits are on tightly enough to turn it. I had this problem on
    my '76 240, and "damaged" the shaft with vice-grips to enable the gear
    to grip the shaft. Or head on over to http://www.odometergears.com/ and
    buy yourself a new one.

    --
    Mike F.
    Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

    NOTE: new address!!
    Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
    (But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)
     
    Mike F, Jun 25, 2004
    #2
  3. Doug Warner

    Doug Warner Guest

    I just took it apart with the help of:
    http://seawinds.ws/volvo/instrument_cluster.htm
    (Very difficult to remove the cluster out the way it's shown here.
    It looks like I'll have to remove the passenger airbag moduleto free
    the right end of the dash cover so I can reinstall the cluster without
    forcing it.

    Mine has a missing tooth:
    http://webpages.charter.net/dwarner2/ODOgear.jpg
    This is the one that's turned by the gear on the motor shaft. I'm
    guessing it's the 15 tooth one odometergears.com is selling for
    $25.00, since I can't see any other 15 tooth gears in the unit.
    http://www.odometergears.com/subpages/volvo.html


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    Doug Warner, Jun 28, 2004
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  4. Doug Warner

    James Sweet Guest

    His car is a '94 though, the speedo's (and odometers) went electronic in '86
    on the 240's and earlier than that on other models.
     
    James Sweet, Jun 28, 2004
    #4
  5. Doug Warner

    Mike F Guest

    Yes, but as you can see from his second reply, electronic 850 speedos
    have problems with the gears, just as 240s with mechanical speedos do.

    --
    Mike F.
    Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

    NOTE: new address!!
    Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
    (But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)
     
    Mike F, Jun 28, 2004
    #5
  6. Doug Warner

    Doug Warner Guest

    Yep.. And, if anyone wants to see some photos:

    First, after a big struggle getting the cluster out while bending the
    right half of the dash up, I removed the glovebox, a few more screws,
    the right speaker, and the airbag calbe and bolts. then lifted the
    whole dash out. A 2.2 ohm resistor in the airbag connector keeps the
    controller from posting an ignitor fault:
    http://webpages.charter.net/dwarner2/Topless.jpg

    Back of the cluster. To get the front window section off, remove the
    screws indicated, as well as the nut around the boost gauge stem.
    http://webpages.charter.net/dwarner2/PanelBack.jpg

    Front view. The dial plate is clear acrylic, about 1/4" thick, Just
    pry it offm working around the edge. It unplugs from the board in
    back
    http://webpages.charter.net/dwarner2/PanelFront.jpg

    Open view: The pins on the instrument actuators plug into the board.
    Reassembly involves pusing the panel back on, taking care to avoid
    fingerprints on the flat black surface.
    http://webpages.charter.net/dwarner2/PanelSplit.jpg

    The odometer is, located by a couple of pins in holes. A 2-wire
    connector links it's motor to the board. Just lift out and unplug.

    I removed the motor from the odometer's right side and found this:
    http://webpages.charter.net/dwarner2/ODOgear.jpg

    The 15-tooth one from Odometergears.com is the replacement. On order.

    And, while I'm posting photos.. if you like macadamia nuts, don't buy
    this:
    http://webpages.charter.net/dwarner2/NUTS!.jpg
    (It's what I found in the can.)


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    Doug Warner, Jun 29, 2004
    #6
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