940 rear foglights

  • Thread starter Thread starter Dave Newson
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Dave Newson

I'm having a bit of a run-in with the rear foglights on a recently acquired
940 SE Turbo estate (UK) - fronts work fine. There is power to the switch,
both the switch internal lights work and so does the dashboard rear fog
warning lamp. There is no power to the relay actuating coil when the switch
is operated, but there is power from the busbar (30) to the power feed
terminal on the relay.
When the relay is fed power via a wire loop (while in situ) it operates,
switching continuity OK, but the lights still don't come on. Both rear bulbs
are fine and there are no obvious signs of damage to the harness. No other
electrical problems apart from the reversing lights not working (they flash
on sometimes when engaging reverse - diagnosed as the switch).
I can't see any connectors / terminal blocks under the dash although there
must be something somewhere as the wiring colours from the switch and to the
relay are different. The wiring diagram in Haynes is not the one for this
model.
With good old British downland fog rapidly approaching, any ideas anyone?

Thanks, Dave.
 
For my 940 '92 I have a wiring diagram (Volvo). According to it, there
is basically nothing special between the instrument light and bulb in
rear. No relay. Just a cable indicated GR (for grey).

The cable passes a big connector somewhere near the drivers's right
knee. In that connector block the rear fog light is cable number 15.
Grey coming in, gray going out. I assume the wiring is along the right
hand side of the car in Britain. The picure shows the stuff along the
left side, but that's probably only for strange insignificant countries
where people have cars with th steering wheel on the left :-)

If you have a tow hith installed, I suggest you check the cabling to to
it, perhaps the rear fog light was lead to the trailer and got lost?




--
Gunnar

240 Turbo Wagon '84 200 K Miles
940 Wagon '92 150 K Miles
on Swedish roads
 
The wiring runs along the left-hand side of the car irrespective of which side
the steering wheel is on. As the foglights are not routed through the bulb
malfunction device the wire can be scotchlocked directly onto the foglight wire
behind the lamp housing. If using a 12N connector to the trailer you should use
the version which has a cut-out incorporated for the fog light. This routes the
car's rear foglights via a switch integral to the connector. The result being
that when the trailer is plugged in the cars rear foglights will not come on but
the trailer's rear fog light will. It is to save your vision to the rear being
blocked by glare from the car's lights.

Cheers, Peter.

: For my 940 '92 I have a wiring diagram (Volvo). According to it, there
: is basically nothing special between the instrument light and bulb in
: rear. No relay. Just a cable indicated GR (for grey).
:
: The cable passes a big connector somewhere near the drivers's right
: knee. In that connector block the rear fog light is cable number 15.
: Grey coming in, gray going out. I assume the wiring is along the right
: hand side of the car in Britain. The picure shows the stuff along the
: left side, but that's probably only for strange insignificant countries
: where people have cars with th steering wheel on the left :-)
:
: If you have a tow hith installed, I suggest you check the cabling to to
: it, perhaps the rear fog light was lead to the trailer and got lost?
:
:
:
:
: --
: Gunnar
:
: 240 Turbo Wagon '84 200 K Miles
: 940 Wagon '92 150 K Miles
: on Swedish roads
:
 
Because there's more to the internet than hits alone, Peter Milnes
wrote:
...scotchlocked...
Click to expand...

Eeewwwwwww. These pesky things have to be the worst way of splicing
wires together ever invented. I have, in the past, spent many
frustrating hours trying to figure out why some newly installed
electrical component won't work, only to find it was due to these
bleeding 'orrible things. They are pathetically unreliable.

Screw terminals ('chock blocks') if you must, or better still, invest
in a crimper, or ideally, for a permanent connection, a soldering iron
and some heatshrink sleaving.


--

Stewart Hargrave

I run on beans - laser beans


For email, replace 'SpamOnlyToHere' with my name
 
how does the heatshrink sleavingwork?
can i get some @ a radio shack?
 
Because there's more to the internet than hits alone, ~^ beancounter
~^ said:
how does the heatshrink sleavingwork?
Click to expand...

Err.. yer heat it up and it shrinks. A match a few inches underneath,
a hair drier - that sort of thing. Then shrinks to form a nice tight
fitting insulating sleave.
can i get some @ a radio shack?
Click to expand...

Probably. I would think any elecrical accessory store could supply it.
Comes in a variety of diameters.

Example here:

http://www.maplin.co.uk/products/module.asp?CartID=031120182404853&moduleno=301&Products=13


--

Stewart Hargrave

I run on beans - laser beans


For email, replace 'SpamOnlyToHere' with my name
 
~^ beancounter ~^ said:
how does the heatshrink sleavingwork?
can i get some @ a radio shack?
Click to expand...


It's just tubing that shrinks when you heat it, a heat gun is ideal but a
lighter will do the trick if you're careful. Radio Shack does sell it last I
checked, but a hardware or hobby store is a better place to get it.
 
Just use a high powered hair dryer (at least 1 kiloWatt rating).

Cheers, Peter.

: how does the heatshrink sleavingwork?
: can i get some @ a radio shack?
:
:
: > or better still, invest in a crimper, or ideally,
: > for a permanent connection, a soldering iron and
: > some heatshrink sleaving.
 
Because there's more to the internet than hits alone, ~^ beancounter
~^ said:
how does the heatshrink sleavingwork?
Click to expand...

(Re-reads own post) I didn't mean to imply that heatshrink sleaving is
a way of joining wires togehter; it just makes a neat job of a
soldered connection.


--

Stewart Hargrave

I run on beans - laser beans


For email, replace 'SpamOnlyToHere' with my name
 
Stewart said:
Because there's more to the internet than hits alone, ~^ beancounter


(Re-reads own post) I didn't mean to imply that heatshrink sleaving is
a way of joining wires togehter; it just makes a neat job of a
soldered connection.

--

Stewart Hargrave

I run on beans - laser beans

For email, replace 'SpamOnlyToHere' with my name
Click to expand...

When I make a wire repair, I slide a piece of heat shrink over the
disconnected wires. Then I twist them together, with the overlap 1 cm
at least, usually closer to 2 cm. Then solder, one piece of electrical
tape to fill in the gap where there is no insulation, then another piece
for a thin layer across the repair and beyond both ends. Then slide the
heat shrink over the whole thing. The heat shrink makes it look neat
and stops the tape from unwrapping as time dries out the glue. I
learned early on the folly of half-a**ed wiring repairs. I keep
multiple sizes (and colours!) "in stock" in my tool box.
 
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