960 new shocks, whatelse to get?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Rob Guenther
  • Start date Start date
R

Rob Guenther

Hi

Our 1993 960 is in the shop for a transmission gear selector switch and
we've decided to have some extra work done to it.

The suspension has been wallowy and choppy for a while now, it was never
this bad when I learned to drive on it, and my dad had the car since new and
he said it was great at cornering and a smooth ride for most of its life
(car has 160K Kms and was built November 1992, purchased new August 1993) -
we do tow with it and use it for hauling heavy loads now and then.... It's a
Volvo, it's doing what Volvo's were built to do basically.

But it has come time to make it ride like one again... They are going to
replace the shocks all around (Mac Phearson struts at front and the Nivomats
at the rear).... should we be doing springs? (car doesn't sag) Should the
anti roll bars be looked at? Bushings? etc etc... they are going over the
car but if I can point at a certain item and say definately change that out
it would be helpful.

I recommended only the shocks because I had new shocks put in on my
Volkswagen Golf (99.5 with 100K Kms at the time) and it made a world of
difference, especially on the rather harsh roads around Southern Ontario...
I didn't do springs and I didn't change any bushing etc, but it is a much
newer car... and at over $1000 that was enough money, tho the Volvo is going
to be $1500 (Nivomats are pricey, my dad only buys genuine Volvo parts - I
mean they have a great service life and we know what to expect, so why not
right?)
 
Rob said:
Hi

Our 1993 960 is in the shop for a transmission gear selector switch and
we've decided to have some extra work done to it.

The suspension has been wallowy and choppy for a while now, it was never
this bad when I learned to drive on it, and my dad had the car since new and
he said it was great at cornering and a smooth ride for most of its life
(car has 160K Kms and was built November 1992, purchased new August 1993) -
we do tow with it and use it for hauling heavy loads now and then.... It's a
Volvo, it's doing what Volvo's were built to do basically.

But it has come time to make it ride like one again... They are going to
replace the shocks all around (Mac Phearson struts at front and the Nivomats
at the rear).... should we be doing springs? (car doesn't sag) Should the
anti roll bars be looked at? Bushings? etc etc... they are going over the
car but if I can point at a certain item and say definately change that out
it would be helpful.

I recommended only the shocks because I had new shocks put in on my
Volkswagen Golf (99.5 with 100K Kms at the time) and it made a world of
difference, especially on the rather harsh roads around Southern Ontario...
I didn't do springs and I didn't change any bushing etc, but it is a much
newer car... and at over $1000 that was enough money, tho the Volvo is going
to be $1500 (Nivomats are pricey, my dad only buys genuine Volvo parts - I
mean they have a great service life and we know what to expect, so why not
right?)
Click to expand...

Nivomats usually don't wear out in that fashion. If the car is sitting
level, then both the springs and the levelling function of the Nivomats
are OK. I'd start by just changing the front shocks and any suspension
bushings, front or rear, that have worn out or are cracked.

By the way, Nivomats are made for Volvo by Boge, Nivomats bought in a
Boge box from an aftermarket source will be the exact same part as you
get from the Volvo dealer, except the word "Volvo" won't be engraved on
them. And as a benefit, on the front suspension, the nut that holds the
insert into the strut housing will almost certainly be seized and will
be destroyed when removed. The aftermarket replacements come with that
nut in the box, the Volvo originals don't - and Volvo will charge $30
each! for them.

--
Mike F.
Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
(But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)
 
It's being done at a dealership (Mc Millan and Saunders in Mississauga,
they've gave us only excellent service for over 20 years, so we're sticking
with them even tho our car is old... I checked out a Volvo shop in Guelph,
and the place looked horrible, I haven't seen any other Volvo shops
around... we don't want to risk our car over 50-100 bucks extra, the car is
still worth 40 grand to us, so we're not skimping on it at all). Tho, if I
knew more about more complex repairs on cars and had the tools I would try
my hand with changing the shocks myself - i've got some connections with a
parts store through a friend, just no time or real interest in doing much
more then oil changes, cleaning electrical connections, and other basic
maintenance.

Doing all 4 shocks just for uniformity basically... If it's still a bad ride
we'll bring it in for springs... Unless you really should do springs at the
same time as shocks.
 
also do the regular things. .. . flush the tranny & radiator, etc.

960s are fine cars. we have a 96 and a 97 (S90). (the last with the
"normal" engine placement). the s70 and 850 model, with the crossways
engine, seem lots noisier.

you mention some tough roads (chuck holes?). one thing that will make a
ride noisy and the handling seem not what it used to be are rims that hit
some chuck holes, making for odd tire wear and sounds that shouldn't be in
the classic nice-ness of a 960.
 
960s are fine cars. we have a 96 and a 97 (S90). (the last with the
"normal" engine placement). the s70 and 850 model, with the crossways
engine, seem lots noisier.
Click to expand...

The S70 and 850 don't use the 960/S90 engine (although it is a similar
engine). The S80 does have a direct descendant of the S90 engine, but
placed transversely; On the few occasions I've been in one, it seems no
noisier than a 960.

I agree with you that the S70 and 850 engines are more noisy than
the 6-banger used in the 960.

Beverly
 
Rough roads are more uneven and broken pavement... they patch the
pot-holes... Our rims are straight and true, thankfully.

Radiator is new this summer, brake fluid was done a year or so ago, and the
transmission fluid was checked, deemed not needed to be changed this time.

Thanks for the suggestions :-).

No odd tire wear ever with this car - she drives straight and true as well.
 
Rob, Volvo do not state a specific ATF replenishment timing. In the VOC we
recommend that the ATF (fully synthetic) be replaced at 100,000 mile
intervals. Of course a flush is also recommended at this interval.

Cheers, Peter.
 
It's been done 2-3 times already with 160K Kms on it, last flush was 2 years
ago.

Nothing would indicate it needs a flush right now, in a year we will get it
done, probably at 178K Kms with the timing belt change.
 
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