'98 V70 AWD rear brake pad

I had a scraping sound coming from the right rear wheel when I pulled
out of my driveway the other day and it appears that the pad behind
the rotor is out of place. So, I will be pulling the wheel today to
investigate further. The brake system appears to be disk, but I've
read elsewhere about a "combined" system on some Volvos. I do not
want to attempt to drive it to the local garage, due to the friction
between the pad and the rotor.

Is it pretty straightforward to remove the rotor for replacement (if
it is warped) and replace the pads, or are there any surprises or
complications that I need to account for ahead of time?

Any advice would be appreciated.

TIA,
Dave

 

As a follow up, is there any chance that the pad that I am seeing is
the emergency brake pad and not the regular brake pad?

 

Are the rear rotors on a 98 V70 free-floating or do I need to get a
tool to unscrew the nut from the spindle (something that I'm weary of
doing)?

TIA

 

The emergency brake is a drum unit under (?) the rotor. It is used only
for the E brake. As I recall, a metric allen wrench is used to remove
the brake caliper. The rotor is held on by a small bolt (10 mm wrench)
which may have an extention on it to locate the wheel. Take of the bolt
and the rotor should be free. A tap with a hammer may be necessary to
loosen it from the corrosion holding it to the axle.
HTH

 

Just to be clear...aside from that 10mm bolt that you mention, I
should not need to loosen the nut on the spindle in the center of the
rotor?

When I put the wheel back on the car, there is an extended post from
the rotor that aligns with a specific space on the wheel such that
there is only one way the wheel will properly mount. Is that the bolt
that you are referencing?

I apologize for the simplistic questions. I just want to be sure that
I am clear about what you are telling me.

I appreciate your reply.

Dave

 

Follow up...

I identified the 10mm nut from dlee's post and was finally able to get
the caliper bracket free. I looked at rotors on the net and saw that
mine did not require the nut on the center spindle to be removed. So
after several applications of rust-busting solvent and the use of a
mallet, I was able to get the rotor off.

The debris behind the rotor was a combination of the inner rotor
sleeve, as well as one shoe of the e-brake system. I cleared the
debris and re-assembled, knowing that I would not be able to finish
this evening.

While disassembled, I had a center hub with what I had read about
before...a disc brake system with drum e-brakes.

Can I get a drum kit for the springs, etc., and fix the e-brake system
without disassembling the center nut on the spindle, or am I going to
get in over my head? I understand how to disassemble and re-assemble
basic drum brakes, but I've never seen the combo system before, or a
set with a center hub.

My other question is with regard to the e-brake system as it currently
stands. We do not really use the e-brake for braking purposes. I use
it out of habit, due to growing up in a very hilly area, but we live
in a generally flat area now. On an AWD, does the e-brake system
pressure drum brakes on all four wheels, or just the rear?

TIA.
Dave

 

Yes you can purchase the brake shoes & all of the hardware & no you do
not touch the hub nut> Be advised that the dealer most likely will only
stock the shoe kit (both sides ) & will have to order you the springs
you may need the clip is what usually brakes
Glenn K
Volvo Certified Technician
ASE certified Technician

 

Glenn,
Thank you for the reply. I will look into getting the springs, etc.
If my memory is correct, there didn't appear to be much overlap of the
springs, but I will still take pictures, before touching them.

To your sig quote, I was simply happy to get the wheel, calipers and
rotor off and re-assembled without having to have the car towed.

Thanks again,
Dave

 

Just to follow up on this...the new rotor was easily replaced, however
the drum brake shoes are too thick for the new rotor to go on. We
even tried to combine the old shoe with a new one, but could not get
the drum over the new pads. We checked that the parking brake was
released, the pads and adjuster were properly seated, and that
everything was centered, but were not able to get the new rotor over
the new shoes.

Is there a tip on how to do this? We ended up putting the old shoe
pair back on with the new rotor. We're taking it to a mechanic on
Tuesday to look at something else and I'll ask him to take a look.
Filing down the pads seemed like a bad idea.

 

In the center console remove the small cover & there you will see the
adjuster for the brake cables back this all the way off this should help
also make sure that if there is a adjuster in between the shoes that
this is also turned all the way in
Glenn K
ASE Certified Technician
Volvo Certified Technician

 

I adjusted the adjuster at the pads all the way in, but did not know
about the one at the console. However, the parking brake was slack
when I had the pads off the car earlier today...such that there was no
tension in the cable that went in between the parking brake pads.

One question that I'd like to ask is that rather than take the entire
wheel, etc., apart again, would the adjuster in the console adjust the
parking brake so that rather than it being useless, it would hold the
car on a slope? Or do I need to further adjust the cable elsewhere?

 

On my '01 V70 XC, the hand brake works very well. I use it a red lights
on hills rather than the foot brake. The adjustment doesn't make the
brake work better, it gives you the correct amount of travel. If you
can pull you lever all the way up, then it is not adjusted correctly. If
you can pull the lever so that is pulls tight, the adjustment won't buy
you anything.

One thing, for some reason the hand brake is more effective at keeping
the car from rolling backwards than forwards. Don't ask me why.

 

Leading / trailing shoes ?

Nick

 

Is it common that the rotor drum does not fit over new pads? I still
have the old rotor, which has obvious wear on it, and the drum will
not go over the new pads either, not even with a nudge from a mallet.
It seems odd that adjusting the pads would make such a substantial
difference with slack in the line to begin with.

TIA,
Dave

 

With all the trouble you are having are you sure you have the correct pads?
It sounds like they are for a car with larger diameter rotors. I have a '99
Jetta that I was replacing the front rotor and pads on. The new rotors they
gave me were about 2" larger diameter than the ones on my car. Turns out
some of the Jettas that year got the brakes off the Golf. Go figure.

Just a thought.

 

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,

By how much will they not go? In other words, what is the diameter across
the linings when fitted, and what is the ID of the brake drum? If the
difference is large (say >5mm) the chances are that one or other is the
wrong part.[1] If the difference is small (~1mm), the chances are that you
haven't fitted the shoes properly. Are you sure that the adjuster is
adjusted to its *minimum* length, and that the bits on the end are pushed
fully onto the webs of the shoes? Are you sure that the curves of the shoes
are centred on the hub axis? [You may have to tap the shoes one way or the
other to make sure that they're centred on the drums].

[1] If, with neither the shoes nor the drum fitted to the car, you offer up
a shoe to the inside of the drum, does it fit snugly all round the lining,
or does it only touch at the ends - with a big gap in the middle?
--
Cheers,
Roger
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PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

 

The mechanical/hand bakes use shoes, not pads. The inside of the rotor
that the shoes use is called a drum and they are drum brakes. Shoes and
drums.

The hydraulic brakes use rotors and pads and are called disc brakes.

The rotor is a combination rotor/drum.

 

Thank you Steve, I am well aware of all that I was just trying to point
out how easy it is to get handed the wrong parts.

Allen

 

I can easily check the adjuster, which is at minimum length, and that
the shoes are centered. Actually, there is some movement with the
shoes, as there are metal clips that hold the shoes that has some
play, but regardless, the diameter of the rotor does not clear the
shoes. I don't have a method to accurately measure the ID, but am
more inclined to say that the new pads might be the problem because
the old rotor (which has wear) does not clear the pads either.

I didn't think to try your suggestion to fit the new pad in the new
rotor. I'll test that and reply back.

 

The new pads fit into the new and old rotor. I wasn't aware of this,
but my wife had made
an appointment with our mechanic for her AC, so I'm going to have him
take a look at it.

I'll reply back, in case this happens to anyone else. I appreciate
the replies and am
glad to have at least learned a bit in this task.

Thank you.
Dave