Brake replacement question on 95', 850 Turbo

[850TURBOpbp65]

I had my breaks inspected and was told I need new pads and rotors. Is is
possible to have new pads installed without the rotors being changed at
the same time? I'd like to install new pads now and new rotors in another
1000 miles. If it's possible, would it be safe?

 

[Michael Pardee]

I had my breaks inspected and was told I need new pads and rotors. Is is
possible to have new pads installed without the rotors being changed at
the same time? I'd like to install new pads now and new rotors in another
1000 miles. If it's possible, would it be safe?

Normally, yes. If any of the pads completely wore down so the metal backing
hit the rotor (you would hear a lound metallic grinding when you pressed the
brakes) that rotor will be in bad shape and will wear the new pad quickly.
Otherwise, rotor replacement is mainly a precaution. When the rotor wears
too much it can break, but there is a wide margin between specified minimum
thickness and the danger point.

Mike

Mike

 

[Stephen Henning]

I had my breaks inspected and was told I need new pads and rotors. Is is
possible to have new pads installed without the rotors being changed at
the same time?

It is possible, but it is like pi??ing in the wind. Sometimes the
rotors are what is destroying the pads, especially if the pads destroy
the rotor first. The best way to save money on brake maintenance is to
not follow too closely, slow down before braking by looking several cars
ahead, and replace worn parts before they destroy other parts. I keep
my Volvo's for 180,000 miles and seldom ever replace brake parts, but
always replace them when they first need it.

Dragging the brakes by leaving you foot on pedal and high speed braking
will kill brakes quickly. By slowing down before curves, long down
grades, when cars far in front of you are slowing, and not following too
close, you seldom have to use the brakes. My goal is to never use my
brakes unless I am going to come to a complete stop. [end soap box]

 

[Bonnet Lock]

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,

I had my brakes inspected and was told I need new pads and rotors. Is
is possible to have new pads installed without the rotors being
changed at the same time? I'd like to install new pads now and new
rotors in another 1000 miles. If it's possible, would it be safe?

Provided the discs (or rotors, if you insist!) are not worn below the
minimum permissible thickness, and are not badly scored or running out, it
is perfectly feasible to replace just the pads. With any luck, the discs
should last through at least two sets of pads.

However, if you're going to replace the discs 1000 miles later, there's not
much point in not doing it while everything is apart - particularly if you
are paying labour charges for someone else to do it. [If it's a D-I-Y job,
it's not quite so bad, but even so, 1000 miles . . .]

I changed all the pads and none of the discs at 40,000 miles on my 1999
V70 - and am expecting to have to change pads *and* discs at 80,000.

 

[John Robertson]

Brake pads and rotor thickness I was told my sons car needed new rotors so
I asked what's the tolerance and what are they don't know was the reply ?It
was the old con job .I have heard of many having rotors skimmed every time
pads are replaced ,it doesn't take much and your up for new rotors $$$$$.
As and old cab owner I ask as if I know little and see who's honest .Just
make sure you used top quality pads,no cheap junk as they work out expensive

 

[John Robertson]

I have a real problem with this rotor and pads idea .I brought a new falcon
in 1986 ran it for 880.000klm and I wont even try to convince you about the
front discs .I have seen so many conned into replacing Rotors \discs when
they are new almost .My sons s\h Volvo was said to need new discs\rotors to
pass its road worthy ,so I asked the mechanic what were the tolerances
,guess what he didn't have a clue ?.So it was a con job .As well always heat
up rotors \discs if the are warped then let them cool slowly so the grain of
the metal is some where near the natural flow .Other wise when they get warm
the will warp in to their natural shape or grain and be warped where they
were machined with the highs being low and the lows being high .If they are
misshapen when machined .If this doesn't make sense don't worry .I proved my
theory over millions of Klms and years of con artists trying me on .Work on
it you will understand .Use the best Pads you can and change your brake
fluid ,even if my own wife says why, the brakes are ok leave them alone?
..But then what would I know ?

I had my breaks inspected and was told I need new pads and rotors. Is is
possible to have new pads installed without the rotors being changed at
the same time?

It is possible, but it is like pi??ing in the wind. Sometimes the
rotors are what is destroying the pads, especially if the pads destroy
the rotor first. The best way to save money on brake maintenance is to
not follow too closely, slow down before braking by looking several cars
ahead, and replace worn parts before they destroy other parts. I keep
my Volvo's for 180,000 miles and seldom ever replace brake parts, but
always replace them when they first need it.

Dragging the brakes by leaving you foot on pedal and high speed braking
will kill brakes quickly. By slowing down before curves, long down
grades, when cars far in front of you are slowing, and not following too
close, you seldom have to use the brakes. My goal is to never use my
brakes unless I am going to come to a complete stop. [end soap box]
--
Cheers, Steve Henning in Reading, PA, USA
Owned '67,'68,'71,'74,'79,'81,'87,'93,'95 & '01 Volvos.
The '67,'74,'79,'87,'95 and '01 through European Delivery.
http://home.earthlink.net/~rhodyman/volvo.html