Chip modify a 945 T

Hi!
Considering 'chipping' my 945 Turbo-93.
I'm a total newbie but got a few questions:
Where's the chip located?
Can one download the flash program from the internet and reflash it oneself?
Anyone has any experience on this subject?
/Nisse

 

If you can solder you will have more fun building and tuning this:

http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html

Inexpensive and educational.

--

Regards,

Boris Mohar

Got Knock? - see:
Viatrack Printed Circuit Designs http://www3.sympatico.ca/borism/
Aurora, Ontario

 

The "chip" on this car only controls the fuel mapping, so you won't get
much improvement (if any) this way. Just turning up the boost a couple
of psi will get you more than any chip, and it's free!

 

www.volvotuning.co.uk

Try there

Griz

 

Not having any Turbo experience before, I can confirm this is very easy.

1. Buy a Boost pressure gauge
2. Buy or find a small air valve that has a multi turn knob and some tubing
that fits the turbo and the valve.
3. Locate the short tube that joins the turbo inlet side to the waste gate
actuator and insert a T piece inline.
4. Connect the free end of the T piece to the valve and close the valve to
have stock boost.
5. Connect up the boost guage with the T piece supplied to the line that
supplies the Volvo boost guage.
6. Drive the car and check everything is working normally.
7. Stop and open the valve a little, then check the boost at full throttle
8. repeat 7 until you achieve the desired boost pressure (11 psi is good on
a 2.3 945 for 0-60 in 7s, and Internet reports say this is reliable)
9. Make sure you've good good tyres and suspension, use Mobil 1 regularily
follow good practice warm up and turbo cool down,... and treat accelerator
with respect. 97/98 octane fuel is also a good idea o avoid losing torque
and having the mgt back the advance off from knocking.

You could avoid buying the boost guage and guess by the Volvo guage, the
needle should not reach the 'T' in the Turbo, I think that would put it over
13 psi which is the max I've heard anyone use.

You could go the whole hog and buy a kit from a tuning shop, expect to pay
about GBP70 for a 3 terminal Valve with the word Turbo on it, lots of heat
resistant tubing and a boost guage with tubing etc. Alternatively you could
buy tubing and valve from a pet fish shop for about GBP5, but it won't be
heat resistance and maybe last only a few years before hardening, falling
off and going full boost which will definately hute your engine, but not
instantly.

Make sure you have the full turbo and not the LPT.

 

The only thing you have to watch for is passing the ability of the fuel
injection to deliver fuel. On the older turbos with LH2.2 (up to 1989
models) there is a pressure switch that cuts off the fuel pump if the
boost is too high, which will be the first limit you come across. This
can be readjusted or bypassed, but if you go beyond the fuel map the
mixture will lean out, with potentially disastrous consequences. The
later ones with LH2.4 have the overboost function built into the
computer, boost is calculated from the load signal and engine rpm.
Chipping can add to the top of the fuel map preventing these problems,
but you'll need engine modifications before running into these limits.
So a fair amount of extra power is basically free, just by adjusting the
boost.

 

Presumably a 1995 would have LH 2.4. What is it referring to, the ECU?

I had presumed before that the air mass meter would provide the necessary
info about the extra air flow.

 

The fuel ECU or computer as I call it has a program built into it. To
simplify, this program takes signals from the engine speed sensor and
air mass meter. If the ECU determine that at a specific RPM there is
too much air flow, then the only logical event that could cause this is
too much boost, and it shuts down fuel delivery to stop the engine from
blowing up.

This program only goes so far above normal operating parameters before
it's effectively "off the scale". For example, there's not too much
point in programming for fuel delivery at 30 psi and 10,000 rpm when the
maximum boost is set to around 9 psi and maximum engine speed is 6500
rpm. Obviously at some point above the normally encountered parameters
(with some safety margin) you're going to go to a point that is not
programmed.