+++ Door and trunk lock won't open +++

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by Norbert, Nov 12, 2005.

  1. Norbert

    Norbert Guest

    I have a 1989 760 Turbo that the door locks ceased to turn. A few months ago
    the driver side lock wouldn't open, simply won't turn, as if I were using
    the wrong key. I managed to go through the hassle of opening up the
    passenger side door first so I can lift the lock up on the driver side to
    let myself in. Up until yesterday the same key would unlock both the
    passenger side door and the trunk however now the trunk lock refused to turn
    as well. So thinking it was simply a well worn out key I called Volvo to
    order a brand new replacement. Well $40.00 (Canadian) dollars later I got my
    new key and of course it didn't work, it opened the passenger side door and
    that's all, driver side and trunk still won't open even with a squirt of

    Has anyone had this experience and most importantly does anyone have a

    Thanks in advance,

    Norbert, Nov 12, 2005
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  2. Norbert

    NCMan Guest

    I have used an automotive key and lock spray solvent from Advance
    Auto/AutoZone/Pep Boys/etc with excellent results. Over time the door lock
    became more difficult to use, until one day the key could not turn the lock.
    It was summer, so it wasn't frozen with water.

    I sprayed it in the lock opening, then tried and the lock still would not
    open but it was easier to get the key in and out. So I took a few minutes
    and inserted/removed the key repeatedly, then gently twisted it up and down
    repeatedly, until finally it broke free and unlocked the door. I sprayed
    more and repeated the process a few times. I haven't had any more problems
    with it.

    Good luck,

    NCMan, Nov 12, 2005
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  3. Norbert

    Gary Heston Guest

    Don't use WD-40 for this; it's not a lubricant and will wash out what
    little might still be in there.
    For the door, spray a real oil in through the key opening, if that doesn't
    free it up promptly, open the door from the inside, pull the interior panel,
    and spray the lock cylinder, top and bottom. This would be a good time to
    apply grease (not spray oil) to every moving part of the lock mechanism and
    linkage. Make sure nothing is stuck or binding. If you have power windows,
    clean and lube the track, too.

    If you don't have an inside trunk release, try spraying oil into the key
    opening of the lock and hope it works loose. If you have an inside release,
    open the trunk and spray the cylinder as well as as through the key opening,
    grease the linkages as above.

    Gary Heston, Nov 12, 2005
  4. Norbert

    Randy G. Guest

    No wet lubricant should EVER be used in a lock. Locks need to be kept
    clean and dry for proper operation and long life. Wet lubes will work
    for the short term, but they draw dirt and when they dry out will
    cause a lock to stick and eventually it won't work. The best thing is
    proper maintenance and the best lubricant in dry graphite powder once
    or twice a year. Next is a wet lube that dries completely leavuing a
    dry lube behind (dri-slide?).

    If a lock is sticking then the best thing is to remove it, clean it,
    dry it, and lube it properly before replacing it.

    Which reminds me... it's time to clean the rest of the door mechanisms
    and locks! ;-)

    __ __
    Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
    '90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate
    "Shelby" & "Kate"
    Randy G., Nov 12, 2005
  5. Here in UK it is standard practice to use a door lock lubricant spray to
    keep the locks from freezing in wet winter weather. All the British
    manufacturers had such a spray on their parts listing for purchase from
    dealers. It is also recommended by Volvo AG (Swedish factories) so should be
    fine. Incidentally if any of you have worked on Fat Man (American 6,000lb
    Atom Bomb), as I have, you will realise the benefits of WD40. It was the
    ONLY lubricant/anti-freeze agent recommended for the electrical connectors
    on the Bomb Carrier which hooked up in the Bomb Bay with Fat Man on it. The
    Bomb Bay was subject to extreme cold (less than -55 degs C). I have always
    used WD40 with enormous success, for this sort of job, as it is excellent at
    repelling water and water-based infiltrants (made the word up but it seems
    to fit).

    All the best, Peter.

    700/900/90 Register Keeper,
    Volvo Owners Club (UK).
    Peter K L Milnes, Nov 13, 2005
  6. Norbert

    Gary Heston Guest

    Odd, I thought WD-40 was developed in 1953 and first sold for use on the
    Atlas missile program, which was some years after Fat Man--a 1945 design.

    When did you work with Fat Man?

    Gary Heston, Nov 13, 2005
  7. Norbert

    Ken Pisichko Guest

    Peter, I did not realize that WD-40 was available in 1945 in pressurized cans i
    presume. Thanks for this 1st hand information!

    Ken Pisichko, Nov 13, 2005
  8. Norbert

    Boris Mohar Guest

    Fat man had to work only once ;)

    Although WD40 is not a lubricant it sometimes works by dissolving and
    carrying some of the leftover lubricant in the desired location. WD40 than
    evaporates leaving some of the original lubricant behind. Use too much and
    you wash everything out like here already someone said. WD40 is also great
    for torching tent caterpillar nests but I digress.


    Boris Mohar

    Got Knock? - see:
    Viatrack Printed Circuit Designs (among other things) http://www.viatrack.ca

    void _-void-_ in the obvious place
    Boris Mohar, Nov 13, 2005
  9. Norbert

    Randy G. Guest

    Speaking of military works and flammable substances....

    My dad worked on a number of military contracts as a machinist back in
    the 60's. he would bring home coffee cans filled with magnesium alloy
    shavings from his job and for 4th of July we would set off a pile of
    them on a concrete slab and then hit it with the hose. Couldn't see
    for about 10 minutes afterwards, but it sure was a lot of fun!

    __ __
    Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
    '90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate
    "Shelby" & "Kate"
    Randy G., Nov 13, 2005
  10. Count me as one who hates locks that have been WD-40'd. Maybe it only occurs
    in high temperature areas, but I have encountered a lot of locks at work
    (when I was in the Phoenix area) that were sprayed when WD-40 was legal for
    linemen to carry. (It is flammable, so they have to use silicone now.) WD-40
    turns to a gum in a year or so, and spraying anything in the lock except
    more WD-40 will change it from being sticky to barely (or even not) turning
    at all. WD-40 will redissolve the goo... if you can get the key out.
    Padlocks that have been sprayed with WD-40 aren't worth messing with.

    Michael Pardee, Nov 13, 2005
  11. Early 60s. We were ringed with Thor bases till they shipped them out from
    our airfield. As you say it was developed in 1953 and used worldwide by most
    armed forces, not just for missiles.

    All the best, Peter.

    Peter K L Milnes, Nov 13, 2005
  12. Don't be silly Ken. Fat Man was operational until around 1961/2.

    All the best, Peter.
    Peter K L Milnes, Nov 13, 2005
  13. Perhaps it was poor quality locks made from any old crap.

    All the best, Peter.
    Peter K L Milnes, Nov 13, 2005
  14. Norbert

    Johan Plane Guest

    I have read the thread with some interest. Being a Swede, living in this
    Godforsaken country where the cars are made, I often experience lock problems
    due to the massive amount of salt used on the skid-roads we have here
    wintertime. Salt and dirt clogs up the locks effectively. The remedy is in two
    stages: 1/ Lock cleaner and 2/ Lock lubricant. Now, I have no experience of what
    WD40 is, over here we have an excellent lock manufacturer named ASSA-Abloy
    issuing their own sprays to do the job. And it never fails. So my advise is to
    either get a) something to dissolve the goey stuff clogging your lock and 2) a
    lubricant that is not sensitive to moist or great temperature variations.
    However I would advise against using any Mo-sprays.
    The other alternative is to unmount the lock cylinders and clean them i
    kerosene, diesel-fuel or equivalent and then lubricate with heavy grease.
    However, doing this will require yearly makeover I'm afraid.

    Cheers / Johan
    Johan Plane, Nov 19, 2005
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