E-Codes are now onboard

  • Thread starter Thread starter Jamie
  • Start date Start date
Those are nice rides! What wheels are on the 744 and what size tires?
I am also about to redo suspension. Do you have stock springs and what
shocks/struts?

Thanks!
 
The wheels are Borbet Type E 16", tires are 205/55R16 Yokohama AVS ES100
from TireRack.com, $1108, mounted, balanced and delivered. Except for the
ipd sway bars, the suspension is stock. This is my daily driver/freeway/road
trip car and I don't really want to compromise the ride. The 242t on the
other hand ;-) .....
 
Jamie,

In reviewing your photos it is obvious that you spent some time restoring a
744 in addition to adding the e-code lighting to the front. I bought a U.S.
spec 745 turbo in Belgium in 1987 and since that date have been running
e-code headlights, turn indicators and side marker lights. Pursuant to
this, I am curious as to what the function of the Dan Stern relay kit might
be. Is this related to the operation of the e-code lighting? My headlights
were just wired into the existing wiring harness and are dimmed using the
stalk by the steering wheel. Should I have installed them another way?

Anyway, you did a great job of restoring an old car.

P.S. I note that in one photo, the e-code indicator lights were clear/orange
while in another they were all clear. Where did you buy the e-code
lighting?
 
TEF,
Thanks for the compliments. It has been a lot of work that has seemed
to snowball at times. Hopefully I'll have the engine back in it soon.

The lights are from FCP Groton and are the DJ Auto lights, made in
Taiwan. The clear turn signals before were only the running lights. My
1987 had the turning signal below and the running lights on each
corner. The new lights have both turning and running lights in the
corners.

The relay kit is for two reasons. The first is that it is accepted (at
least in the US) that the OEM wiring does not provide sufficient power
for the headlights to shine at their designed capacity. The wiring is
too thin and too long, some power is lost and the lights are dimmer
than they should be. I am told that just by installing heavier wires,
closer to the lights from the source (battery or alternator), the
lights will shine much better. The relays and fuses are for safety and
function.

The second reason is by upgrading the wiring, I can switch from say a
65/50W bulb to
100/90W (I forget exactly what bulbs Dan is sending me, but they are
much higher wattage). If the headlights are aimed properly, the
increased wattage won't be blinding to other drivers. It seems to me
that Dan is providing me with the best and most practical lighting
possible to increase safety.

If I were to keep the standard wattage bulbs, no additional wiring
would be required - they are just plug-and-play. My wiring was so bad,
that I felt I would be wasting money to have paid hundreds of dollars
on new lights that weren't performing to specs.

Hope this helps some.

Best of luck!
 
Jamie,

Thanks for the info. On my e-code indicator lights, the top is a clear with
running light and the bottom is orange with a turn indicator. Yours from
FCP are clear on top and bottom. Therefore, do you use an orange-tinted
bulb for the turn indicator? If you don't mind, what did FCP charge for the
indicator lights and the headlight units. Mine purchased in Europe in 1987
from a Volvo dealer were quite expensive. I think I paid $400 for the
entire assembly and that was many years ago, but on the plus side, I am
still driving the car and they have lasted. However, I have replaced the
glass headlight covers once or twice due to stone damage.

By the way, if one uses the higher wattage H4 lights, is there a chance that
one will melt the plastic headlight housings? While the lenses are glass
(at least mine are) wouldn't the housing be at risk from the added heat?

Thanks for your response and explanation.
 
My new e-code turning lights are also amber and clear. My lights prior
to e-codes were all clear with an amber bulb:

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/jamiebabineaux/detail?.dir=81b3&.dnm=23dd.jpg&.src=ph

FCP Groton prices:
E-code headlamp assembly with glass lense: $115 per side
Turn lamp assembly - plastic - $40 per side
Plastic moulding strip to fit under each lamp $12 per side.
I think my total was $329 plus about $28 to ship if I remember
correctly.

Dan Stern's wiring kit: $45 (wires not included)
Bulbs were I think $18 each (2 total)

I looked and looked for authentic lamps in Europe (Germany, Norway,
Sweden), they were about $150 more for the set and about $80-100 to
ship.
 
I am not sure about melting the housing. I told Dan Stern what I had as
far as lights and these bulbs are his choice. Should be fine (fingers
crossed).
 
Jamie,

Thanks for the detailed response concerning the lighting from FCP. It's
good to know that they sell e-code lighting for the 7 series Volvos and not
just the 240's. I'll now know where to go in the event of replacements.
 
Back
Top