"Free" connectors in V740 ?? - To User!!!

[sq1euo]

gdg1/gdg4:
r/w wire grounds the constant idle motor (IAC) to cause it to go all the
way shut so that you can set the base idle at 750 rpm.

So I've to connect it with the ground (-) ??

The g/w wire reads the output voltage sweep for the 02 sensor feedback
from the control unit for setting idle CO. For LH cars the output
voltage sweep centered around 2.0 voltsDC with a clean and accurate MAF
sensor. The adjustment range ran from 0.01v-3.7v A good sweep would be
1.7-2.7v or so.


gdg2/gdg8:
The pink wire connects to the starter solenoid. You connect your remote
starter switch B+ there to spin the motor for adjusting valves, checking
compression, spinning belts on and off, or for whatever reason you need
to turn the motor effortlessly.

So,..If I want to move he starter, i've to connect the pink wire to the + ??
From acu??

The Y/R wire is the test point for the EZK control unit. It will
generate a flash code of 1-4, IIRC, through a test LED. If you make one
with long enough leads to reach through the back of the hood opening so
that it can be positioned under a wiper you can observe control unit
detected faults while test driving the car. There is only volatile
memory in the control unit so that once the key is cycled off the
recorded fauts are lost.

OK,..have You got some instructions how can I test the EZK?? What LED I've
to use and how read the flashes and some table with meaning on flashes. You
are sure that is the test point for EZK not for ECU?? What I can test by
this?...all ignition system? Bad reading from Hall sensor, ignition coil ,
etc.???

 

[User]

So I've to connect it with the ground (-) ?? Yes.

So,..If I want to move he starter, i've to connect the pink wire to the + ??

Yes direct to Battery + terminal. This is the same wire that goes
through the Neutral/Safety switch on an automatic transmission car. An
easy way to check the voltage drop through the switch when turning the
key won't engage the starter.

From acu?? ????


OK,..have You got some instructions how can I test the EZK?? What LED I've
to use and how read the flashes and some table with meaning on flashes. You
are sure that is the test point for EZK not for ECU?? What I can test by
this?...all ignition system? Bad reading from Hall sensor, ignition coil ,
etc.???

This is/was obsolete technology at the outset. The EZK box would only
report a few flash codes while the engine was running. In miles of test
driving problem cars the only code I ever saw was a 1. That indicated
that the knock sensor had triggered the ICU to retard the timing due to
ping. I don't have the manual anymore, but I think there were only the
four flash codes. It was a one way deal, the control unit would talk to
you but you couldn't tell it anything. The best diagnostic is to take
out the one screw that holds the control unit on the bracket and rap it
with a screwdriver handle, with the engine running, and one eye on the
tachometer. If the needle moves upward rapidly then the IC in the center
of the circuit board is loose or bad. EZK failures are few and far
between.

Bob