Hard Break Pedal And Stalling Engine?

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by Spinstorm, Apr 26, 2007.

  1. Spinstorm

    Spinstorm Guest

    I took my 98 S40 with 160,000 miles (I know its a lot!) into my local
    garage yesterday as my break pedal went hard when driving.

    Volvo (who I took it to first) thought it may be a locked break
    caliper but the garage checked it over and told me there was an air
    leak from the vacuum hose and that was causing the pedal to get hard
    and making the idle on my car drop down to around 500 whenever I
    slowed down for traffic or lights.

    So they changed it and I picked my car up and drove off and the pedal
    was soft for a few minutes then went hard and then within 15 minutes
    my revs were dropping to 300-400 RPM and then I started stalling!

    I must have stalled 10 times - everytime I slowed down - although when
    I got on the main road with no traffic the revs seems to be idling at
    800ish.

    So what is going on? my car was NEVER stalling before they changed the
    vacuum hose!

    and when I have been driving fast for 20 miles it seems to be idleing
    normally? but if I was sitting in traffic I am sure it would start
    stalling!

    The garage didnt know what it was and said they think there is
    probably another air leak somewhere causing it!

    Does anyone have any ideas what it may be? thanks.
     
    Spinstorm, Apr 26, 2007
    #1
  2. Spinstorm

    c.fiedler Guest

    Sounds like you have more than one thing that has failed. My first
    thought was that your vacuum booster had failed causing a heave brake
    pedal and letting extra air into the intake. I think the hose replaced
    probably needed to be replaced but so does the brake booster.

    Chuck Fiedler
    Nothing but Volvo since 1974
     
    c.fiedler, Apr 26, 2007
    #2
  3. Spinstorm

    Bill Bradley Guest

    Yes, it may be the fitting where the hose goes into the brake booster,
    or the check valve (sorry, dont' have a 40 so I'm not sure if it's an
    in-hose or integrated with the booster fitting). The other possibility
    is the booster itself.

    Bill
     
    Bill Bradley, Apr 26, 2007
    #3
  4. Spinstorm

    Spinstorm Guest

    ok the break booster or check valve for the break possibly? thanks!
    but what about the stalling engine?

    obviously I want working breaks but if my car keeps stalling I won't
    get very far? what is causing that?

    and why has it started happening since the hose was changed?
     
    Spinstorm, Apr 27, 2007
    #4
  5. Actually, it started happening when the brakes went hard. This is just the
    way it progressed as teh tear in the diaphragm got larger. Here's the big
    clue: how does the engine know when the brake pedal is pressed?

    When I read the original post, it screamed "brake booster" to me. Not the
    check valve, either :-(
    What is happening is that the booster is not using the vacuum to maintain
    pressure across the diaphragm, but instead is allowing a bunch of air to
    leak into the intake manifold through the hose that was replaced. When you
    step on the brake your foot is also off the accelerator, so even a modest
    amount of air - introduced through the booster when you stepped on the
    brake - is enough to cause some serious stumbling. If you pull that now
    useless hose off the booster and tape the end closed the brakes will feel
    just as they do now and the engine will not react any more.

    The booster has to be replaced. The Volvo price for boosters is usually
    frightening, so you may want to explore aftermarket and wrecking yard
    sources. RockAuto.com doesn't list a '98 S40, but their price for a 2000 S40
    http://tinyurl.com/2nj7ts is $292. The master cylinder has to come off to
    replace the booster, and I'd consider it likely the end of the MC that bolts
    to the booster is leaking fluid. If that isn't fixed the new booster won't
    last long, either.
     
    Michael Pardee, Apr 27, 2007
    #5
  6. Spinstorm

    Spinstorm Guest

    Thanks for that advice I am slightly confused though.

    what do you mean by the pressure against the diaphram? what diaphram
    do you mean? where is it?

    The vacuum hose is a new hose so why would that make the problem
    worse? remmeber they changed the hose and it seemed to solve the hard
    pedal problem, but shortly after I collected the car
    the pedal went hard and the car started stalling.

    How would I explain this to the garage in a manner that they would
    understand? as they seem pretty clueless! thanks
     
    Spinstorm, Apr 27, 2007
    #6
  7. Inside the brake booster, across the large cylindrical part, there is an
    elastic diaphragm. Vacuum from the engine's intake manifold is applied
    through that hose and the check valve to hold a vacuum on the front side of
    the diaphragm. When the brake pedal is released, a valve inside the booster
    closes off a port between the rear of the diaphragm and the outside air, and
    allows the vacuum to enter the rear side of the diaphragm so there is no
    pressure across it. No pressure, no push on the master cylinder, no brakes
    on.

    When the brake pedal is depressed the valve inside changes things around.
    The front is still on engine vacuum, but the rear is closed off from vacuum
    and the valve meters the amount of outside air into the chamber on the rear
    of the diaphragm. The higher pressure pushes on the diaphragm, which pushes
    on the master cylinder pushrod (harder than you push on the pedal, which
    provides the "boost") and the brakes are applied. You feel the spring in the
    valve when you press the brakes, while the pressure difference across the
    diaphragm pushes on the brakes.

    Your problems started when the diaphragm developed a tiny tear. It doesn't
    take much to ruin the vacuum, and you felt that as a hard pedal. At that
    stage there was already air being sucked through the tear into the intake
    manifold, but not enough that it upset the engine. You took the car in for
    repair, and they replaced the hose. Didn't hurt, may have helped
    momentarily... but the tear grew after that. Now when you press the brake
    pedal that valve still lets air into the rear side of the diaphragm.
    Unfortunately, the air now goes through the tear in enough volume it is
    affecting the engine.

    The garage was hoping for the best - they found the hose in bad shape and
    gave it a go. You'd have needed the hose anyway, and the symptoms at that
    point were also consistent with a bad hose or bad check valve. It wasn't
    until the engine started stumbling that the booster could be declared bad.

    Mike
     
    Michael Pardee, Apr 27, 2007
    #7
  8. Spinstorm

    Allen Guest

    I know this may seem too simple but have you lifted the hood and made sure
    the hoses are still connected? : )
     
    Allen, Apr 27, 2007
    #8
  9. Spinstorm

    Spinstorm Guest

    The car is actually with the garage so I would like to think they
    checked that it was attached!

    The damaged break booster makes sense to me although it is as you say
    expensive so its a shame if it is that!

    Just two quick questions which will seem stupid now - but from what I
    said is it therefore inpossible that the heavy break isnt a stuck
    caliper which is just coming unstuck now and then? and that the
    stalling is being caused by a dirty "butterfly" which is causing the
    revs to drop so low?

    I realise it would be an awfully big coincidence and I havent asked
    the garage if thats the case but I am wondering? thanks.
     
    Spinstorm, Apr 28, 2007
    #9
  10. Spinstorm

    Spinstorm Guest

    The car is actually with the garage so I would like to think they
    checked that it was attached!

    The damaged break booster makes sense to me although it is as you say
    expensive so its a shame if it is that!

    Just two quick questions which will seem stupid now - but from what I
    said is it therefore inpossible that the heavy break IS a stuck
    caliper which is just coming unstuck now and then? and that the
    stalling is being caused by a dirty "butterfly" which is causing the
    revs to drop so low?

    I realise it would be an awfully big coincidence and I havent asked
    the garage if thats the case but I am wondering? thanks.
     
    Spinstorm, Apr 28, 2007
    #10
  11. The critical part is: does stepping on the brake cause the engine to change
    a lot? If not, there could still be other explanations. Otherwise....

    The garage will probably do the definitive test on the brake booster -
    connect a hand vacuum pump to the hose fitting on the booster and verify it
    will hold vacuum. Next, repeat the test with a helper's foot on the brake.
    If the booster diaphragm is okay, it will still pump down. If the diaphragm
    is torn, the vacuum will leak off as fast as it can be pumped up.

    Mike
     
    Michael Pardee, Apr 28, 2007
    #11
  12. Spinstorm

    Spinstorm Guest

    I got the car back from the garage today - they say they tracked down
    another air leak somewhere else and that caused the pedal
    problem and stalling.

    The car seems to be idleing better although I am going to take it for
    a longer drive tomo and see if it doesnt stall.

    But the break still feels hard - not as hard as before but firmer than
    it did since I have had the car! the garage say this is ok and normal
    and my fathers friend who knows about cars says that it feels better
    as its firm... but it never felt like that before so I am worried
    about
    the breaks!

    I called out my breakdown service tonight as I wanted an unbiased
    opinion of the problem from someone who can look at the car but does
    what the garage told me sound like it makes sense? do volvo breaks
    feel firm normally or soft? surely if my breaks were too soft before
    then
    when the car has been in the garage and checked many times (including
    gearbox and engine issues) then the garage would have said my
    breaks feel too soft and are not normal?

    what is going on? who is right? someone clarify this for me please!
     
    Spinstorm, Apr 30, 2007
    #12
  13. Spinstorm

    Spinstorm Guest

    Ok I had the RAC here (breakdown people) they checked the vacuum on
    the engine and the guy (who was very good and helpful) said he was
    happy with it
    and it felt fine to him - we then went for a drive and he said the
    breaks were firm but that was what they should feel like!

    I asked him why they were soft before and he told me he didn't know
    but it sounded like there was a problem with them before and now they
    are good... I trust what
    he said but thats just wierd that they would be soft and now they are
    firm and work well?

    anyway I will see if the stalling is sorted by driving around a bit
    more tomorrow - if that is ok and they said the breaks were ok then I
    will assume all is well but
    its just strange that they would feel so different now than before!
     
    Spinstorm, May 1, 2007
    #13
  14. Spinstorm

    James Sweet Guest


    Air in the system will make the *brakes* feel mushy, a good setup should
    be firm, but 240 brakes are usually quite sensitive so you should not
    have to depress the pedal very hard to stop the car.
     
    James Sweet, May 1, 2007
    #14
  15. Spinstorm

    Spinstorm Guest

    I have an S40 - and I did have to depress it far to break before - it
    did feel soft and mushy although I liked the fact that it didnt jerk
    around when i breaked

    the fact is the breaks are sensative now and not much pressure breaks
    the car! the guy actually removed the break servo/booster vacuum tube
    from the car to show me how hard it was to break without it and it
    was very difficult!
     
    Spinstorm, May 1, 2007
    #15
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