Help!!!! 91 940 Turbo / B230F water pump / Crank pulley

  • Thread starter Thread starter mike
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mike

My water pump started to make noises... so I decided to change it.
I've got some experience, I did a body-off resto on a 145, and
did all the regular maintenance on a 81 240 before it got
totaled......
(anybody need some new-in-the-box CIS injectors?)

So I pulled the fan shroud, then the fan and clutch together, then
the top half of the timing belt cover....

Got the pump off, but dropped one of the little nuts down inside the
timing belt cover bottom half. Tried to use a string and magnet to
recover it and the magnet dropped down inside it as well !!!

Does someone have an idea on how toI get the nut and magnet out?

Looking at the engine suggests to me that pulling the bottom of the
timing belt cover means that the crank pulley has to come off...

So what's the magic incantation to pull the crank pulley?

I've got the proper socket and a breaker bar, but how do you hold the
crank in place?? The pulley has one big bolt and some slots... the
book shows 4 small bolts and one big bolt. Previous engines on
Fords,
Chevys, AMCs and Opels have all had fairly obvious methods...

Thanks in advance...

BTW, I found this page <http://cvolvo.com/Central/Repair/B230.html>,
which warns about dropping a nut... AFTER I dropped the nut inside
the timing chain cover....

Mike
 
mike said:
My water pump started to make noises... so I decided to change it.
I've got some experience, I did a body-off resto on a 145, and
did all the regular maintenance on a 81 240 before it got
totaled......
(anybody need some new-in-the-box CIS injectors?)

So I pulled the fan shroud, then the fan and clutch together, then
the top half of the timing belt cover....

Got the pump off, but dropped one of the little nuts down inside the
timing belt cover bottom half. Tried to use a string and magnet to
recover it and the magnet dropped down inside it as well !!!

Does someone have an idea on how toI get the nut and magnet out?

Looking at the engine suggests to me that pulling the bottom of the
timing belt cover means that the crank pulley has to come off...

So what's the magic incantation to pull the crank pulley?

I've got the proper socket and a breaker bar, but how do you hold the
crank in place?? The pulley has one big bolt and some slots... the
book shows 4 small bolts and one big bolt. Previous engines on
Fords,
Chevys, AMCs and Opels have all had fairly obvious methods...

Thanks in advance...

BTW, I found this page <http://cvolvo.com/Central/Repair/B230.html>,
which warns about dropping a nut... AFTER I dropped the nut inside
the timing chain cover....

Mike
Click to expand...
Go to a hardwarestore and buy a screwdriver with a pickupmagnet.
like this one :
http://www.clasohlson.no/Archive/Images/Products/Hi/309881_X_2007-07-04_132424_696.jpg

I've used it once!

Jan-Erik
 
mike said:
My water pump started to make noises... so I decided to change it.
I've got some experience, I did a body-off resto on a 145, and
did all the regular maintenance on a 81 240 before it got
totaled......
(anybody need some new-in-the-box CIS injectors?)

So I pulled the fan shroud, then the fan and clutch together, then
the top half of the timing belt cover....

Got the pump off, but dropped one of the little nuts down inside the
timing belt cover bottom half. Tried to use a string and magnet to
recover it and the magnet dropped down inside it as well !!!

Does someone have an idea on how toI get the nut and magnet out?

Looking at the engine suggests to me that pulling the bottom of the
timing belt cover means that the crank pulley has to come off...

So what's the magic incantation to pull the crank pulley?

I've got the proper socket and a breaker bar, but how do you hold the
crank in place?? The pulley has one big bolt and some slots... the
book shows 4 small bolts and one big bolt. Previous engines on
Fords,
Chevys, AMCs and Opels have all had fairly obvious methods...

Thanks in advance...

BTW, I found this page <http://cvolvo.com/Central/Repair/B230.html>,
which warns about dropping a nut... AFTER I dropped the nut inside
the timing chain cover....

Mike
Click to expand...
If the transmission is a manual, you can put it in high gear and have
somebody hold the brakes. Ours is an auto and I had a helper hold a
screwdriver jammed in the ring teeth on the flywheel. Eons ago somebody
posted a link for a genuine holder but I don't seem to have that link.

To break the crank bolt loose I put the socket handle on a floor jack and
started lifting. The front wheels were nearly off the ground before the bolt
started to give.

If you're going that far, consider replacing the timing belt.

Mike
 
I have previously had luck with sucking up lost parts with a vacuumcleaner
and a smaller piece of hose ind the end of it.

Greetings Niels
 
OK, I used Michael Pardee's jack trick and broke the crank bolt loose,
pulled the crank off, the lower half of the timing cover off, got the
magnet and nut out, and bought a new timing belt.

Anybody have any suggestions on the right way to change the belt?

Or how to tighten the crank bolt? (it's an automatic)
You mentioned holding a screwdriver in the ring gear teeth... is that
from the bottom, the side, where?

Thanks too all for the help this far...

Mike
 
mike said:
OK, I used Michael Pardee's jack trick and broke the crank bolt loose,
pulled the crank off, the lower half of the timing cover off, got the
magnet and nut out, and bought a new timing belt.

Anybody have any suggestions on the right way to change the belt?

Or how to tighten the crank bolt? (it's an automatic)
You mentioned holding a screwdriver in the ring gear teeth... is that
from the bottom, the side, where?

Thanks too all for the help this far...

Mike
Click to expand...

The belt is relatively easy, but you should really have the manual for
this job, as getting it wrong will really break the engine. You need to
match up the white dot on the gears with the lines on the belt and the
fixed marks behind the pullies. The bottom one is the hardest as you
have to wrap the belt around the gear before fully lacing up, the gear
mark is often on the washer so you have to keep that on, then the mark
on the casing is difficult to find, covered in oil/dirt or just confising.

The tension wheel is lossened off at the start and compessed by hand and
a small rod or screwdriver inserted in the hole which is exposed, then
the tensioner can be removed. To reset slacken off and retighten to
clamp bolt.

Remove the cover at the bottom in front of the bell housing to see the
bottom half of the ring gear/flywheel. Working under the car on axle
stands you can jam the ring gear with a screw driver against the bell
bousing and torque up the crank pulley with the other hand. Take up the
tension, that should hold the screw driver in place, then transfer that
hand to the torque wrench, I think it needs 110ft.lbs but don't have my
manual to hand.
 
Tony said:
The belt is relatively easy, but you should really have the manual for
this job, as getting it wrong will really break the engine. You need to
match up the white dot on the gears with the lines on the belt and the
fixed marks behind the pullies. The bottom one is the hardest as you have
to wrap the belt around the gear before fully lacing up, the gear mark is
often on the washer so you have to keep that on, then the mark on the
casing is difficult to find, covered in oil/dirt or just confising.

The tension wheel is lossened off at the start and compessed by hand and a
small rod or screwdriver inserted in the hole which is exposed, then the
tensioner can be removed. To reset slacken off and retighten to clamp
bolt.

Remove the cover at the bottom in front of the bell housing to see the
bottom half of the ring gear/flywheel. Working under the car on axle
stands you can jam the ring gear with a screw driver against the bell
bousing and torque up the crank pulley with the other hand. Take up the
tension, that should hold the screw driver in place, then transfer that
hand to the torque wrench, I think it needs 110ft.lbs but don't have my
manual to hand.
Click to expand...


This is a non-interference engine (despite what some manuals will tell you)
so getting it wrong won't break the engine, but it will run amazingly
poorly, if at all, if you get it misaligned by even one tooth.
 
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