How much oil consumption is normal for an 850 (non-turbo)?

Discussion in 'Volvo 850' started by Bev A. Kupf, Nov 20, 2004.

  1. Bev A. Kupf

    Bev A. Kupf Guest

    This is the first time that I have done an oil consumption test on our
    850. There was a loss of about 0.5 quarts (maybe a little less than that)
    in 1100 miles. This was measured using the dipstick.

    There's no oil in the driveway, and the engine compartment is quite clean,
    so the engine might be burning oil.

    What is the normal rate of oil consumption be for a '97 850? As long as
    this consumption is not dramatically higher than that, I don't want to
    spend the money for replacing the valve seals right now.

    Thanks,
    Beverly
     
    Bev A. Kupf, Nov 20, 2004
    #1
  2. Bev A. Kupf

    Henry Guest

    How many miles on the engine? The 'normal' oil consumption for my '95
    850T is zero--but it's a very low mileage car (<40K).

    cheers,

    Henry
     
    Henry, Nov 21, 2004
    #2
  3. Bev A. Kupf

    Guest Guest

    Having done 150k in two 5 cylinders ( a 2l 20v and now a 2.5 10v) and
    servicing several custermers 5cylinder cars, I would say normal oil
    consumption over a 5-6000mile interval is none. (no discernable movement on
    the dipstick)

    Tim..
     
    Guest, Nov 21, 2004
    #3
  4. Bev A. Kupf

    gert Guest

    Hello;

    It's not easy to say:
    First of all: Which engine type (850 2.0 liters or a 2.5 liters, a 10 or
    20 valve engine? Mileage?
    Second: In very hot or very cold climates the engine uses a "lot" of
    oil, sometimes as much as 1/2 liter every 2000 km's. You should use the
    oil suitable for your circumstances and driving habits.
    Third: Pulling heavy loads such as trailers, caravans etc uses up some oil.
    Fourth: City driving, long hauls through flat terrain, mountain driving,
    short drives.What kind of driver are you? Is your right foot very nervous?
    In general:
    Every Volvo uses some oil in some degree. It is a good sign because then
    the engine is lubricated. If the dipstick stays at the same level it is
    just because water and other fluids stay behind in the oilpan!
    -Check for foam and residue: Open the filer cap and have a look.
    Let someone start the engine a look for a darkblueish "cloud". If it's
    there it should dissapear after a few seconds. Let the engine warm up.
    Rev the engine and check for blue smoke.

    If that's not the case, change the oil for a high grade syntetic oil
    siutable for the car and your circumstances. You can also try mixing
    some additive in the oil (Slick 50) to reduce friction.

    Gert
     
    gert, Nov 22, 2004
    #4
  5. Bev A. Kupf

    Guest Guest

    B5204S and B5252S engines, the first from 0 upto 110k when we sold it, the
    second at 50k, now at 70k. Both engines have 5k oil and filter changes
    during the car's time with us, using a leading quality G5/ SJ spec 10w-40
    mineral (dino) oil.
    Our climate doesnt really require different viscosity's of oil depending on
    the season.
    oil.

    How do you surmise this? Granted the engine may run hotter if its working
    harder, but using the correct grade in a healthy engine, certainly in the
    case of most Volvo units will not lead it to burn any appreciable amount of
    oil. Personnally I've not experiecned any increase in oil consumption (i.e.
    measurable on the stick) after certain extreme driving.
    Varied and mixed. From short 2-3mile trips at low speed to the shops to
    extended high speed (100mph+) long distance cruising.
    Depends who's driving. Both cars have had varied use from very gentle max
    mpg driving to being driven very hard- only when fully warmed up mind and
    with mechanical sympathy. Neither are shy of the red-line.
    Foam residue is often caused by short low temperature runs.
    Are you totally mad?!

    Tim..
     
    Guest, Nov 22, 2004
    #5
  6. Both my 20-valve non-turbos, '93 850 with 180,000 miles and '95 with
    115,000 miles never need any oil between 10,000 mile changes except when
    a seal was beginning to leak. The seals usually started leaking while
    still under warranty or soon thereafter. This must be normal, since the
    mechanics always found it immediately.

    If it is the valve oil seals, it usually will issue a little cloud when
    you step on the gas after going down a steep grade. Some other seals go
    to internal areas so no drip does not mean that only valve seals leak.

    Make sure that the difference was not because it was measured the second
    time when there was still oil in the valves and it hadn't drained down
    yet. The problem may be the drain path from the valves to the pan.
     
    Stephen Henning, Nov 23, 2004
    #6
  7. Bev A. Kupf

    Bev A. Kupf Guest

    Thank you all for your responses to my query. Some of you asked how many
    miles were on the engine -- about 93,000. Also the engine is the 20-valve
    engine (2.5L).

    Here's the thing -- there's no unusual amount of blue smoke in the
    exhaust -- in fact, there's none that I can detect.
    I tried this, with someone following behind. The gradient wasn't very steep,
    but he didn't notice any cloud of blue smoke (or anything unusual).
    This now seems highly likely. Instead of waiting 20 minutes after
    turning the engine off to measure the oil level, if I wait about an hour,
    the level is back where it should be.

    So, it maybe that there is a problem in the drain path from the valves
    to the pan. That doesn't sound good. Will flushing with a detergent-
    based oil clear the path?

    Beverly
     
    Bev A. Kupf, Nov 23, 2004
    #7
  8. Bev A. Kupf

    Guest Guest

    You wont see any; if the catalyst is in good order and hot, it will burn the
    blue oil smoke the engine produces- so nothing will come out the back.....

    Tim.
     
    Guest, Nov 23, 2004
    #8
  9. No, because all oil is detergent based and the problem still occurred.
    You might try some additives. I like Techron, but there may be some
    better ones. A mechanic may be able to open those orfices for very
    little money. Your oil may be too thick also. You may need to change
    oil and filter more often or use a lighter weight oil.

    I am sure that the synthetic oil advocates will chime in, but I use
    factory recommended oil at factory recommended intervals and have no
    problems. It makes people feel better to throw money at potential
    problems though.
     
    Stephen Henning, Nov 23, 2004
    #9
  10. Bev A. Kupf

    gert Guest

    Tim (Remove NOSPAM. wrote:
    Beg pardon?

    Gert
     
    gert, Nov 24, 2004
    #10
  11. Bev A. Kupf

    Jim Carriere Guest

    I believe he was referring to the comment about Slick 50.

    My opinion is the stuff is a waste of money, can possibly clog oil
    passages, and in that regard I concur with the comment, "Are you
    totally mad?!"
     
    Jim Carriere, Nov 24, 2004
    #11
  12. were you angles the same or was the front down or up must be the same each
    time to correctly measure the oil as well what was the temp of the oil hot
    or cold .every car uses some oil but synthetic stops boil off losses .
     
    John Robertson, Nov 28, 2004
    #12
  13. I have a 97 850 no turbo and in 3000 miles it uses less then a quart. At
    3000 miles the oil is changed, usually at a quick lube place.

    Perhaps the filters used are not Mann quality, but for 3000 mile change
    intervals I think they are fine...BTW I have 123,000 miles :)
     
    Steve n Holly, Nov 28, 2004
    #13
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