Is this a mis-aligned timing belt????????????????

  • Thread starter Thread starter Jamie
  • Start date Start date
Forgot to ask, if so, can I adjust it easily with just this cover
removed?

1987 740 GLE
B230F
 
My neighbor walked over and said I can't judge the timing by the
position of the belt, so I am not sure if these marks should always
line up or not. I would say they should. But, I could be wrong.
 
Jamie said:
Please tell me this is not what I think it is. Notice the white line
on the belt and the white mark on the pulley. Are these lines supposed
to be aligned and could this be why my car has NO power?

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/jamiebabineaux/detail?.dir=/d76dre2&.dnm=da10re2.jpg&.src=ph

I just had the timing belt, seals pulley replaced and the mechanic said
the timing may have "slipped."

Please advise.

Jamie
Click to expand...
Remove the upper & lower covers & turn the crankshaft until you can see
the mark on the timing gear on the crankshaft there is a small stamping
on the cover where the seal sits once this is lined up correctly check
the marking's for the camshaft & the intermediate shafts if these mark
are not lined up correctly then this is your problem as for the mark on
the belt not lining up once you run the engine the marks on the belt
will not line up correctly anymore the lines are there for installing
the belt the 1st time
Post back with results
Glenn

--
"*-344-*Never Forgotten"
Is for the New York City Firemen who lost their lives on September 11,2001.
The official count is 343, but there was also a volunteer who lost his life
aiding in the initial rescue efforts. And I will never forget them as
long as I live,
nor should any American.
 
Please tell me this is not what I think it is. Notice the white line
on the belt and the white mark on the pulley. Are these lines supposed
to be aligned and could this be why my car has NO power?

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/jamiebabineaux/detail?.dir=/d76dre2&.dnm=da10re2.jpg&.src=ph

I just had the timing belt, seals pulley replaced and the mechanic said
the timing may have "slipped."

Please advise.

Jamie
Click to expand...
First the double mark on the belt means nothing once the motor has
turned. It's a set up mark for the crank pully. If the notch on the
crank pulley is lined up with the index mark on the timing seal cover,
(use a bendalight or strong flashlight to look down inside the lower
timing cover) then by my count the belt is three teeth advanced. Turn
the engine one more revolution and put the crank shaft pulley mark in
register by checking the notch as above the notch on the damper pulley
should be at 0 on the timing cover and the white mark (dot) on the cam
pulley should align with the mark on the inner timing cover (dead center
on the arc of the cam cover). Right now if the crank is correct the cam
is about three teeth wrong.

Before you reset the belt take the 17mm headed bolt out of the cam
pulley and make sure that the roll pin that indexes the pulley to the
cam shaft has not sheared off. If that's OK put the bolt back and torque
to spec. Now slacken the nut 17mm wrench on the tensioner. Use a long
screwdriver or pry bar to collapse the spring and tighten the nut. The
belt can be easily slid off the cam pulley. Using the same 17mm wrench
turn the cam to its index position, slide the belt back on, slacken the
nut on the tensioner, tighten, turn the motor over two times by hand,
recheck the marks for alignment--if they're ok put the cover back on.
Good to go, otherwise reset the belt again, etc. etc.

Don't depend on the notch on the damper pulley. The outer sheaves are
just pressed over a rubber sleeve on the hub and it can turn relative to
the crankshaft (over time) and can be unreliable.

Bob

--The goal when driving is to miss the maximum number of objects.
 
Thanks Bob. I have to ask - would 3 teeth make a noticeable difference
in engine performance? Right now the engine really runs like crap from
a stop - no power. Once I get going it does better.


It starts and idles fine, but it really sucks out of the starting gate.
When I get into 3rd gear and up she runs like a real car. Before 3rd
gear it runs like a 90 year old mule.

Jamie
 
Thanks Bob. I have to ask - would 3 teeth make a noticeable difference
in engine performance? Right now the engine really runs like crap from
a stop - no power. Once I get going it does better.


It starts and idles fine, but it really sucks out of the starting gate.
When I get into 3rd gear and up she runs like a real car. Before 3rd
gear it runs like a 90 year old mule.

Jamie
Click to expand...
Just gotta be a wise guy. If it didn't make a difference they wouldn't
go to the trouble of putting marks on things so one could do the job
effortlessly and have the correct result. As the teacher said in second
grade, "Check your work BEFORE you turn it in." Your guy didn't and as
you can tell it makes a noticeable difference.

Bob
 
Jamie said:
Please tell me this is not what I think it is. Notice the white line
on the belt and the white mark on the pulley. Are these lines supposed
to be aligned and could this be why my car has NO power?

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/jamiebabineaux/detail?.dir=/d76dre2&.dnm=da10re2.jpg&.src=ph

I just had the timing belt, seals pulley replaced and the mechanic said
the timing may have "slipped."

Please advise.

Jamie
Click to expand...

The belt marks only line up correctly when first installed. To check
if everything is lined up correctly you need to match little dimples on
the three pulleys with marks on the cover. You can do a cam to crank
check with just the top cover off by hand turning the crank to when the
timing mark on the damper/pulley lines up with the "0" on the lower
cover, then check to see that the cam sprocket dimple lines up with the
mark on the top cover. Then you can confirm the secondary shaft timing
by doing a test of ignition timing with a timing light.

Also, most people seem to neglect to reset the timing belt tension 500
miles after a belt change.

Joh
 
User said:
Don't depend on the notch on the damper pulley. The outer sheaves are
just pressed over a rubber sleeve on the hub and it can turn relative to
the crankshaft (over time) and can be unreliable.
Click to expand...

If that happens it is certainly time for a new damper/pulley!

John
 
Jamie said:
Thanks Bob. I have to ask - would 3 teeth make a noticeable difference
in engine performance? Right now the engine really runs like crap from
a stop - no power. Once I get going it does better.
Click to expand...

Three teeth off would make a very big difference! One tooth off will
screw things up.

BTW, properly installed belts don't just slip on their own. If the belt
jumped, something was done wrong.

John
 
The belt marks only line up correctly when first installed. To check if
everything is lined up correctly you need to match little dimples on the
three pulleys with marks on the cover. You can do a cam to crank check
with just the top cover off by hand turning the crank to when the timing
mark on the damper/pulley lines up with the "0" on the lower cover, then
check to see that the cam sprocket dimple lines up with the mark on the
top cover. Then you can confirm the secondary shaft timing by doing a
test of ignition timing with a timing light.

Also, most people seem to neglect to reset the timing belt tension 500
miles after a belt change.

Joh
Click to expand...

I don't know this engine but I do know that most people DO NOT check the
"timing belt tension" 500 miles after fitting - FFS ... that is what the
"automatic timing belt tensioner" shown in the picture is for !

Nick
 
Jamie said:
Please tell me this is not what I think it is. Notice the white line
on the belt and the white mark on the pulley. Are these lines supposed
to be aligned and could this be why my car has NO power?

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/jamiebabineaux/detail?.dir=/d76dre2&.dnm=da10re2.jpg&.src=ph

I just had the timing belt, seals pulley replaced and the mechanic said
the timing may have "slipped."

Please advise.

If the belt has moved you should get it checked as sson as possible. From
Click to expand...
the
picture itis hard to see if the engine is in OT position - if it is the
camshaft position
might be critical due to engine damages - pistons hitting the valves.

After belt installation it is very important to loosen/fasten belt tensioner
after 500 km's
drive to avoid belt vibration and sliding problems.

Best regards Per
 
Thanks all. I'm going to have the timing checked by someone more
familiar with Volvo's than I. I had the crankshaft machined, the
bearings replaced, all the seals changed, the timing belt, tensioner
replaced, fuel injector seals replaced and a new engine wiring harness
installed recently. All done by a friend of a neighbor who's a great
mechanic - just never worked on a Volvo.

So, I am trying to work any bugs or glitches out. I post more when I
get the timing checked correctly.

Jamie
 
Will do. I found a hole about the size of a pencil eraser on the bottom
of the intake hose between the AMM and throttle body. I patched that,
but not sure how much of an effect that hole would have. The engine
still didn't seem to do better after that.

I'm going to give Southwest Auto in Dallas a shot, they are supposed to
be Volvo experts - I just hope the labor rates are fair.

I don't know how much it usually costs to check/adjust timing belts if
needed.
 
I stopped by the local mechanic and just by listening and pumping the
accelerator he thinks the timing is retarded. I am scheduled to go in
next week and have the gears checked for alignment and if needed the
belt repositioned with the gears.

Price: $130 (3 hours labor).

I still want to put a timing light on the car to see.
 
Jamie said:
I stopped by the local mechanic and just by listening and pumping the
accelerator he thinks the timing is retarded. I am scheduled to go in
next week and have the gears checked for alignment and if needed the
belt repositioned with the gears.

Price: $130 (3 hours labor).

I still want to put a timing light on the car to see.
Click to expand...

Thats a very reasonable labor rate.
It's US dollars in the US?
 
Jamie said:
I stopped by the local mechanic and just by listening and pumping the
accelerator he thinks the timing is retarded. I am scheduled to go in
next week and have the gears checked for alignment and if needed the
belt repositioned with the gears.

Price: $130 (3 hours labor).

I still want to put a timing light on the car to see.
Click to expand...

The price would be almost 3X that here in No. California!
 
Wow - that is high.

I am in a very small town in NE Texas and the labor rates are
reasonable - for most things. The downside is that I was driving 80
miles to Dallas to get parts when I couldn't get them online in time.
 
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