last chance for 760 T

Discussion in 'Volvo 760' started by Paul Hosking, May 23, 2006.

  1. Paul Hosking

    Paul Hosking Guest

    My wife has given notice...it the 1985 760t doesn't stop conking out when
    she's driving at 100klms p hour 60mps then she want's a new car...gasp.

    what is going on.

    it is very intermittent but what happens is the car just seems to die when
    you're driving along at speed but I suspect mostly when my wife pumps the
    accelerator as she drives... I'm pretty sure the electrics keep going and
    I've replaced the fuel filter.

    could it be

    the pump?
    dirty injectors??
    plugs???
    leads????

    what do I replace first.?

    Paul
     
    Paul Hosking, May 23, 2006
    #1
  2. Paul Hosking

    klh Guest

    BUY HER A NEW CAR? why not.
    are you sure?
    my 85 745 did the same problem. finally it was fixed by taking every
    connection and polichsing with an eraaser tip until shiny. then the
    problem went away for about 6 years. then when it happened again, i got
    a v70xc awd :)
     
    klh, May 23, 2006
    #2
  3. In <S8Bcg.9320$>,
    Start by making sure the fuel pump relay is okay.

    AC
     
    Aawara Chowdhury, May 23, 2006
    #3
  4. Paul Hosking

    Paul Hosking Guest

    Where is the fuel pump relay?

     
    Paul Hosking, May 23, 2006
    #4
  5. In the center console, forward of the fuses (remove the ashtray.) It is the
    rectangular white plug-in in the second row back, at the left end of the row
    as you look into the opening. The cover can be pried off, and the solder
    connections inspected in good light - my aging eyes require sunlight now.
    The normal failure takes the form of hairline cracks around the larger
    connections, but you may need a magnifying glass to see them depending on
    how good your eyes are.

    More often the fuel pump relay causes the engine to fail to start when warm
    rather than killing it while driving. The symptoms sound more like the
    ignition "power stage" is overheating. That module is mounted on the inside
    of the fender beside the battery. An important indicator for that is that
    the tach drops before the engine stops rather than the tach displaying the
    dying engine's speed faithfully. (Actually, any ignition failure does that
    also.) The repair is simple and you may want to do it as a precaution:
    unmount the module, scrub both surfaces clean (I like Scotchbrite for that
    sort of job) and remount using silicone grease on the mating surfaces.

    Mike
     
    Michael Pardee, May 23, 2006
    #5
  6. Paul Hosking

    klh Guest

    how can you be sure?
    after one trip to service and four days, the mechanic told me when i got
    it back was the only thing he was sure of was that it was not yet fixed!

    and the answer was to clean all the contacts. the 1985 wiring harness
    was not so good and the rubber breaks down and the contacts corrode.
    mine was only 6 years old when i started having problems.

    the car would stop and then after a few minutes, start again.
    a tow truck ride was especially good for a restart.
    after the shop declared it fixed, 30 min later it didn't start.
    another ride to the dealer and then stayed for a week.

    that was when all the connectors got polished and checked.
    after that it did fine for another 5 years, till nov 1997 and it died again

    this time it went to goodwill for somebody to deal with
    and i ordered a 98 v70xc for overseas delivery!
    nothing. check all the electric joints, starting with the computer brain
    on the front left fender insides.
     
    klh, May 23, 2006
    #6
  7. Paul Hosking

    James Sweet Guest


    Replace the engine wiring harness and check or replace the hall sensor
    in the distributor.
     
    James Sweet, May 24, 2006
    #7
  8. Paul Hosking

    Steve Guest

    To tell, a fuel pressure meter might help. Our US ford taurus would fail on
    and off like that for years, at last I broke down and spent the money for a
    dx, the shops said the fuel pump was going south slowly.

    To tell that the shop guy had a bunch of dx equipment hooked up and just
    drove it as his car for several days till it failed and he figured it out.

    I have no idea if the same thing is happening to the 760, but hey it might
    be!
     
    Steve, May 24, 2006
    #8
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