My 2000 Volvo S80 stalls

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SCOUT

My 2000 Volvo S80 stalls when I slow down. For Example, if I'm
driving at highway speeds and slow down because of traffic the rpms go
down and instead of stopping at ideal the car just stalls. This also
happens at stop signs and traffic lights- when I stop pushing the gas
the car stalls.

By way of background, I explained the problem to Volvo dealer but at
the time the car was dead so the Volvo dealer said that a code test
could not be performed because I need a new alternator and battery
which I had changed. But the problem with the stalling still occurs.
Down about $1,000.00 so far

I recently visited an AutoZone shop with an ASE Certified technician
and was told that the he reads nothing wrong with the codes and as
usual the problem did not occur while he was test driving the car.
Any suggestions?
 
SCOUT said:
My 2000 Volvo S80 stalls when I slow down. For Example, if I'm
driving at highway speeds and slow down because of traffic the rpms go
down and instead of stopping at ideal the car just stalls. This also
happens at stop signs and traffic lights- when I stop pushing the gas
the car stalls.

By way of background, I explained the problem to Volvo dealer but at
the time the car was dead so the Volvo dealer said that a code test
could not be performed because I need a new alternator and battery
which I had changed. But the problem with the stalling still occurs.
Down about $1,000.00 so far

I recently visited an AutoZone shop with an ASE Certified technician
and was told that the he reads nothing wrong with the codes and as
usual the problem did not occur while he was test driving the car.
Any suggestions?
Click to expand...

There's a common problem with the electronic throttle, which will requre
replacement and a software download to fix.
Also I've heard that a sticking torque convertor lockup can cause this.
Try shifting into neutral as you come to a stop.

--
Mike F.
Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
(But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)
 
Thanks Mike.

That is exactly how I drive put the car in neutral but I can't keep
that up. Any idea on cost to replace the electronic throttle in the US?
 
This happen to my 2001 S80. Needed to keep the gas pedal depress or the
engine would stall. Problem faulty signal inside the mass air flow sensor.
Replaced mass air flow sensor . Car now runs normal. Part number
8670263-6. Don't know the cost as this was covered under the warranty.
Bill
 
SCOUT said:
Thanks Mike.

That is exactly how I drive put the car in neutral but I can't keep
that up. Any idea on cost to replace the electronic throttle in the US?
Click to expand...
You did not say if your S-80 has the T6 engine or the 2.9 Motor but
rough estimate is as follows
1:] Electronic Throttle Module $550.00
2:] Gasket for the ETM $10.00
3:] Software for the ETM $30.00
4:] Labor 3 Hours @ whatever the labor rate is of the Volvo dealer you
have perform the repair
Glenn
Volvo Technician

--
"*-344-*Never Forgotten"
Is for the New York City Firemen who lost their lives on September 11,2001.
The official count is 343, but there was also a volunteer who lost his life
aiding in the initial rescue efforts. And I will never forget them as
long as I live,
nor should any American.
"Mow Green"
 
SCOUT said:
Thanks Mike.

That is exactly how I drive put the car in neutral but I can't keep
that up. Any idea on cost to replace the electronic throttle in the US?
Click to expand...

You kind of have to see how the engine reacts as you put it into
neutral. What happens is the 2 (redundant) potentiometers that report
the throttle position to the computer wear out, and the computer is not
sure where the throttle is. Putting it in neutral reduces the load on
the engine at idle and so puts the potentiometer into a new position
that is not worn out, both of which helps avoid stalls. Also if the
torque convertor lockup is sticking (which is very rare), it sidesteps
that problem. You just need to make sure it's the throttle body, as
opposed the the locked up torque convertor.

--
Mike F.
Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
(But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)
 
You kind of have to see how the engine reacts as you put it into
neutral. What happens is the 2 (redundant) potentiometers that report
the throttle position to the computer wear out, and the computer is not
sure where the throttle is. Putting it in neutral reduces the load on
the engine at idle and so puts the potentiometer into a new position
that is not worn out, both of which helps avoid stalls. Also if the
torque convertor lockup is sticking (which is very rare), it sidesteps
that problem. You just need to make sure it's the throttle body, as
opposed the the locked up torque convertor.
Click to expand...
Are the pots accessible enough to get Stabilant 22A (or the more dilute form
called "Tweak" available in stereo shops) into them? It is a pricey "block
polymer" that is conductive in thin films and insulating in thick films, and
lubricates the surface to reduce wear. It could prolong the inevitable... if
the pots are accessible.

Mike
 
Michael said:
Are the pots accessible enough to get Stabilant 22A (or the more dilute form
called "Tweak" available in stereo shops) into them? It is a pricey "block
polymer" that is conductive in thin films and insulating in thick films, and
lubricates the surface to reduce wear. It could prolong the inevitable... if
the pots are accessible.

Mike
Click to expand...

I don't know, yet. I have a dead ETM sitting on my workbench in the
garage, just waiting for some warmer weather. Not having the dreaded
ETM in my cars, I haven't been in too much of a hurry to rip that one
apart...

--
Mike F.
Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
(But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)
 
Problem was the Throttle Body.

Found code 130 A Air intake/ETM internalfault. Found throttle unit
faulty due to clogged/sludged oil trap & Flame box. Removed ETM &
intake manifold & flame box. Cleaned out sludge& Deposits from flame
trap & oil trap. Remount intake manifold & placed ETM. Download
software & reset code. 6.5 hours total Labor $622.12
Throttle Body $689.49
Gasket $3.26
Hose $4.43
Sealing Ring $7.81
ETM Reload $30.00

Total Parts $734.99
Engine Power Flush $99.90


TOTAL INVOICE $1,582.68
 
Holy Crapola!!

That's one mighty pricey trouble code!

Yikes, not looking forward to that one.

Sorry about your misfortune (Or loss of fortune in this case)
 
I'm stating to see the same problem, 2000 S80 T6.

I wrote above in another post..

I have 2000 S80, 90K miles. I am noticing a bit of idle problems, but in my
case the engine RPM goes to about 400, then back to 700 - almost stalling
the car. This happens every other day, once or twice. What I think is
happening is that the transmission is not disengaging all the way, or starts
engaging a little when the car is idling. This causes load on the idling
car, taking the RPM down a little, then the engine control sees the low rpm
and applies a bit more gas.. the transmission then releases and the rpm goes
up to about 900, then back down to 700. I changed the transmission fluid
about a year ago but did not flush the complete system.. which I will do
soon. Hope this fixes this small problem.

sc
 
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