New toVolvo S80 T6 owner New to forum.. need tips PLEASE...

[S80T6_P_T_M]

Hello All, I am new to Volvo as well as this site. I have experience with many American cars from old school to newer supercharged\turbo models (the only FWD I could stand) and this is my first foreign car, a 2002 Volvo s80 T6 with 181,0xx mi, very clean interior, and nice body other than a few door dings. Good news is there are service\maintenance records. Ill come out and say it, I researched this car before purchasing and there were a few people telling me they checked the car out and I should not get it due to a leak, specifically a Trans leak. I had an opportunity to go over this car with as much time as needed; I looked at it and drove the car looking for a leak. no constant leak other than the spill from sitting for a year which was about a half a quart. Despite all the bad things I have researched, I needed a challenge like this one to have a change of pace in my my car world. Besides that I started the negotiations at 1300 (with my uncle, it was his girlfriend’s old car) and wound up at $1000... It’s my car now... So here are my Questions on tips needed as I am looking for as many sources to get this S80 up to par and then try new things with possible good results:

1) Can someone with good knowledge on this car please tell me anything I should check, replace, test outside the norm\basics i.e. oil change, tune-up, radiator flush. Possible Trans flush/fluid-filter change.

2) My new S80 starts right up, but has a rough idle, seems to have a dead cylinder but will drive with decent power. I’m positive there’s more to the T6. So I researched the issue, call my best friend who is a master mechanic/diesel mechanic and tell him to hand over his snap on SOLUS scanner. So excited to use all the advanced features over a smaller less expensive scanner he told me he doesn’t know if it will scan a Volvo. I found out it was not upgraded with the European car software, but I was able to read the codes and live data and this is what I got for the codes.
P0108 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit High Input
P0104 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Intermittent
P0102 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Low Input
P0101 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0110 Intake Air Temperature Circuit Malfunction
Please correct me if I’m wrong, The P0108 seems to fit with the post I found where the MAP sensor is bad due to cheap design and the soldering could be cracked or damaged inside, so I should attempt to clean the connectors/the solder fix or find a replacement MAP sensor.??

P0-104-102-101 to me points to a dirty or malfunctioning MAF sensor, I’ve tested MAFs on fords, but I wouldn’t think it’s the same. My plan is to clean connectors, clean MAF elements and housing, test voltages input/output if good clear code and see where I am. Any tips??
P0110 I have not found an IAT sensor but I am thinking it is in reference to the sensor on the MAF... Any help is appreciated. I can’t wait to get my new toy on the road...I will post Pics of it now soon and my appearance progress pics...

 

[RaiderRomo34]

I see that this is an old post. but here it goes. these Volvos have a lot of issues, especially if you don't up keep them. the main problems on these cars can (I think) be avoided. suspension issues will depend on what roads you drive on. but those parts are fairly inexpensive, and easy to replace, like strut mounts, and bearings, lower control arms, and sway bar links. don't buy cheap sway bar links, because they can cause unwanted werid noises. vaccum hoses should constantly be checked and replaced if they look or are worn. oil changes are a must and, must be done more than normal ( do not use synthetic oil). Mas air flow sensor does go bad and cause a bunch of issue with these cars. when you replace this, you must disconnect battery cables for 20-30 min. and step on brake for 30 -40 seconds to drain all battery current from main computer. this will assure that your MAF sensor with have a clean slate when it starts to perform. it will run rough for about 5-10 min, then begin to level off. I spent about $2500.00 getting my car to finally run correctly. I replaced the oil trap, dropped the oil pan, had it professionally cleaned, and replaced all those seals in there, also replaced seals on the turbo return lines. lots of work, lots of money spent. replaced the turbo pipes on top that have some sort of sensor (heater) that burn the oil so it doesn't go through the turbo. I replaced all the spark plugs, oil filler cap (which usually leak), replaced gas cap, which also usually go bad. gas doors usually break at the plastic part. most stuff you can find on ebay, or europarts.com, ipdusa.com, and there are a few others. if you have any questions contact me at [email protected]