Poor quality bushings, or bad track rod?

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I have a 240 wagon, and I'm doing all 10 of my rear bushings. Today, I
had rubber bushings that I had ordered from FCP Groton pressed into my
Panhard rod and right trailing arm. Upon getting the rod back to my
garage, I accidently dropped it a foot or so. Imagine my surprise when
the bushing with the bigger hole popped partially out! When I held the
rod up to the light, I could see a 1/2mm or so gap in places between the
bushings and the inside bore of the rod ends. Tapping lightly on the
bushings with the plastic end of a screwdriver moved them in and out.
What's worst is that I could see light between one bushing's rubber and
its inner shell. Furthermore, when I tighten a bolt and nut across
either of the two bushings, I can spin it in the rod.

Are the bushings sold by FCP Groton just complete shite (as I suspect -
are they ScanTech, maybe?) or did the mechanic somehow screw up when
pressing them in and stretch out the rod ends? The one trailing arm
bushing that I've had done so far is fine, and flexes rather than
spinning in it's bore when the inner shell is turned using a bolt and
nut tightened across it.

TIA, -bosozoku (frustrated)
 
at said:
I have a 240 wagon, and I'm doing all 10 of my rear bushings. Today, I
had rubber bushings that I had ordered from FCP Groton pressed into my
Panhard rod and right trailing arm. Upon getting the rod back to my
garage, I accidently dropped it a foot or so. Imagine my surprise when
the bushing with the bigger hole popped partially out! When I held the
rod up to the light, I could see a 1/2mm or so gap in places between the
bushings and the inside bore of the rod ends. Tapping lightly on the
bushings with the plastic end of a screwdriver moved them in and out.
What's worst is that I could see light between one bushing's rubber and
its inner shell. Furthermore, when I tighten a bolt and nut across
either of the two bushings, I can spin it in the rod.

Are the bushings sold by FCP Groton just complete shite (as I suspect -
are they ScanTech, maybe?) or did the mechanic somehow screw up when
pressing them in and stretch out the rod ends? The one trailing arm
bushing that I've had done so far is fine, and flexes rather than
spinning in it's bore when the inner shell is turned using a bolt and
nut tightened across it.

TIA, -bosozoku (frustrated)
Click to expand...

I'd say poor quality bushings. It would be very hard to stretch out the
end of the panhard rod without distorting it.

--
Mike F.
Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

NOTE: new address!!
Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
(But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)
 
Are the bushings sold by FCP Groton just complete shite (as I suspect -
are they ScanTech, maybe?) or did the mechanic somehow screw up when
pressing them in and stretch out the rod ends? The one trailing arm
bushing that I've had done so far is fine, and flexes rather than
spinning in it's bore when the inner shell is turned using a bolt and
nut tightened across it.
Click to expand...

It depends on which ones you bought. Anything branded ScanTech or MTC is
almost guaranteed to be crap. If it weren't raining I'd go out and check
the (MTC) transmission mount that I installed about 1000 miles ago... and
it already feels like it's toasted.

FCP usually sells three types of bushings: cheap knockoffs (ScanTech,
MTC), OEM, and polyurethane replacement (SuperPro, etc). The cheap
knockoffs are the ones to avoid. Check out Dave Shannon's page for an
example of just how short lived the cheap RTA bushings are.
 
Amazing enough, I too have replaced the pan hard rod (track rod) bushing as
well as all other bushings in the read end of my 1996 240 wagon purchased
from FP Groton. The passenger side trackrod lasted about 5 months and
needed replacement again. My mechanic replaced it with a volvo oem part
and once again, after 6 months it needs replaced again.
I had a different mechanic look at it this time but couldn't find any
other reason why it would be wearing out so soon.
I'm not sure if anyone will read this but if you do are there any reason
that you could think of?
THanks in advance.
 
Have your mechanics check the trailing arm bushings if they are bad they
will cause the track rod bushings to fail prematurely

--
"*-344-*Never Forgotten"
Is for the New York City fireman who lost their lives on September 11,2001.
The official count is 343, but there was also a volunteer who lost his life
aiding in the initial rescue efforts. And I will never forget them as long
as I live,
nor should any American.
"Mow Green"
 
G said:
Have your mechanics check the trailing arm bushings if they are bad they
will cause the track rod bushings to fail prematurely
Click to expand...

Also, if the bolt for any suspension part is tightened up on the hoist,
with the suspension at full droop, the bushings will be stressed in the
normal position. The final tightening needs to be done on a wheel lift
hoist, so the suspension is sitting in the normal position.

--
Mike F.
Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

NOTE: new address!!
Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
(But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)
 
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