Power Window question

  • Thread starter Thread starter Tom Henderson
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Tom Henderson

The drivers window on my 1997 850 is extremely slow, and sometimes has to
be helped for the first 2 inches on the way down. It's fine the rest of the
way, and works better on the way up, though the last 2 inches is still
slow. Is this a window motor problem, or is it just some sort of mechanical
issue like a part that needs lube?
 
Tom Henderson said:
The drivers window on my 1997 850 is extremely slow, and sometimes has to
be helped for the first 2 inches on the way down. It's fine the rest of the
way, and works better on the way up, though the last 2 inches is still
slow. Is this a window motor problem, or is it just some sort of mechanical
issue like a part that needs lube?

Lubing the power window mechnanics should be done as regular service.
Problem is nobody actually does it, because you need to remove the
doorpanel.

/Patrik
 
[email protected] (Patrik) wrote in
Lubing the power window mechnanics should be done as regular service.
Problem is nobody actually does it, because you need to remove the
doorpanel.

/Patrik

So you're saying thatit's likely the mechanical part of the system, not
the motor?
 
Tom said:
The drivers window on my 1997 850 is extremely slow, and sometimes has to
be helped for the first 2 inches on the way down. It's fine the rest of the
way, and works better on the way up, though the last 2 inches is still
slow. Is this a window motor problem, or is it just some sort of mechanical
issue like a part that needs lube?

The window is so close to the back of the door, there's no room for the
track where the lock mechanism is. So there's a separate lower track,
with it's own rubber/felt slider. These never line up 100% perfectly,
and the felt part wears off the rubber, and causes binding. If you're
really energetic, you can swap those short rubber pieces from left door
to right, and use the unworn side. (You'll see what I mean if you do
this.) If you're less energetic you can use some automotive spray
silicone on the track, but you'll have to do that on an ongoing basis.
 
The window is so close to the back of the door, there's no room for the
track where the lock mechanism is. So there's a separate lower track,
with it's own rubber/felt slider. These never line up 100% perfectly,
and the felt part wears off the rubber, and causes binding. If you're
really energetic, you can swap those short rubber pieces from left door
to right, and use the unworn side. (You'll see what I mean if you do
this.) If you're less energetic you can use some automotive spray
silicone on the track, but you'll have to do that on an ongoing basis.

I've used a silicone spray on the tracks of my
front windows (V40). It was a great help and there
was no need to repeat this until now (it's been 2
years now).
Perhaps Tom never has to repeat the lubrication
again...? (even for his rear windows).

R.
 
The window is so close to the back of the door, there's no room for the
track where the lock mechanism is. So there's a separate lower track,
with it's own rubber/felt slider. These never line up 100% perfectly,
and the felt part wears off the rubber, and causes binding. If you're
really energetic, you can swap those short rubber pieces from left door
to right, and use the unworn side. (You'll see what I mean if you do
this.) If you're less energetic you can use some automotive spray
silicone on the track, but you'll have to do that on an ongoing basis.

I've used a silicone spray on the tracks of my
front windows (V40). It was a great help and there
was no need to repeat this until now (it's been 2
years now).
Perhaps Tom never has to repeat the lubrication
again...? (even for his rear windows).

R.
 
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