Recently acquired 1989 740/B230E rough starting

[Mungo \two sheds\ Toadfoot]

Hi all,

Is there a common fault which causes rough cold starting which is
quickly cured by a couple of blips on the throttle?

The car conked out on a run recently due to the black hose just beside (part
of?) the auxiliary air valve disconnecting itself, so I thought I'd better
find out what the AAV actually is - could it possibly be this at fault?
Dirty injector(s)? Worth putting a drop of injector cleaner through it?

Thanks,

Si

 

[Andy]

On a 16 year old car, even one well maintained where do you start on bits
that simply get old. Presumabley it has been well serviced?

What is the ignition & injection system? Dont know where you are Mungo. If
the UK your beastie would have been on the cusp of going from the manual
K-jet mechanical injection system to the more sophisticated electronic
injection with lambda sond et-al. if the latter you will have an OBD outlet
to check for error codes which may be the best place to start.

If K-jet then (and some of this would relate to post k-jet era):

Do the easiest and cheapest bits first.

My first Q would be to ask if the Rotor arm, distributor cap plug and king
leads have ever been changed,. If not then the sooner the better cos the
chances are the posts in the distrib cap are worn to buggers,. Next make
sure you are running Bosch/volvo plugs. Check the colour to make sure
engine is is set up ok. I dont know why but the B200e and b230e engines in
particular do not seem to like NGK or Champeen plugs. Bosh plugs rule ok
for these engines.

After that a can of good injector cleaner into 1/4 tank of juice and take
for a blast.

By the time we had done this on ours we were cooking, now sadly we have
another gremlin of the zero to 60mph acceleration in an eternity (18 seconds
actually).

Andy

 

[Mungo \two sheds\ Toadfoot]

On a 16 year old car, even one well maintained where do you start on
bits that simply get old.

Yes. I just wondered if there was something along these lines that went
wrong with all 740s, like the headlinings and gauges.

Presumabley it has been well serviced?

It has been serviced religiously. Also, the previous owner told me that he
had had a problem with the engine cutting out so pretty much everything to
do with the ignition has been renewed - distributor, ignition unit...I'm not
100% sure about the leads (King/HT) though because the caps at least do look
quite old.

What is the ignition & injection system?

I think it's the "continuous injection system".

Dont know where you are

Mungo. If the UK your beastie would have been on the cusp of going
from the manual K-jet mechanical injection system to the more
sophisticated electronic injection with lambda sond et-al. if the
latter you will have an OBD outlet to check for error codes which may
be the best place to start.

My manual says that the contiuous injection system is well-proven with
little to go wring so I assume it's older than the lambda sond job.

If K-jet then (and some of this would relate to post k-jet era):

Do the easiest and cheapest bits first.

My first Q would be to ask if the Rotor arm, distributor cap plug and
king leads have ever been changed,. If not then the sooner the
better cos the chances are the posts in the distrib cap are worn to
buggers,.

I will check to make sure they're new.

Next make sure you are running Bosch/volvo plugs. Check

the colour to make sure engine is is set up ok.

Colour looks ok but they are Champion plugs, if I remember rightly.
Something else to check

I dont know why but
the B200e and b230e engines in particular do not seem to like NGK or
Champeen plugs. Bosh plugs rule ok for these engines.

After that a can of good injector cleaner into 1/4 tank of juice and
take for a blast.

Did that today.

By the time we had done this on ours we were cooking, now sadly we
have another gremlin of the zero to 60mph acceleration in an eternity
(18 seconds actually).

That's not good. I hope you find the reason for it soon!

Si

 

[Mungo \two sheds\ Toadfoot]

Dont know where you are
Mungo.

I still didn't say! Yes, UK.

Si

 

[Andy]

King lead should be checked. They have been known to rub near near the
bulkhead and give an intermittant short. Wait until it gets dark, fire up
car and have a squiz. I would have thought the king lead would have been
replaced when others replaced but you never know. If it looks different or
a bit old then play safe and change.

The Ovlov garage where our 740 has been serviced have always maintained (as
has the 740 mechanic who has always done the servicing) that Champion and
NGK plugs cause heaps of problems on the 740. They have never been able to
tell me why but have not I don't believe been trying to punt Volvo/Bosch
plugs at a premium price. I can't see why it should make a difference but
maybe somebody else has come across this.

Interested if you noticed any difference after the fuel injector cleaner. I
have been told by Volvo to do that to our 740 to help find/cure our poor
accelleration issue - they seem to swear by the stuff but I have always been
dubious. Will keep you posted on this prob.

Lying in bed It occured to me that another thing that needs checking early
on is the throttle housing and also the big black idle adjusting screw that
sits under the inlet manifold (you can't miss it it has a knurled thumb
screw and is about 1/2 inch in dia.

The throttle housing and butterfly valve just get a bit gummed up and need
cleaning. By the sound of things you will not have to worry about any Air
Mass Meters like on the post 90 models here with Lambda Sond.

The big black screwey thing gets a a coating of shitty carbon on it.
Unscrew and pull out, it may be stiff and not want to pull out even when you
have finished unscrewing, there is an 'O' ring holding it tight, give it a
tug. When you put back get enginw warm and use to adjust tickover to what
you are comfortable with at arounf 850rpm.

Andy

 

[Andy]

Whilst I had not noticed it causing rough cold starting on our similarly
specked Ovlov we have had issues with leakng injector seals which caused an
uneven tickover. We have had to replace twice now in 16 years, the rubber
(or whatever they are made of) goes hard and lets a smidgeon of air in. To
check spray WD40 over each of the injector bases and if the tickover
suddenly appears smoother then get replacing. Simple to do but be careful
of little washers that easily fall off when you remove. Only cost a couple
of quids.

Andy

 

[Mungo \two sheds\ Toadfoot]

King lead should be checked. They have been known to rub near near
the bulkhead and give an intermittant short. Wait until it gets
dark, fire up car and have a squiz. I would have thought the king
lead would have been replaced when others replaced but you never
know. If it looks different or a bit old then play safe and change.

Thanks again for the reply. I think I've discovered the source of my
problem: reading through the Haynes manual I discovered a section on the
starting procedure and it seems I am supposed to step on the accelerator
once before starting the car to set the choke. having done this it starts
properly first time, every time.

I also own a newer car which likes starting without any touch of the
accelerator whatsoever so I'd got used to this.

Fingers crossed, it's working!

Si

 

[Mungo \two sheds\ Toadfoot]

Whilst I had not noticed it causing rough cold starting on our
similarly specked Ovlov we have had issues with leakng injector seals
which caused an uneven tickover. We have had to replace twice now in
16 years, the rubber (or whatever they are made of) goes hard and
lets a smidgeon of air in. To check spray WD40 over each of the
injector bases and if the tickover suddenly appears smoother then get
replacing. Simple to do but be careful of little washers that easily
fall off when you remove. Only cost a couple of quids.

Thanks. I'm noting all these things for future reference with the hope that
I'll never need them.

Si

 

[Mungo \two sheds\ Toadfoot]

Thanks again for the reply. I think I've discovered the source of my
problem: reading through the Haynes manual I discovered a section on
the starting procedure and it seems I am supposed to step on the
accelerator once before starting the car to set the choke. having
done this it starts properly first time, every time.

......Although the user's handbook says this is not necessary. Whatever, it
works.

Si

 

[Tim..]

Thanks again for the reply. I think I've discovered the source of my
problem: reading through the Haynes manual I discovered a section on the
starting procedure and it seems I am supposed to step on the accelerator
once before starting the car to set the choke. having done this it starts
properly first time, every time.

I also own a newer car which likes starting without any touch of the
accelerator whatsoever so I'd got used to this.

If you definately have a NON carbed B200 / B230, then pressing the pedal
before cold start should not make the blindest bit of difference to start
performance, as fuel injection does not have a choke, nor does it have a
mechanical fast idle linkage like a carb does.

Tim..

 

[Mungo \two sheds\ Toadfoot]

If you definately have a NON carbed B200 / B230, then pressing the
pedal before cold start should not make the blindest bit of
difference to start performance, as fuel injection does not have a
choke, nor does it have a mechanical fast idle linkage like a carb
does.

This is what I thunked, but it does make all the difference to the starting.
I'm going to have to have a closer look at it tomorrow - I haven't had time
recently. It's definitely the B230E engine but I don't know if they had
carbs, injection, or either.

Si

 

[Peter K L Milnes]

Injection is the order of the day, without Lambda Sond and without
catalyser. It does have a start injector however.

All the best, Peter.

 

[Randy G.]

This is what I thunked, but it does make all the difference to the starting.
I'm going to have to have a closer look at it tomorrow - I haven't had time
recently. It's definitely the B230E engine but I don't know if they had
carbs, injection, or either.

If that is the case, then you may have a dirty and sticking throttle
body butterfly or linkage that is holding the throttle open partially
making it hard to start. When you depress and release the throttle it
allows the butterfly to snap back into place.

A warped throttle body could do the same sort of thing- allowing the
throttle to set in one position when the car was hot and not be
correctly placed when the car gets cold from sitting overnight (this
one is a stretch becasue the throttle body doesn't get that warm).

Adjust the throttle stop screw, idle adjustment, and throttle linkage
and cable as appropriate for your model and be sure tha tthe cable and
related parts are working smoothly. When I was going through mine I
found that the cable was incorrectly adjusted and only allowed about
85-90% throttle! It could be that yours is working the other way and
holding the throttle open a bit...


__ __
Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
\__/olvos
'90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate
"Shelby" & "Kate"

 

[Randy G.]

This is what I thunked, but it does make all the difference to the starting.
I'm going to have to have a closer look at it tomorrow - I haven't had time
recently. It's definitely the B230E engine but I don't know if they had
carbs, injection, or either.

....and one more thing- check the function and adjustment of the
throttle position switch.
__ __
Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
\__/olvos
'90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate
"Shelby" & "Kate"

 

[Michael Pardee]

If you definately have a NON carbed B200 / B230, then pressing the pedal
before cold start should not make the blindest bit of difference to start
performance, as fuel injection does not have a choke, nor does it have a
mechanical fast idle linkage like a carb does.

Tim..

My understanding is that some (many? few?) ECUs treat the pedal depression
before starting the way a carb does, enrichening the mixture at the driver's
request. I believe most or all also treat full throttle depression during
starting as a desire to air out a flooded intake and will reduce the
injected fuel in response.

Mike

 

[Andy]

Most info you will ever need is contained in either the VolvoSpy or
Volvoclub UK websites.

http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/index.php and this is the link to the 700 FAQ's
http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/FAQSummary1.shtml
Somewhere in there is info on changing the injector seals, cleaning the
throttle housing etc.

http://www.volvospy.com/

The Brickboard is also good but I think the FAQ's are now incorporated
within VolvoclubUK site.
http://www.brickboard.com/
http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/

Volvospeed is quite good for 850/V70/V40 ilks
http://www.volvospeed.com/volvo_performance.php

Hope U find useful

Andy

 

[Tim..]

My understanding is that some (many? few?) ECUs treat the pedal depression
before starting the way a carb does, enrichening the mixture at the driver's
request. I believe most or all also treat full throttle depression during
starting as a desire to air out a flooded intake and will reduce the
injected fuel in response.

No pedal depression pre-start wont make any difference to what the ECU does.
All it reads is pedal position, coolant / air temperatures, rpm and then
reads a suitable injector duration from its look up tables.

On one or two earlier fuel injected Toyota's and Nissans there was a
wax-stat for additonal fast idle enhancement which did require pedal
movement to set them, but was not connected to the ecu and fuelling amounts
in any way.

Tim..

 

[Tim..]

Injection is the order of the day, without Lambda Sond and without
catalyser. It does have a start injector however.

^^^^^^^^^
yes, thermo time switch controlled. Doesnt function above ~3deg's C anyways
though.


Tim..

 

[Mungo \two sheds\ Toadfoot]

If that is the case, then you may have a dirty and sticking throttle
body butterfly or linkage that is holding the throttle open partially
making it hard to start. When you depress and release the throttle it
allows the butterfly to snap back into place.

Ah yes, that could be it. I'll check everything when I get time. It does
idle a bit fast when it's hot so that could explain that too, rather than
the idle speed being set too fast.

Thanks,

Si

 

[Mungo \two sheds\ Toadfoot]

Most info you will ever need is contained in either the VolvoSpy or
Volvoclub UK websites.

All saved for future reference - many thanks.

Si